47-1953 Lower Door post Replacement

[blm64Goat]

Hi.
Replacing lower door posts/hinge openings on a 1950 chevy 3/4 ton. Question is do I want to over lap any of the new part with the old or butt them up and make a nice seem that way. I'm guessing the later due to attaching the kick panel but would like reassurance. Thanks.

[mr48chev]

I would butt weld the lower piece in place. Thinking on it you could weld a plate to the top of the replacement piece that would slip up behind the piece that is still in the cab and put a couple of plug welds above the seam you weld up.

I know we keep preaching the assembly manual but this is a time where having one lets you sit down and see exactly how the pieces fit together and form a plan as to how you are going to replace panels.

[blm64Goat]

Thanks for the help. Where can I find the manual to help with the rebuild?

[05231990]

Take good measurements from every point you can before you cut the other piece out. I even went as for as making a line with a sharpie so i would know exactly where i pulled the tape from. try to leave as much of the original metal as you can on the truck, its a whole lot easier trimming the new piece to fit then adding back to it. When going back in with the new piece don't try to force it in, just grind it a little more until it slides into place. once you like the way fits put a magnet on it to hold it into place so that it will be flush with the side that its butted up to and tack it into place with several tack's then put your door back on and make sure everything fits rite. when you get it to the point that your happy weld it out and grind it smooth.

Here is a picture of mine tack in for fitment. Hope it helps.

[chevyguyase]

I use Mr48chev,s method, it keeps the replacement panel flush, allows you to move the panel & get it exactly where you want it before you fill the plug holes, you aren't welding a gap & it's extra strong. I find it also easier.

[Old Crow]

You can buy a tool that creates a 1/2" flange around the hole you cut out. When you place the patch panel in the flanged area, it's flush with the original metal and you aren't trying to bridge gaps when you weld.
We generally use weld-through primer on the flanged area and on the inside of the patch(if it won't be accessible). Screw the panel into the flanged area, weld all the way around and then remove the screws and plug weld those holes.
If you keep your welds short and move around the edge of the panel as you weld, you won't build enough heat to warp anything.