Planning 66 C10 Build

[Truck21]

Hello, This is a long post but I wanted to try to include enough information!

I'm building a 66 C10 and need help with the suspension. This is the plan so far:

1. Get a 1973-1986 parts truck and swap front/rear ends, steering with box.

2. Swap in an ls motor with a turbo ~500whp. 4l80e trans

3. Locked 12 bolt with 4.10 for now and maybe switch to 4.56 after I see how the 4.10s work.

4. Recess the front cross member to raise it in the frame and center the wheels.

6. Kick up the rear frame 4" and raise the bed floor.

This is where I am not sure. My goal is to get the suspension where I want it. I do not want to lay frame. I want it lowered but not really low. I do not care if I can raise and lower it.

I want to go as fast as I can in a straight line on the street and be able to handle enough to make it a fun ride not a slot car.

I plan to keep the trailing arms and get a Wats link.

I see I can go the following ways:

1. Coilovers. Great but very expensive.

2. Static drop but will it hook?

3. Air ride: This is what I'm thinking. Get the bags and a manual valve. Cheap and effective?


What shocks should I get?

Tires I was thinking Nitto 555s.

I have the summer to work on it and would like to make a big dent before I go back to work.

Thanks for the help
Bill

[Truck21]

No replies?

Looks like I'm going to use the stock stuff and cut a coil from the front to get my ride height.

I will then see how it handles the power and adjust accordingly.

[tinydb84]

You may want to look at Wasted Incomes turbo LS blazer build.

Bags will be hard to hook. They don't store any energy up front and will limit weight transfer.
Coil overs aren't necessary. Look up Super73 on here. He runs regular coils up front and posted how to measure for the right coils.

For the rear you can run regular springs as well. You can build an adjustable mount for the front to adjust antisquat.

How low do you really need to be? If you run a decent tire height then drop spindles and coils should be good up front. Out back you can do springs and blocks.

Hope this helps.

[Truck21]

tinydb84 Thanks for the reply!


I don't want to slam it like most guys I think this is why I'm having problems finding info. From what I see I like the look of a 4/6 drop. I would really like to center the wheels in the wheel well also.

I'm thinking of a 28-30 inch tire on the back and a 26-28 on the front.

I don't want to just buy a 4/6 kit cause it prob won't hook.

I've been reading Super73 and am still trying to find where he uses stock stuff.

Thanks again
Bill

[Truck21]

Here's a link to Super73's suspension thread. Reading it now..

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=326863

[tinydb84]

Originally Posted by Truck21

Here's a link to Super73's suspension thread. Reading it now..

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=326863

That thread is good but it wasn't completed. He has a lot of information spread out through the forums though.

Originally Posted by Truck21

tinydb84 Thanks for the reply!


I don't want to slam it like most guys I think this is why I'm having problems finding info. From what I see I like the look of a 4/6 drop. I would really like to center the wheels in the wheel well also.

I'm thinking of a 28-30 inch tire on the back and a 26-28 on the front.

I don't want to just buy a 4/6 kit cause it prob won't hook.

I've been reading Super73 and am still trying to find where he uses stock stuff.

Thanks again
Bill

The number one question as always...whats your budget?

Porterbuilt has arms that will move the wheels forward an inch. You can go with a coilover dropmember to save weight and give you adjustable spring rate.

What skill level do you have? Are we talking bolt in or cutting and welding?

Either way I wouldn't buy a 4/6 kit. I would go with spindles and springs ordered to Super73's directions in the thread above.

In the rear I would do a 1-2'' block and possibly new springs. If you can weld you can recess the upper mount or go with No Limit's raised rail kit which will get you 4 inches lower. That will give you the full spring travel and 6 inches of drop.

[Truck21]

Again tinydb84 Thanks for the reply!

I have the money to spend on the truck but I am trying to keep this as low dollar as possible. Part to keep my wife happy, part to have more money for my next project and part cause it's a challenge.

So the store bought members are nice but not for me.

I remember reading RobNoLimit's thread where he showed how to kick up the rear rails, can't find it anymore.

I've been working on cars for about 30 years but never any metal fab. I was a machinist and ran a 300 ton press. I have a Millermatic 200 and a buddy who is a welder by trade and another buddy who built a race car including the frame for the local track. I'm hoping with the help from this board I will be ok

I'm not sure if I'm going to go with 4 coilovers or front coilovers with rear reg coils with rs9000s. Or coils in stock locations with rs9000s.

I don't want to have to re-buy parts later. I've read Super73's recent info and he seems to be going with front coilovers for better control of the front end.

I'll keep reading........

[tinydb84]

You may want to post in the racing section. There are a lot more guys over there that have specific knowledge.

Are you actually going to race it at a drag strip? If you are then stop reading because I know enough about the rules that some of what I am saying will cause you problems with getting a cert.


Here is what I would do if I was building a fun stop light to stop light type truck:
2 inch up 1 inch forward Z in the front
Drop spindles with longer springs with less spring rate
double adjustable shocks

Move the engine mounts as far back as possible and use dirty dingo sliders to push it back a bit further (might even make taller motor mounts)
Recess the firewall to allow room for the engine as needed

Z the rear of the frame 4-6 inches just after the bed mounts
Make new trailing arm mounts out of box tube cut in half
Either go coilovers or a good shock and play with different rear springs

Hope that helps. I would spend some time in the "haling more than hay" section though. The guys over there are super cool and helpful.