Slotted Rotors

[Juiced06GTO]

I do a bit of road racing in my GTO and have learned a ton about brakes. I run centric blanks on my car, no slots or drill holes. The most important thing is the pad and the fluid. Unless cast correctly aftermarket drilled rotors are not worth it and will crack once you put any type of heat into them. Slotted rotors will help with outgassing when pads get hot, but the chances that you have a big problem with that in a Suburban are probably low. If you bed the pads correctly you should be able to get them hot enough to not worry about outgassing during normal use. (outgassing is the bonding material in the pad getting hot and burning off and exposing the actual friction material, the theory is that the gases generated create voids between the rotor and pad when the brake is applied, you want to get them hot enough during bedding that most of the bonding material burns off anyhow)

I ran slotted rotors previously on my car that cost over $400 for the pair and a set of Hawk Street/Race pads. I destroyed them in two track days and boiled my brake fluid on the first day.

This year I made the switch to the blank centric rotors ($200 for the pair) and Hawk race pads ($260 for front pads) and upgraded to Motul RBF 600 brake fluid which has a dry boiling point over 600 degrees. I have three track days on them and they are all still going strong and this is stopping a 4klb car from speeds in excess of 120-130 mph in some cases for 4 20-25 minute sessions per day. According to my temp gun they were about 875 degrees coming off the track. If the blank rotors can handle that I am sure they will handle stopping the Burb in most situations.