Trimming/knotch the frame

[Richie209]

Do I absolutely have to trim the frame if I want to run the low mount A/C pump? I'm doing a frame off resto on a 70 short bed I plan to put an Vette LS2 in it and I wanna run the low mount AC I really don't want to trim the frame but if I have no other option I will.. What parts would I need to buy to run the low mount AC with out having to trim the frame.. I've searched and searched the fourm but I could never find a straight answer. And if there's no other option but to trim the frame where and what part do I trim? http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1429989990 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1429990326

[BR3W CITY]

Trimming the frame really isn't that big of a deal. Usually you only need to clip the lip off, not actually hack into the frame. I can't say for sure about your AC clearance, but I do know that if you need to do it, its not something to worry about.

[Richie209]

Thanks for the reply br3w.. I'm just gonna do ahead and take a lil off that curve on the frame.. I have to get this done by Tuesday frames going in to get powder coated..

[BR3W CITY]

If its only a little tiny clearance you need, you could also just tweak the lip. I did a tiny bit to clear my PS pump, buy putting 2 big adjustable wrenches on the lip and applying upward force to the lip (and hammering the base). Flexed the lip 1/3" to give me piece of mind.

[crazy longhorn]

Originally Posted by BR3W CITY

Trimming the frame really isn't that big of a deal. Usually you only need to clip the lip off, not actually hack into the frame. I can't say for sure about your AC clearance, but I do know that if you need to do it, its not something to worry about.

Agree...if you plan to powder the frame, I might opt to scribe a straight line , from the hole in center of the of the vertical lip, back to 1 " from the 1st stand mount hole in the frame. I would also run a line, from that hole forward, to cross ,where the bottom of the front cross member sits. What do you think BREW? Longhorn

[Richie209]

I really appreciate the reply' guys! My issues is I don't have the engine on hand to mock it up so I pretty much have to guesstimate how much I need to take off.. Keep the replies coming guys

[BR3W CITY]

Originally Posted by crazy longhorn

Agree...if you plan to powder the frame, I might opt to scribe a straight line , from the hole in center of the of the vertical lip, back to 1 " from the 1st stand mount hole in the frame. I would also run a line, from that hole forward, to cross ,where the bottom of the front cross member sits. What do you think BREW? Longhorn

Its hard to visualize what your describing, but if your just making two lines to create a center to cut from, I guess that makes sense.

I'm lazy, I'd probably just run a chalk at the base of the lip, cut a horizontal slice out of it, and hammer the rest down. That way the frame doesn't look like its notched.

[clinebarger]

Without mocking up the engine & compressor you are going to run....Nobody has any idea how much to trim off the frame.

LS2 'Vettes uses a Harrison V-7 compressor, This variable displacement (Leaking POS) doesn't work well in swaps. The Suction & Discharge ports point straight out the side. The Corvette accessory spacing is close to the engine, The compressor will interfere with the motor mount/frame stand.

[Richie209]

I totally understand without the engine on hand it's hard to say what to trim.. I was hoping someone with the same setup would chim in on what they did to make it work and what they used (engine mounts,A/C compressor ect) I'm even wondering if it's necessary to have to trim the frame.. Anyone here using the alangrove A/C bracket it looks like it would work without having to trim the frame

I appreciate all the input guys..

[MalibuSSwagon]

I'd honestly run a top mount AC compressor, that the way I'm going to go once I get around to installing AC. The Holley brackets are cast to look like stock brackets.

[Richie209]

Originally Posted by MalibuSSwagon

I'd honestly run a top mount AC compressor, that the way I'm going to go once I get around to installing AC. The Holley brackets are cast to look like stock brackets.

Yeah I'm thinking that's what I'll do.. I just don't feel comfortable trimming the frame without having an engine to mock it up too... I'll post up some pics after I get it back from the powder coat shop.. Gonna put an ECE 4/6 drop on it with wilwood breaks on all 4 corners..

[First c10]

If I can locate the pictures I have, I didn't cut anything on my frame and I am running the stock AC compressor on a truck engine setup. Its a 2011 LC9 5.3/6L80E.
i did have to make a custom AC line but that wasn't that hard.

[First c10]

Here is the picture I said I would post.

[BR3W CITY]

Looks like if you can use 90* fittings, clearing that bump wouldn't be too bad.

[ls1nova71]

You are DEFINITELY putting the cart before the horse if youve already sent the frame to the powdercoater before doing any kind of mock up. Youre setting yourself up for problems and will most likley have to cut, drill or weld something on your nice frame at some point. That said, I didnt trim mine much, maybe 1/2 inch so that the low side line would never come close to touching the frame. Also, as was said before, the Vette compressor is a variable compressor and wont work right with an aftermarket A/C system.

[Richie209]

Thanks for all the feed back guys.. I'll post up some pics when I get it back from PC

[BigDan3131]

That's why I would just get an aftermarket kit they pretty much get rid of all the fitment issues and place them where you want. I have to build my own since I'm going remote on the water pump but if I were going to buy a kit Kwik Performance is who I would get one from.