69 C-10 rear coil to leaf swap

[dell72]

I have a 69 SWB C-10. I lowered it using cut springs in the front and a combination of chevelle rear springs and a 1" block.

I like the stance, but I miss having the payload capabilities the stock springs offered. I have been thinking about converting to rear leaf springs and doing an axle flip. This way I can have my desired ride height and the payload capabilities.

I know the leaf will probably ride rougher than the current set up, but it is a truck. I'm not looking to haul yards of gravel, just the occasional engine, etc. Possibly tow a trailer.

How hard is it to locate the spring hangers on the frame, and when doing the flip, do I need to use an axle pad with a offset center pin hole to center the wheel in the wheel well?

Thanks for any suggestions.

[andrewmp6]

What about air bagging the rear?

[aod92]

They also have the helper bags you can stick inside the coil spring.

[dell72]

I would rather have something I don't have to maintain or rely on compressed air to work

[BR3W CITY]

What is it that the coils aren't doing for you? You can have a low truck and still haul a trailer or a full bed of stuff, thats a function of the spring length and rate, and the shock (in combination with the geometry of the hard-parts).

How much drop are you getting from the Chevelle springs? If your after a super-low ride, that still won't be any more practical with leaf springs. Drop leafs or pulled leafs sacrifice payload as well.

You can combine drop trailing arms with a better spring (with rating that will actually hold weight) and get similar results, or consider something like the variable rate jeep springs, which stiffen as they compress to help when overloaded.

Or, you can consider replacing your shocks with the air-assist shocks that have been in use for decades. They don't really require maintenance, and you only mess with them when you need the assistance.

FWIW, I'm about 5-6" dropped in the rear of my '66 with some crappy jeep coils, a c-notch and nitro drop shocks (my rear suspension is the worst part of my truck), and I can carry an engine/tranny combo and a hoist without bottoming on the frame or being undriveable.

[andrewmp6]

What about using rear lowering springs made for your truck?They should have the spring rate to still haul with it.

[dell72]

I can appreciate everyone's love for the coil spring suspension, but I'm looking for information on swapping to leaves, has anyone done this swap that can offer some advice?

[BR3W CITY]

You still haven't said why your set on running that setup? The only guys who usually would consider that setup would be doing so to get something like the "Service" type C30's (wreckers, ambulances etc).

Its spending money and work, for a worse ride and in some cases, the same payload. Like I said above, even with switching to leaf, if you wanna be low you won't gain any payload.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

You still haven't said why your set on running that setup? The only guys who usually would consider that setup would be doing so to get something like the "Service" type C30's (wreckers, ambulances etc).

Its spending money and work, for a worse ride and in some cases, the same payload. Like I said above, even with switching to leaf, if you wanna be low you won't gain any payload.

While I agree that the truck-arm coil arrangement will ride better & can carry any load the OP might come up with, if he wants to do all that work & swap to leafs they can provide a similar lowered height & capacity since a stock leaf set-up w/the axle on top of the leafs (flip kit) will yield 6" of drop w/no change in payload capacity.

Originally Posted by dell72

I have a 69 SWB C-10. I lowered it using cut springs in the front and a combination of chevelle rear springs and a 1" block.

I like the stance, but I miss having the payload capabilities the stock springs offered. I have been thinking about converting to rear leaf springs and doing an axle flip. This way I can have my desired ride height and the payload capabilities.

I know the leaf will probably ride rougher than the current set up, but it is a truck. I'm not looking to haul yards of gravel, just the occasional engine, etc. Possibly tow a trailer.

How hard is it to locate the spring hangers on the frame, and when doing the flip, do I need to use an axle pad with a offset center pin hole to center the wheel in the wheel well?

Thanks for any suggestions.

Leaf spec'd frames had reinforcement 'beads' pressed into the frame rails where the F/R hangers were riveted. Your coil frame won't have these (@ least the early pre-71 leaf frame I had once upon a time had them & my same year coil frame didn't).
You can place the hangers where needed & not have to utilize an axle pad w/the offset hole like a stock leaf set-up would utilize when doing a flip kit or use a standard flip kit & place the hangers in the OE location (you'll have to source truck for dimensions on the hanger placement). You'll also need to source new upper/lower shock mounts.

[whitedog76]

I'm all for swapping to leaf springs.

Since you're completely swapping the suspension, you have lots of options.

You wouldn't really need to stick with the OE hangers and shackles. You could use whatever you want.

I'm using Ford Ranger leafs and hangers on my 54. The Ranger springs are slightly longer than the OEM. Should provide good ride and still have plenty of payload. Not to mention they're dirt cheap.

Worst case scenario, if you don't get the ride height you want, just throw a lift block in.

http://www.sdtrucksprings.com/leaf-springs

[dell72]

I thought about using a longer leaf spring from a 88 and newer chevy truck to help aid with maintaining some ride quality.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

While I agree that the truck-arm coil arrangement will ride better & can carry any load the OP might come up with, if he wants to do all that work & swap to leafs they can provide a similar lowered height & capacity since a stock leaf set-up w/the axle on top of the leafs (flip kit) will yield 6" of drop w/no change in payload capacity.

Ah I didn't think about the flip kit, so your getting the drop out of the mounting points instead of the leaf itself. My main issue with most dropped trucks on leafs is the tendancy to remove overloads (or pull leaves in general), resulting in springs that can over-on themselves and possibly have more trouble maintaining axle centering.

I still stand by the fact that you can set it up to do anything the OP is describing, with coils, probably for less.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Ah I didn't think about the flip kit, so your getting the drop out of the mounting points instead of the leaf itself. My main issue with most dropped trucks on leafs is the tendancy to remove overloads (or pull leaves in general), resulting in springs that can over-on themselves and possibly have more trouble maintaining axle centering.

I still stand by the fact that you can set it up to do anything the OP is describing, with coils, probably for less.

I agree..... But some people need to do it their way.

[Mike C]

I have a '69 short step factory leaf equipped with the optional HD 4 leaf springs. The DJM flip on my truck netted just over 7" of drop. I have Cal-Trac bars which made it necessary to remove the overload because it hit the bars.

The real issue with any sort of load carrying ability is clearance to the frame at that point. To carry 500# in the bed without bottoming out all the time you need to c-notch which I didn't want to do. I did remove the overload plate welded to the top of the axle housing and I added urethane bumpstoms between the axle housing and frame.

You can run a bigger wheel/tire combo with the coil spring setup and you could add air bags to stiffen up the rear. You have many more options on how much/little drop you get with coils.

If it were me, I'd ditch the Chevelle springs and get a set of 3/4 ton rated lowering springs that hit the # you want and call it good. Beyond that, rig up a set of overloads like were optional from the factory but you will have to make changes to mounts because of ride height differences.

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by Mike C

and you could add air bags to stiffen up the rear.

x2 this works sooo easy, even with no compressor or maintenance. Air shocks are great to help the ride and assist with load leveling, and the in-spring helper bags have been great in a few trucks with campers I've tried.

OP- Its you truck, and your choice. If you wanna prove us wrong, thats fine too...but we are only out to make the "best" recommendation we can make as a community. If our suggestions aren't right for you, don't be offended or think we don't want to help (even if sometimes it seems we're being combative).

[jjzepplin]

I don't have a coil truck but I understand the rear of the frame is different than a leaf truck. Would the springs still line up straight? I know someone tried to convert my leaf frame to coil and the coils came out past the side of the frame and I would have had to rig some sort of bracket for the top of the coil. Someone else on here did that but I opted to just use the leafs and even added an extra for loads. I am also planning on a stock rear sway bar from a one ton leaf truck in the mix which should work out quite well and handle good too.

[dell72]

the shape of the rear frame rails are the same between the two styles of suspensions, there are some minor differences like some have stated, also the obvious difference in bracketry and crossmembers.

[Mike C]

The differences in the frames are in the 2x4 and 4x4. Longhorns and 30 series trucks fall in the 4x4 category where the rails are parallel while they are slightly spread on the 2 wheel drives. 40.5" spring center versus 42.5" spring center, but they made leaf spring 2 wheel drive trucks that have the 42.5" spring centers so it can be done.

Another difference is in the spring brackets. The 2 wheel drive leaf trucks have 2 1/4" wide springs while the others have 2 1/2" wide springs. There also is a difference in height of the 2x4 and 4x4 brackets. So it can be a bolt on conversion, you just need to find a 1/2 ton leaf donor.

[dell72]

my current rear spring is 7.75" tall at ride height combined with a 1" lowering block giving me my desired ride height. I would need a lowering spring with the same installed height. An airbag setup in the rear wouldn't be bad, but from what I've seen they're approximately $1000.00 with the onboard compressor. Is there a low buck airbag set up for the rear out there?

[Mike C]

If you want bags for load carrying, no need for a compressor. Just a Schrader valve and air tank. You should be able to get a pair for less than $400, just depends on how inclusive the kit is. Here is a link to one, but I would call Summit or Jegs.

http://www.autoanything.com/suspensi...A2966A0A0.aspx

I would call ECE and talk to them about ordering a real truck lowering spring rather than the Chevelle setup. They will know better what you need than just about anybody.

[dell72]

I would be curious to see what the spring rate on a lowering spring is. my current springs have a load rate of 602 lbs