5/8 static drop parts list – comments/suggestions please

[kitsbeach]

Here is my list and a few questions I have. Going for a 5/8 static drop.

I'm currently running a 6cyl with three-on-the-tree but I want to make it handle and one day will do a LSx swap so I might go a little overboard here in preparation for later.

Planning on running 15” steelies so I am limited to smaller brakes.

I want to buy everything ahead of time to minimize downtime, so if there is anything I have missed please let me know.



1. CPP Modular 2” Drop Spindles

2. 3” drop springs (any brand?)

3. Tubular control arms (CPP?). I suppose I only need the uppers to get the
improved adjustments (or is it the lowers?) but I’ll probably do both for the looks.

4. 12” disk brakes (will these fit in my 15” steelies? Is this as large as I can go?). Do people usually buy kits from CPP or somewhere, or just buy stock stuff from regular auto suppliers.? What little pieces/kit will I need to have everything?

5. Power brake booster (which one?). Thinking I’ll go fairly stock right now for disk/drum combo. I will likely upgrade to hydroboost when I do the LS swap.

6. Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...1179/overview/

7. Stock-style master cylinder (which bore size for disk/drum?)

8. New front brake lines (where to buy?)

9. Front sway bar (any brand?). Want to match with nolimit rear bar.

10. Front shock relocate brackets?

11. Shocks - looking for good/great handling at medium price (what brand and what length/part number.?)


I’m choosing modular drop spindles because they keep the wheels tucked in better and should look more 1967-like. They may also allow a little more clearance with my 15” rims (don’t know if this is true).

I want Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve because it sounds like the stock replacement ones are junk and I only want to do this job once. Will I need custom brake lines for it.? Or should I plan on bending some lines?

Do I need new brake lines 1972-style (in front of crossmember) instead of my 1967-style (behind crossmember).?

Can I buy normal length front shocks if I use a relocate bracket.?

If I buy new control arms to go with modular spindles should I specify newer ball joints or stay ’67 throughout.?

On the rear I want an 8” drop. Planning to use 2” blocks and 6” lowering springs along with No Limit panhard, sway bar and shock relocate kit. Matching shocks to front of truck. And a c-notch of course.

If I have missed anything I’d appreciate knowing about it. I want to have all the parts in hand before I start tearing the truck apart because I like to keep the downtime to a minimum.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

Have you considered pancaking your crossmember for a 1.5 inch drop, and much need ground clearance?

While at it you could change your a arm relationship by moving the lower arm forward 1 inch to get better camber gain.

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by Ziegelsteinfaust

Have you considered pancaking your crossmember for a 1.5 inch drop, and much need ground clearance?

While at it you could change your a arm relationship by moving the lower arm forward 1 inch to get better camber gain.

I'd like some clearance..!! I have another low low car and I'd like a bit more clearance with this one so I can drive it harder without hitting the ground.

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by Ziegelsteinfaust

Have you considered pancaking your crossmember for a 1.5 inch drop, and much need ground clearance?

While at it you could change your a arm relationship by moving the lower arm forward 1 inch to get better camber gain.

Will the pancaked crossmember mean mods to my z-bar clutch linkage or my steering..?

I was seriously looking at doing a nolimit dropmember or a porterbuilt but I want to keep driving my 6cyl for a while and didn't want to do a bunch of mods.

(I don't mind mods that will carryover to my LS swap but I don't feel like doing a lot of extra work just to keep my 6cyl running. My priority right now is to get it low and keep driving it. Probably won't get around to the LS swap until winter 2015/2016)

[SCOTI]

Pancaking/sectioning the x-member can provide drop w/o changing the OE motor location. The easiset way is taking the section out across the entire x-member which allows using the OE MM towers & such. The alternative is simply notching out the x-member directly below the frame rails, dropping the section down further, & welding/boxing it back in. This method will require modifying the MM towers which could change things if not done w/moderate precision. Either way will possibly require modifying the upper arm or changing to different steering shaft linkage as there can be interference @ the front of the a-arm (definitely w/aftermarket arms).

1,2,3) The modular spindles are a good choice as they're adaptable to bigger brakes in the future. Get BJ's recommended for the spindles. For springs I would do Hotchkis or Moog for a BBC & trim them down. The CPP arms don't do much of anything so they're basically an added expense. Hotchkis arms would yield some geometry improvements & would prob be the better choice (especially if utilized w/their springs & shock combo). If Hotchkis parts are too much for the budget (they are very high priced IMO), stick w/OE arms & do the caster mod discussed in the 'Make It Handle Thread').

4) 12" disc brakes work fine w/15" wheels built for disc brakes. OE 5-lug wheels were most likely on a disc brake truck. Drum brake truck wheels will not clear.

5,6,7,8) Factory replacement 71-72 disc brake stuff would work fine. CPP has a kit as well. The adj prop valve is a good idea especially if 4whl discs are in the future. New brake lines will be necessary (although there might even be a kit that caters to not having to replace them).

9) OE 3/4 & 1-ton 1.25" GM truck/Suburban front sway bars have been working for years w/o issue & are cheap. Or, Bell Tech offers a big bar @ a decent price through Summit Racing.

9,10) Front shock relocation brackets are a good idea. You want to keep the shock stroke as long as possible for best ride quality. Bilstein makes a great quality shock as well as QA1 or Ride Techs brands (the latter choices being adjustable too as upgrades).

One-stop shopping, for a packaged assembly that flat out works, I would do Hotchkis hands down over CPP if it's within the budget. Otherwise stick w/OE arms & educate yourself.

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Pancaking/sectioning the x-member can provide drop w/o changing the OE motor location. The easiset way is taking the section out across the entire x-member which allows using the OE MM towers & such. The alternative is simply notching out the x-member directly below the frame rails, dropping the section down further, & welding/boxing it back in. This method will require modifying the MM towers which could change things if not done w/moderate precision. Either way will possibly require modifying the upper arm or changing to different steering shaft linkage as there can be interference @ the front of the a-arm (definitely w/aftermarket arms).

1,2,3) The modular spindles are a good choice as they're adaptable to bigger brakes in the future. Get BJ's recommended for the spindles. For springs I would do Hotchkis or Moog for a BBC & trim them down. The CPP arms don't do much of anything so they're basically an added expense. Hotchkis arms would yield some geometry improvements & would prob be the better choice (especially if utilized w/their springs & shock combo). If Hotchkis parts are too much for the budget (they are very high priced IMO), stick w/OE arms & do the caster mod discussed in the 'Make It Handle Thread').

4) 12" disc brakes work fine w/15" wheels built for disc brakes. OE 5-lug wheels were most likely on a disc brake truck. Drum brake truck wheels will not clear.

5,6,7,8) Factory replacement 71-72 disc brake stuff would work fine. CPP has a kit as well. The adj prop valve is a good idea especially if 4whl discs are in the future. New brake lines will be necessary (although there might even be a kit that caters to not having to replace them).

9) OE 3/4 & 1-ton 1.25" GM truck/Suburban front sway bars have been working for years w/o issue & are cheap. Or, Bell Tech offers a big bar @ a decent price through Summit Racing.

9,10) Front shock relocation brackets are a good idea. You want to keep the shock stroke as long as possible for best ride quality. Bilstein makes a great quality shock as well as QA1 or Ride Techs brands (the latter choices being adjustable too as upgrades).

One-stop shopping, for a packaged assembly that flat out works, I would do Hotchkis hands down over CPP if it's within the budget. Otherwise stick w/OE arms & educate yourself.

Hey SCOTI thank you for your response. Exactly the type of info I was looking for.

I was under the impression that CCP control arms gave us the caster improvement. If they don't then I will scratch them off the list or look for a better alternative.

I have new wheel vintiques 62 series, so they will fit the disk brakes. I actually tried to buy used but they are so rare now and rusty that I ended up doing a lot of driving and craigslist searching with no luck (have one drum brake style rim).

And I'm thinking the sectioned crossmember is just too much work right now.

[kitsbeach]

Hey SCOTI it looks like the CPP arms do add some caster. Here is what they say on their website:

Our Totally Tubular™ Control Arm sets are designed to add 5° of caster while providing full wheel travel and minimal friction possible.

[kitsbeach]

I'm still not sure of a few things:

1. if people buy front shock relocate brackets and what shocks to buy for a 3" drop (3" coil and 2" modular spindle).?

2. what master cylinder bore size do people suggest for disk/drum.?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

Hey SCOTI it looks like the CPP arms do add some caster. Here is what they say on their website:

Yes & no. Yes the 5° is there but appears to be done the same way the caster mod is done w/OE arms by relocating the shaft forward & not a design feature of the actual arms shape. Look where the coil spring seats in the lower arm. The only reason the spring would be offset that much is the arm is moved forward which is visible @ the shaft.

Not saying they're not an upgrade, I just don't think they're that much better vs the cost....

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Yes & no. Yes the 5° is there but appears to be done the same way the caster mod is done w/OE arms by relocating the shaft forward & not a design feature of the actual arms shape. Look where the coil spring seats in the lower arm. The only reason the spring would be offset that much is the arm is moved forward which is visible @ the shaft.

Not saying they're not an upgrade, I just don't think they're that much better vs the cost....

I see what you mean...but the hotchkis arms are way too pricey..!!

So I guess the choice (for me) is modded stock arms, CPP or nothing.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

I see what you mean...but the hotchkis arms are way too pricey..!!

So I guess the choice (for me) is modded stock arms, CPP or nothing.

Porterbuilt also makes a-arms for bagged or static dropped trucks.
Stock, narrowed, widened, and their "Forward Series".
Just about anything you need.
(C10, C20, and C30)
Give them a call.
www.pbfab.com

They are also a dealer for drop spindles and brake components.

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Porterbuilt also makes a-arms for bagged or static dropped trucks.
Stock, narrowed, widened, and their "Forward Series".
Just about anything you need.
(C10, C20, and C30)
Give them a call.
www.pbfab.com

They are also a dealer for drop spindles and brake components.

Thanks Keith, that is good to know. I go to porterbuilt's website all the time but find it hard to find the individual pieces. Phone is probably best.

Do you have any ideas about which front shocks to run.? I thought I saw someone using relocation brackets but maybe there is no advantage.? A 3" drop coil means less travel so a 3" shorter shock is probably all I need.?

And do you have any opinion on coils.? Cheaper the better.? Or are some better than others for the money.?

[lolife99]

3" drop coil = 3" shorter shock of you are using the stock upper mount.
I thought the front upper shock "relocation" bracket allowed the use of a stock shock, since it places the mounting point farther apart.
Porterbuilt sells these too and matching shocks.
I use Belltech or McGaughys or Western Chassis or ECE for drop coils.

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Porterbuilt also makes a-arms for bagged or static dropped trucks.
Stock, narrowed, widened, and their "Forward Series".
Just about anything you need.
(C10, C20, and C30)
Give them a call.
www.pbfab.com

They are also a dealer for drop spindles and brake components.

Keith I went to the site and found them. I think for my fairly stock looking '67 I'd go for the 1" forwards but no narrowing. I like where my wheels sit now in terms of track width.

Do the 1" forwards provide the castor improvements that SCOTI is talking about.? That is, do they qualify for my "make it handle" requirement.?

And one (or two) more questions: Is there any point in upgrading to the 73-87 ball joints since I'd be replacing both the spindles and the A-arms.? Are they truly better than the '67 versions.?

And maybe coilovers from PB are worth it at $275 per corner less the $49 they charge for coil spring arms. That takes it down to $225 per corner vs $100-125 for coils and shocks. Any comments on that.? Coilovers would give a bit of fine adjustment.

Any and all advice is appreciated...

[C10_ustacould]

My 2¢...
1. CPP Modular 2” Drop Spindles
Good choice!
2. 3” drop springs (any brand?)
I like Early Classic Enterprises (ECE)springs as they are thicker and therefore give a more controlled feel, CPP are “spongy” in my opinion.
3. Tubular control arms (CPP?).
I suppose I only need the uppers to get the improved adjustments (or is it the lowers?) but I’ll probably do both for the looks. CPP are fine but I would buy Porterbuilt (PB) “Forward” arms; they center the wheel in the opening as well as correcting the geometry. You can just buy lowers if you want to save some cash.
4. 12” disk brakes (will these fit in my 15” steelies? Is this as large as I can go?). Do people usually buy kits from CPP or somewhere, or just buy stock stuff from regular auto suppliers.? What little pieces/kit will I need to have everything?
You can buy the rotors and calipers from your local part store (I asked for ’73 Chevy parts). These will work with your 15” wheels. You can get “conversion” brake hoses (ECE part #03-6480) that connect your factory hard lines to the disc brake calipers.

5. Power brake booster (which one?). Thinking I’ll go fairly stock right now for disk/drum combo. I will likely upgrade to hydroboost when I do the LS swap.
The CPP disc/drum booster/master kit (part #6772BB2) will work fine.
6. Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...1179/overview/
Nice piece if you want to spend the money.
7. Stock-style master cylinder (which bore size for disk/drum?)
Answered in #5.
8. New front brake lines (where to buy?)
My experience says build them to fit.
9. Front sway bar (any brand?). Want to match with nolimit rear bar.
Addco makes on to work with the PB forward arms.
10. Front shock relocate brackets?
Not necessary in my opinion but PB makes them if you want them.
11. Shocks - looking for good/great handling at medium price (what brand and what length/part number.?) Here is where you can greatly enhance your handling, spend the money on GOOD shocks. I would suggest RideTech HQ series single adjustable units. You can adjust the rebound to fit your driving style. The tough part is I imagine they are over $700 for a complete set.

I’m choosing modular drop spindles because they keep the wheels tucked in better and should look more 1967-like. They may also allow a little more clearance with my 15” rims (don’t know if this is true).
Makes sense to me.

I want Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve because it sounds like the stock replacement ones are junk and I only want to do this job once. Will I need custom brake lines for it.? Or should I plan on bending some lines?
I’d plan on bending some, the aftermarket lines I have encountered where not worth the money because they didn’t fit.

Do I need new brake lines 1972-style (in front of crossmember) instead of my 1967-style (behind crossmember).?
ECE conversion hoses will work with your existing hard lines.

Can I buy normal length front shocks if I use a relocate bracket.?
Call RideTech, they will hook you up. I think member crawdadfox is a dealer and may be able to help you with these.

If I buy new control arms to go with modular spindles should I specify newer ball joints or stay ’67 throughout.?
I’d stay ’63-’70 ball joints, if not you’d have to change many other steering and suspension parts.

On the rear I want an 8” drop. Planning to use 2” blocks and 6” lowering springs along with No Limit panhard, sway bar and shock relocate kit. Matching shocks to front of truck. And a c-notch of course.
Seems reasonable to me.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

Keith I went to the site and found them. I think for my fairly stock looking '67 I'd go for the 1" forwards but no narrowing. I like where my wheels sit now in terms of track width.

Do the 1" forwards provide the castor improvements that SCOTI is talking about.? That is, do they qualify for my "make it handle" requirement.?

And one (or two) more questions: Is there any point in upgrading to the 73-87 ball joints since I'd be replacing both the spindles and the A-arms.? Are they truly better than the '67 versions.?

And maybe coilovers from PB are worth it at $275 per corner less the $49 they charge for coil spring arms. That takes it down to $225 per corner vs $100-125 for coils and shocks. Any comments on that.? Coilovers would give a bit of fine adjustment.

Any and all advice is appreciated...

I suggest you call Porterbuilt and talk to Dave.
Personally I see no reason to change to the 73-87 stuff.

[C10_ustacould]

Here is a static 5/7 drop set up I've been wanting to see someone build.

Front
Porterbuilt Upper and lower control Arms - 1’ forward for coil spring ($1098)
CPP Modular Spindles – 2” drop ($299)
ECE Front Drop Coils – 3” drop ($114)
CPP Tie Rod Adjusters ($69)
ADDCO Sway Bar ($249)
RideTech HQ Series single adjustable front shocks ($350)

Rear
Porterbuilt Stage 2 deluxe for static drop:
Porterbuilt Trailing Arm Crossmember ($249)
Porterbuilt trailing arms with spring mounts (1” drop built in) ($499)
ECE Rear Drop Spring – 6” drop ($114)
Porterbuilt adjustable rack bar ($199)
Porterbuilt C-notch ($279)
Porterbuilt Upper/Lower shock mounts ($200) (need to check with PB on this cost)
RideTech HQ Series single adjustable rear shocks ($350)
Rear Sway Bar - TBD not available from PB but lets say it costs ($250)

Total Cost around $4319 (plus shipping)

I think this would be a fantastic street truck set up. The shocks would go a long way toward tailoring the ride quality and performance and the other parts would partener to make the truck handle very well. Wouild love to see someone do this.

[smbrouss70]

Buck, ECE doesn't make a 3" drop spring.

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by smbrouss70

Buck, ECE doesn't make a 3" drop spring.

They do if you own a cut off wheel...

[smbrouss70]

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by Bucks68

My 2¢...
1. CPP Modular 2” Drop Spindles
Good choice!
2. 3” drop springs (any brand?)
I like Early Classic Enterprises (ECE)springs as they are thicker and therefore give a more controlled feel, CPP are “spongy” in my opinion.
3. Tubular control arms (CPP?).
I suppose I only need the uppers to get the improved adjustments (or is it the lowers?) but I’ll probably do both for the looks. CPP are fine but I would buy Porterbuilt (PB) “Forward” arms; they center the wheel in the opening as well as correcting the geometry. You can just buy lowers if you want to save some cash.
4. 12” disk brakes (will these fit in my 15” steelies? Is this as large as I can go?). Do people usually buy kits from CPP or somewhere, or just buy stock stuff from regular auto suppliers.? What little pieces/kit will I need to have everything?
You can buy the rotors and calipers from your local part store (I asked for ’73 Chevy parts). These will work with your 15” wheels. You can get “conversion” brake hoses (ECE part #03-6480) that connect your factory hard lines to the disc brake calipers.

5. Power brake booster (which one?). Thinking I’ll go fairly stock right now for disk/drum combo. I will likely upgrade to hydroboost when I do the LS swap.
The CPP disc/drum booster/master kit (part #6772BB2) will work fine.
6. Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve http://www.summitracing.com/int/part...1179/overview/
Nice piece if you want to spend the money.
7. Stock-style master cylinder (which bore size for disk/drum?)
Answered in #5.
8. New front brake lines (where to buy?)
My experience says build them to fit.
9. Front sway bar (any brand?). Want to match with nolimit rear bar.
Addco makes on to work with the PB forward arms.
10. Front shock relocate brackets?
Not necessary in my opinion but PB makes them if you want them.
11. Shocks - looking for good/great handling at medium price (what brand and what length/part number.?) Here is where you can greatly enhance your handling, spend the money on GOOD shocks. I would suggest RideTech HQ series single adjustable units. You can adjust the rebound to fit your driving style. The tough part is I imagine they are over $700 for a complete set.

I’m choosing modular drop spindles because they keep the wheels tucked in better and should look more 1967-like. They may also allow a little more clearance with my 15” rims (don’t know if this is true).
Makes sense to me.

I want Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve because it sounds like the stock replacement ones are junk and I only want to do this job once. Will I need custom brake lines for it.? Or should I plan on bending some lines?
I’d plan on bending some, the aftermarket lines I have encountered where not worth the money because they didn’t fit.

Do I need new brake lines 1972-style (in front of crossmember) instead of my 1967-style (behind crossmember).?
ECE conversion hoses will work with your existing hard lines.

Can I buy normal length front shocks if I use a relocate bracket.?
Call RideTech, they will hook you up. I think member crawdadfox is a dealer and may be able to help you with these.

If I buy new control arms to go with modular spindles should I specify newer ball joints or stay ’67 throughout.?
I’d stay ’63-’70 ball joints, if not you’d have to change many other steering and suspension parts.

On the rear I want an 8” drop. Planning to use 2” blocks and 6” lowering springs along with No Limit panhard, sway bar and shock relocate kit. Matching shocks to front of truck. And a c-notch of course.
Seems reasonable to me.

Buck, thank you for the help. This is great.!

The ECE conversion hoses will be a lifesaver because my truck appears to have newish brake lines and this way I don't have to replace them. But I may have to do something up top since I'm changing form manual to power brakes and I am planning to use the Wilwood proportioning valve.

And a couple votes for the PB forward arms so far (and they are roughly the same price as CPP).

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by Bucks68

Here is a static 5/7 drop set up I've been wanting to see someone build.

Front
Porterbuilt Upper and lower control Arms - 1’ forward
CPP Modular Spindles – 2” drop
ECE Front Drop Coils – 3” drop
Porterbuilt Tie Rod Adjusters
ADDCO Sway Bar
RideTech HQ Series single adjustable front shocks

Rear
Porterbuilt Stage 2 deluxe for static drop:
Porterbuilt Trailing Arm Crossmember
Porterbuilt trailing arms with spring mounts (1” drop built in)
ECE Rear Drop Spring – 6” drop
Porterbuilt adjustable rack bar
Porterbuilt C-notch
Porterbuilt Upper/Lower shock mounts
RideTech HQ Series single adjustable rear shocks
Rear Sway Bar - TBD

I think this would be a fantastic street truck set up. The shocks would go a long way toward tailoring the ride quality and performance and the other parts would partener to make the truck handle very well. Wouild love to see someone do this.

I'm with you and looking at most of this list, other than the expensive shocks..pretty pricey.

And I will keep my stock trailing arms. Will check pinion angle and maybe flip the mounts if I can get away with it.

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by lolife99

Personally I see no reason to change to the 73-87 stuff.

OK that is good to know. I actually just put new ball joints in my truck to pass the inspection when I brought it into Canada.

[kitsbeach]

Buck, I just went through your Shiro thread and I'm part way through the farm truck build thread (I should be working lol).

Do you think I'll need an ECE or Porterbuilt trailing arm crossmember with my 8" drop and stock trailing arms.?

I'm planning on keeping two piece driveshaft. Will one day shorten truck from LWB to SWB.

[C10_ustacould]

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

Buck, I just went through your Shiro thread and I'm part way through the farm truck build thread (I should be working lol).

Do you think I'll need an ECE or Porterbuilt trailing arm crossmember with my 8" drop and stock trailing arms.?

I'm planning on keeping two piece driveshaft. Will one day shorten truck from LWB to SWB.

The 2 piece drive shaft is a plus with keeping the factory T/A crossmember, if it were a one piece I don't think it would work. One nice thing about the aftermarket crossmembers is the ability to run your exhaust through them. Many folks on here have created pass-throughs in factory units so that is also a possibility. Flipping the T/A mounts may be a good idea.