Register or Log In To remove these advertisements. |
|
|
|
Thread Tools | Display Modes |
03-03-2015, 07:57 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: St. Cloud, Fl
Posts: 10
|
65 C10 differential swap questions
Hello fellow C10 lovers. I am new to this forum and am still learning to navigate the site. I still haven't learned how to even post a picture yet, but I am in need of some educated and experienced advise on which way to go on my truck. I can not afford to learn by trial and error. Besides, I'm want to drive my truck......sooner than later.
So, here goes. I've owned a few C10's in my day, but never one this old. It needs updated in a bad way. I have purchased an entire front suspension from a 83 C10 donor truck. I was able to get everything from the firewall forward. I want to convert it to power disk brakes, power steering and convert to 5 lug. I am going to do a static drop for now, so drop spindles and drop springs are in the works. I have a couple questions at this point of collecting parts. 1) What is the best rear end to run in this truck for a better hwy friendly gear ratio? I want between a 308 and a 355 gear ratio with the limited slip I think. I'm going to put a V8 in it eventually I'm sure, but this 230, 6 will have to work for now. So I'm not worried about not having any low end in it right now. 2) What year differentials are the best to run? I know after 70 they are wider, so how does that effect the "trail" of the truck when I'm using a 83 front suspension? I also would like it to bolt up to the stock trailing arms if possible. My goal is for this to be somewhat of a daily driver. So,an updated drive train is a must. But I want it to be updated in the smartest most logical way. The expertise and combined knowledge on this forum is invaluable, so all input and advise is greatly appreciated. Thanks, Bill I think I figured out how to post a pic. This my truck before I purchased it, but it still looks the same. I'm still gathering parts at this point. |
03-03-2015, 08:46 PM | #2 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Hayes Va
Posts: 4,569
|
Re: 65 C10 differential swap questions
The best way to get to 5 lug and a 3.08 gear would be a 71 or 71 rear. The wider rear was don the match the wider front when the went to disc so you will be fine with it.
Jimmy
__________________
60 to 66 Chevy and GMC window decals http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=661131 Good friends, good food and a hotrod what else do you need? 1966 BBW long fleet Daily driver 1965 BBW short fleet Sold and going to a good home 1965 Suburban 2003 3500 Duramax 2005 Ultra Classic |
03-04-2015, 01:50 AM | #3 |
60-66 Nut
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Posts: 23,252
|
Re: 65 C10 differential swap questions
Welcome to the forum
That is correct. The '71 and '72 12 bolt will be the only direct bolt in differential to your truck that will have the 5 x 5" wheel stud pattern. But the odds of finding one with the gear ratio you want and a posi is going to be very difficult and $$$$$ when you do. The '73 and up will require cutting and welding to install. Of course you could always install different gears and the conversion axles in your current 12 bolt. A taller tire will help lower the rpm's with your current gear ratio. Have you considered an OD trans?
__________________
Power Steering Box Adapter Plates For Sale HERE Power Brake Booster Adapter Brackets For Sale '63-'66 HERE and '67-'72 HERE and '60-'62 HERE and "60-'62 with clutch HERE Rear Disc Brake Brackets For Sale. Impala SS calipers HERE Camaro Calipers HERE D52 Calipers HERE 6 Lug HERE Hydroboost Mounting Plates HERE |
03-04-2015, 05:41 PM | #4 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: St. Cloud, Fl
Posts: 10
|
Re: 65 C10 differential swap questions
Quote:
|
|
03-05-2015, 01:49 AM | #5 |
60-66 Nut
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Posts: 23,252
|
Re: 65 C10 differential swap questions
There's no need to go to the expense of narrowing a '73-'87 differential. With a '73-'87 differential the original spring perches and shock mounts need to be cut off and trailing arm mounts welded on at the correct pinion angle. Plus a panhard bar mount needs to be either welded to the passenger side axle tube or an aftermarket one that mounts to the passenger side trailing arm.
__________________
Power Steering Box Adapter Plates For Sale HERE Power Brake Booster Adapter Brackets For Sale '63-'66 HERE and '67-'72 HERE and '60-'62 HERE and "60-'62 with clutch HERE Rear Disc Brake Brackets For Sale. Impala SS calipers HERE Camaro Calipers HERE D52 Calipers HERE 6 Lug HERE Hydroboost Mounting Plates HERE |
03-05-2015, 06:16 PM | #6 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: St. Cloud, Fl
Posts: 10
|
Re: 65 C10 differential swap questions
Thanks very much Captfab. You wouldn't believe how hard this kind of info is to find. I guess I just wasn't asking the right people. The C10's I've had in the past were all 73-87. I never had one this old, but this 65 is by far my favorite truck. I see you sell adapter plates for the brake booster and steering box, so when I get that far, I'll be back in touch with you.
Thanks again |
03-06-2015, 01:12 AM | #7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Tulare, CA
Posts: 734
|
Re: 65 C10 differential swap questions
If you're thinking about changing ratios a couple of times and you have welding skills or know a good friend that does another option might be to use a Ford 9" rear end. Our early Chevy Truck rear ends are 62" wide from WMS to WMS (wheel mounting surface) A 57 -72 Ford F100 rear end is 61.25 inch4e wide WMS to WMS. So is a 60 -64 Ford Full Size car, 71-73 Mustang & 67-73 Torino, Ranchero & Fairlanes are all also 61.25" WMS to WMS. Or 3/8" narrower than our early C10's. That way if you want to change rear end ratios from 3:08's, 3:25's 3:73's etc. just drop out the pumpkin and swap them out. The down side is you will need to cut off the Ford perches and weld on perches for your C10, you will need to have your axel shafts redrilled to a 5 on 5 pattern and most likely need a different U joint to match the Ford rear end.
|
03-06-2015, 12:12 PM | #8 |
Never Ending Projects
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,836
|
Re: 65 C10 differential swap questions
Lots of good info about axles but another option would be to add an overdrive transmission. For an auto, a 700R4 would work great, a manual a T5 or AX15 swap would be great as well.
Since it sounds like you want a posi and 5 lug axles, the easiest (not cheapest) would be to have a new set of gears, posi unit and 5 lug axles installed into your current housing. This would require zero fab work and most shops who do this work could have it done in a day. If you are not ever looking to install an overdrive transmission, I would recommend 3.08 gears. 3.55 would be perfect with an overdrive.
__________________
. 1965 C10 Panel, Tiki Express http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=506580 SOLD 1968 Chevy C10, Long, Fleetside, Hot Rod Hauler http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=313233 SOLD 1965 Chevy C10, Long, Fleetside, Hot Rod C10 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=415702 SOLD We were given two ears and one mouth for a reason... listen twice as much and speak half as often... |
04-14-2015, 06:23 PM | #9 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: St. Cloud, Fl
Posts: 10
|
Re: 65 C10 differential swap questions
Thanks for the advice on my rear differential questions. Just to update y'all, I was able to score a 72 C10 rear end. Literally the only one I've seen for sale. It has a 307 gear ratio, but is an open carrier. So, not exactly what I wanted, but close enough. I can always add the LTD slip later.
That being said. The install opened up a whole new set of issues. U-joint, pinion yoke issues, wheel cylinders didn't fit, parking brake differences, etc. The damn trailing arm split right in two. We welded the trailing arm back together and are working through the other issues. So, It's all good. I have the front suspension to install next. It's all back from powder coat and I had the machine shop install new lower ball joints and a-arm bushings. Lots to do! Thanks again for all your help. Bill |
Bookmarks |
|
|