66 C10 won't start

[Black66]

My truck has been giving me problems lately. A few days ago it would fire up fine but occasionally I would turn the key and I would get nothing. No crank at all. My accessories would come on, radiator fan, lights, radio, etc. I'd then fiddle with the key turning it off and on pushing in and out on the clutch and eventually it would crank instantly. I thought it was the starter so I took it into Advance Auto Parts and the guy put it on the bench and it spun fine.

Now I put the starter back on and tried to start it up again, nothing happened but the accessories came on as usual. I tried it one more time and this time the radio made a noise like it was rewinding a tape and now I have no power whatsoever. I'm taking in the alternator and battery to Advance and seeing what they say.

Is there something I'm missing that could be bad?

[TJ's Chevy]

Your ignition switch. I'm almost positive.

[Black66]

Originally Posted by TJ's Chevy

Your ignition switch. I'm almost positive.

I've been searching this site and google trying to find out how to get to my ignition switch but it seems everyone has theirs on the dash next to the choke. Mine is on the steering column.

[TJ's Chevy]

Yours is a later model column and it looks like the choke was put in the original ignition switch's place. Looks like a 70's column to me.

[Black66]

Originally Posted by TJ's Chevy

Yours is a later model column and it looks like the choke was put in the original ignition switch's place. Looks like a 70's column to me.

Do you know how I'm supposed to get to my ignition switch on this column? Or direct me somewhere

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by Black66

Do you know how I'm supposed to get to my ignition switch on this column? Or direct me somewhere

Not really skilled on these later model columns but looks to me if you take the steering wheel off you should be able to get right to it.

[Black66]

Does that require a steering wheel puller or simply unscrewing the 3 screws under the Chevy center pad and the one bolt under that? Thank you for the help by the way!

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by Black66

Does that require a steering wheel puller or simply unscrewing the 3 screws under the Chevy center pad and the one bolt under that? Thank you for the help by the way!

Yes you will need a puller. After you take the horn assembly out and there will be a rather large bolt...11/16...I can't remember. Then take the puller and jerk that wheel off there....your turn signal mechanism may be in the way as well so you might have to pull that. Won't know until you take a gander of whats lurking under neath that wheel. Watch out for snakes. haha!

[Black66]

Well... I made it to here. Not sure how to take this off:

[Black66]

I found this: http://www.gmsqu*rebody.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3085

but it's not saying anything about the ignition switch.

[TJ's Chevy]

It looks like that plate should just pull off of there either that or unscrew....

[TopFuel1966]

There's a wire lock ring that fits into a groove around the column shaft that secures the plate. You need to push down on the plate while removing the lock ring. There's a tool available to do this.

[jmabx]

That style steering column (for pickups) originally had the ignition switch mounted towards the bottom of the column. The ignition cylinder had a "rack" at the back of it that pulled a rod that was hooked into the switch. If look at the side of the column underneath while turning the key on and off, you should see the rod moving. That rod is attached to the ignition switch.

IF the column was left original.

Hope that helps.

[Black66]

Originally Posted by jmabx

That style steering column (for pickups) originally had the ignition switch mounted towards the bottom of the column. The ignition cylinder had a "rack" at the back of it that pulled a rod that was hooked into the switch. If look at the side of the column underneath while turning the key on and off, you should see the rod moving. That rod is attached to the ignition switch.

IF the column was left original.

Hope that helps.

I was looking at a 77 steering column and it looks to be nearly the same as the one in my truck. http://www.73-87chevytrucks.com/tech...ice_Manual.pdf
I think in this guide on page 241 (3B-45) it says I don't even need to remove the steering wheel??

[jmabx]

Correct. Page 3B-48 shows the switch as #29. You should be able to see the switch towards the bottom of the column. On the same side as the key cylinder.

[franken]

Before tearing out the ignition switch, why not measure the voltage on the wire going to the solenoid. It's usually purple. Measure to ground.
A bad ground or a loose connection can cause these symptoms.

[Black66]

Switched out the ignition switch and still nothing. I turn the key to accessory, no power whatsoever. I even have a toggle switch that goes directly to my radiator fan and that doesn't respond to a flip.

[TJ's Chevy]

Do you have battery voltage? I mean have you checked with a volt meter? I'm assuming your fan is hot wired from the battery to a toggle switch and if that's the case you may want to check your battery. Check your grounds as well. Your battery ground should hook to the engine. I'd take it off an sand that area to bare metal for the "good feeling" of it. Did that to my 66 and no worries. I coulda sworn it was the ignition switch. I had the same issue once with my 77. If your battery is dead that could easily fix this situation but if not I'd start taking a test light and figuring out where your wires are dead or if you have some blown fuses.

[Palf70Step]

What's working on the truck?

headlights? horn?

From what I gathered it sounds like almost nothing is working now and as TJ mentioned I would start with the battery and trace back where your voltage is being loss.

My 64 the battery just upped and died. Went from fine, to absolutely nothing in one crank.

also check the firewall connections for the main lead going into the fuse box.

[Black66]

Alright so I was out tinkering around with wires trying to find SOMETHING and sure enough I found this:




The yellow wire that has a 30 Amp fuse that burnt out runs in front of my radiator to the positive terminal of my battery. It seems to give power to whatever that rusty, ancient looking module thing is (circled in red). I have another 30A fuse but I need to splice in a new female connector.

That being said, I disconnected the yellow wire from the battery and still no go. No power, radiator fan toggle switch doesn't work, nothing.

[jtrichard]

That wire in front of the RAD is the MAIN power feed for the whole truck the "rusty thing" is the horn relay.... the melt down of the connector was from a bad (high resistance) connection hence you original problems

[Black66]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

That wire in front of the RAD is the MAIN power feed for the whole truck the "rusty thing" is the horn relay

I cut the melted female fuse connector out of the yellow wire and ran it straight to that horn relay (for a temporary test) and the toggle switch to my radiator works! Turned the key in the ignition and accessories came on. Still not cranking though even with the new ignition switch in. The new ignition switch doesn't seem to require me to turn the key as much as the old one did either, does that mean I installed the rod into it wrong?

[jtrichard]

GO to the starter solenoid and see if when you are it the "crank" position you have power to the small "S" terminal

[Black66]

Originally Posted by jtrichard

GO to the starter solenoid and see if when you are it the "crank" position you have power to the small "S" terminal

I ran a jumper cable to the positive terminal on the battery to that S terminal with the purple wire that goes to my ignition switch. It started turning so I'm assuming that purple wire is shorted or just a bad connection somewhere along it? I'm going to replace that now