3/4 ton sf axles

[Lieferson]

So i have a 72 k5 with stock running gear and have the opportunity to get set of 3/4 ton axles for a really good deal. Only problem is that the rear is a sf 14 bolt and the front is a 10 bolt. I understand these are not preferred but they are already locked and regeared to 4:11s, disk brake conversion in the rear. stainless brake lines, slotted rotors, 8 lugs, reid racing knuckles up front with cross over steering and green stuff brake pads. If im just running 35s with a B-52/shackle flip these should hold up just fine for some mild wheeling and logging roads yea?

[andrewmp6]

The 10 bolt is about even with a dana 44 and they are good tell 37s,As long as you wheel smart and pick your line you should be fine.But most off roaders i know carry spare parts like u joints and extra of all the fluids it takes,And things like a fire extinguisher, A first aid kit and a working cb in case things go bad.

[franken]

The only knock on the 14B is it hangs so low.
Check the 14B for shock mounts, and spring center to center. Both on one side? 76-72 had staggered shocks. C2C on trucks that came w/ a 14B was usually wider than your 72. DRW and cab and chassis often had the narrow spring C2C.

[obijuan]

That 14 bolt semi float is a formidable axle. I dont see any reason to not do it if it is a good deal and has the parts and gear you want. You will most likely need to redo some mounts in the rear axle unless that hasn't been done. Keep your front calipers and just swap them to the new axle. But the rear may need a different fitting for the lines. That rear has a 1350 u joint so a new driveshaft or conversion u joint is needed. You will need new ubolts so be sure to get the spring plates with it. Also 8 lug wheels obviously.

[Lieferson]

Ok so i already ordered new shock tabs, spring plates and ubolts from diy4x for the axles, plan on welding those up this week hopefully. also got a good deal on some hummer h2 wheels and tires so im good there as well. from the sounds of it all i will need now is the brake proportioning valve to work with a disk/disk set up, and a u joint conversion? would a new drive shaft be a better option? oh and shocks of course.

[obijuan]

When I did my discs I didn't need a different valve. Mine just happened to work well. Try and see. A conversion joint is just fine. You may need new hard lines on the rear axle. Or just trim and reflare the ones you have.

[Lieferson]

okay thanks for the info, hopefully all goes well!

[Mike C]

For 35's and a reasonable driver, that's a great combo. I have a SF 14 in the back of my Jimmy as the solution to grenaded 12 bolts and it's been excellent. I cut 12 bolt shock mounts off an old housing and used those as the are rotated up to be completely above the axle tube for clearance. I used a conversion u-joint on my existing driveshaft. Because the shaft was custom long with a double cardan CV, it was too long. I redrilled perches and moved axle back about 3/4" and it's more ceneterd in wheel well now.

[Lieferson]

Hmm cutting the shock mounts off isn't a bad idea. I'm not too worried about the shock mounts though. it will mostly be used for hunting/fishing/camping. I'll buy a Cherokee I can go destroy in the trails. What conversion u-joint did you use? How well has it held up?