Give me you opinion regarding my front axle

[Yukon Jack]

Drove the K5 to work today for the first time since I yanked the 35"s from the 69 K20 and installed them on the K5. I've known those tires needed balancing bad and it was alot more noticable on the K5 so I stopped in to have them balanced before work.

Went to pick it up and they mechanic reported that my front axle's drivers side ball joint is in very bad shape and the passenger side axle needs a new upper ball joint and wheel bearings.

Then he mentions one of the rims is bent and has caused a very bad wear pattern.

Sure didn't need another project to be staring me in the face

I've never replaced ball joints before but after hearing the mechanic's quote of about $600, I know I won't be paying someone to replace them. (Had to laugh since I paid about $650 for the Blazer)

I have a buddy who is yanking out a 3/4 ton Dana 44 so he can install a Dana 60 so I'm considering just buying it from him and not screwing with replacing the ball joints in my existing axle. It's the right axle ratio and in good shape and since my existing axle is also a 3/4 ton, this would be a good possible solution.

I'm sure I can rip the axle out and put the other in place faster than I can figure out how to replace upper and lower ball joints + install new wheel bearings.

So, what does my K5 brethren think? Yank and replace or rebuild?

[jamie72]

i would swap it out, imo alot less work...

[AJs72K5]

Swap it out and replace the bearings and seals. Cheapest way to go...assuming his ball joints are good.

As a side note, that sounds about right on the labor...my brother had to replace all 4 ball joints on his 2000 Silverado...$680 for just the labor. I was at the shop pulling the body lift out of the K5 while they were working on his truck. It didn't look like fun. There seemed to be a lot of

[Chevyman63]

I think you may want to replace the parts on your existing axle. 1) It would be a good learning experience, 2) you have the ultimate resource, literally at your fingertips and 3) who knows how long the ones in your buddy's axle will last.

Just a thought.

But then again judging from the labor cost to have it done, it sounds like a real pain.

Tough decision...Good Luck!

[Yukon Jack]

My biggest consideration is time. I am in the middle of a project with the K20 so I don't hav a lot of free time. Of course, he doesn't have his axle out and he is in the middle of a house project so I don't know how soon he will have his axle out and available.

Always something!

[Jtrux]

Critter and I did it to his K5, really easy just need a press or access to one (another friend has one) and it'll be a quick procedure. Pull the tires, bearings, rotors, spindles and outer c's and change em out.

[Burt4x4]

The hardest part is pressing out the old and pressing in the new ball joints. Tearing it appart and back again is perrty easy..well I have done it like 20 times so that helps..anyway if you tear it down and just have the balljoints R & R then reassmeble your self will save you $$$$$$....
I think I paid 30 bucks to have mine R&R'ed.
BUTT ~ if your looking for a quick way then swap in your buddies axel, as long as he is giving you a killer deal and the balls don't rock back and forth...
It's not hard...just start tearing it apart hehehehe
Good Luck wish I was closer to give you a hand...

[Old Chevy Mech]

To me It depends on one thing..how good is the ring & pinion in the other axel ~vs~ the condition of the R & P in the existing axel. Withe the proper tool you can replace the ball joints in both sides in one day, 2 if you never did it before. I was leery of it until mine HAD to have it done. After that it was easy street and if you lived closer I'd do it for you for less than half. But there is something to be said about keeping what you own and fixing it, you know the history on it!

Frank

[truckster]

I spent about $100 in parts to replace all of my ball joints. While you have it apart, check the u-joints on the front axles and you might want to clean and lubricate your front hubs.

It took me about 4 or 5 hours, but I have a press in my garage.

[1tonblaze]

it only takes a few hrs to do that . i did mine in my blazer in like 3 hrs with all the proper tools . it might take you longer since you dont have a ball joint press but tearing it down and putting it together is cake comapared to other axles .

[zeeklu]

If you put a used axle in who knows how long those ball joints will last .I would just change your ball joints and be done with it. Depending on your mechanical ability it's not a bad job. Chris

[drunkbus]

Never done it but it looks like you can get a press for around a $100 and sounds like a good excuse to me to buy some more tools and you'll still be saving money.

[BLUE THUNDER]

I would build my own. you'll probably spend the same if not more on the axle as you would on parts. Then possibly rebuild that one???? Just invest in your own. Mario

[jeffspower]

Unless you don't plan on keeping it long, I'd spend the money fixing it. The only special tools that are "must haves" are a wheel bearing nut socket, and a upper ball joint spanner socket. Underneath the upper ball joint nut is a threaded preload collar that must be ran down & torqued to specs AFTER the lower joint is tightened. Don't try to back the old one out until you have beat out the ball joint either. Be sure to get new spindle bearing kits- cheap and easy while you are in there. Before sliding the axle shafts back in, make a scraper to go down in the axle tube & drag the debris out- or you will push it into the output seals and end up with seals that leak bad. If there is any sign of oil in the tubes- might as well go further & replace those seals. But that means pulling the diff.

It can easily turn into a long days work, but worth it if she's a keeper

[Jtrux]

Originally Posted by jeffspower

Unless you don't plan on keeping it long, I'd spend the money fixing it. The only special tools that are "must haves" are a wheel bearing nut socket, and a upper ball joint spanner socket. Underneath the upper ball joint nut is a threaded preload collar that must be ran down & torqued to specs AFTER the lower joint is tightened. Don't try to back the old one out until you have beat out the ball joint either. Be sure to get new spindle bearing kits- cheap and easy while you are in there. Before sliding the axle shafts back in, make a scraper to go down in the axle tube & drag the debris out- or you will push it into the output seals and end up with seals that leak bad. If there is any sign of oil in the tubes- might as well go further & replace those seals. But that means pulling the diff.

It can easily turn into a long days work, but worth it if she's a keeper

Yeah we had to get those special sockets when Critter did his. I do remember that the order they are torqued is very important, do it in the wrong order and it will be SUPER tight and not move so do it in the right order.

[Yukon Jack]

As usual, the advice from you all is great. My buddy was a little worried about his ball joints too and we both agreed after talking it over that I'm probably better off rebuilding my axle.

The above info will help me alot. The repair manual I have is the more basic style and I don't think it covers tearing apart the axle.

Will a Haynes manual cover this repair? If so I'll make a quick trip to the library and check one out to assist me.

[Big J]

I found this stuff for ya. Maybe it'll help. I've used the HF press on some u-joints and it worked great. Just be sure to lube the screw with some grease if ya get one, digs in if ya don't.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335

Chevy Truck 4wd Front Axle Ball Joint Replacement Instructions

The following instructions are according to GM specs, and include the use of special tools available from General Motors.

The special tools are -

J-9519-10 - "C" Clamp (not just a simple "C" Clamp)

J-23454 - 1

J-23454-4 - Sleeve - (Can be fabricated from 2-3/8" O.D. steel tubing with a minimum of 2-1/16" I.D., cut 2-1/2" long.)

J-23447 - Spanner (Wrench)

J-6382-3



Steering Knuckle Removal K10, K20 (With Ball Joints) -

1. Remove the automatic locking hub, hub-and-disc assembly, and spindle components.
2. Remove the steering arm.
3. Remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint castle nut.
4. Remove the retaining nuts from the upper and lower ball sockets.
5. Remove the knuckle assembly from the yoke by inserting a suitable wedge shaped tool between the lower ball stud and the yoke and tapping on the tool to release the knuckle assembly. Repeat as required at the upper ball stud location.

Ball Joint Service -

NOTICE: Do not remove the yolk upper ball stud adjusting sleeve unless new ball studs are being installed. If it is necessary to loosen the sleeve to remove the knuckle, do not loosen it more than a few threads using Spanner J-23447. The non-hardened threads in the yoke can be easily damaged by the hardened threads in the adjusting sleeve if caution is not used during knuckle removal.

- On the LH knuckle, it is necessary to remove the steering arm before servicing the upper ball joint. Remove the lower ball joint snap ring before beginning.
Lower ball joint must be removed before any service can be performed on the upper ball joint.

1. Remove the lower ball joint using tools J-9519-10 and J-23454-1, and sleeve J23454-4 or equivalent.
If tool J-23454-4 is not available a suitable tool can be fabricated from 2 - 3/8" O.D. steel tubing with a minimum of 2 - 1/16" I.D., cut 2 - 1/2" long.

2. Remove the upper ball joint using tools J-9519-10, J-23445-1, and sleeve J23454-4 or equivalent.

3. Install lower ball joint into knuckle. Make sure that the lower ball joint (the one without the cotter pin hole in the stud end) is straight. Press the stud into the knuckle until properly seated using tools J-9519-10, J-23454-2, and J-23454-4 or equivalent, and install snap ring.

4. Install upper ball joint into knuckle. Press the stud into the knuckle until properly seated using tools J-9519-10, J-23454-2, and J-23454-4 or equivalent.

Installation - (*See note)

1. Position the knuckle and sockets to the yoke. Install new nuts finger tight to the upper (the nut with the cotter pin slot) and lower ball socket studs.

2. Push up on the knuckle (to keep the ball socket from turning in the knuckle) while tightening the lower socket retaining nut. PARTIALLY torque the lower nut to 30 ft. lbs.

3. Torque the yoke upper ball stud adjusting sleeve to 50 ft. lbs. using Spanner J-23447.

4. Torque the upper ball socket nut to 100 ft. lbs. After torquing the nut, do not loosen to install cotter pin, apply additional torque, if necessary, to align hole in stud with slot in nut. Install cotter pin.

5. Apply FINAL torque to lower nut, 70 ft. lbs.

6. If the tie rod and steering arm were removed:
a. Assemble the steering arm using the three stud adapters and three new self locking nuts. Torque the nuts to 90 ft. lbs.

b. Assemble the tie rod to the knuckle arm. Torque the tie rod nuts to 45 ft. lbs, and install cotter pins.

*Note: Always use fasteners of the same grade as the original ones. Using inferior fasteners can result in premature parts failure. Using inferior fasteners can result in unsafe conditions, and hazardous part failures. Never substitute lower quality fasteners. Always torque fasteners to specifications.


Ball Joint Adjustment -

Front axle ball joint adjustment is generally necessary only when there is excessive play in steering, irregular wear on tires, or persistent loosening of the tie rod is observed.

1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist then place jack stands just inside of the front springs.

2. disconnect connecting rod and tie rod to allow independent movement of each steering knuckle.

3. Apply a fish scale to the tie rod mounting hole in the steering knuckle arm. With the knuckle assembly in the straight ahead position, determine the right angle pull required to keep the knuckle turning after the initial break away. This pull should not exceed 25 lbs., for each knuckle assembly, in either direction.

[special-K]

Ball joints are not hard at all,if you`re familiar with disassembling down to the knuckles.I just take mine to a guy and pay him to do the press-out/press-in.The rest is no big deal.If you have the guy set up to press the ball joints you can start and finish the same day,easy.

[Chevyman63]

Nice job Big J, I'll look in my Motor manual to see if there are any pics that go along with these instructions that may help.

[Yukon Jack]

Thanks so much for posting the above info guys! I've never disassembled a knuckle or done anything like this but I'm confident I can do it with the great assistance I've got here! Is all just nuts and bolts, eh

Not sure how soon I'm going to dive into this project but it of course has to be sooner than later.

[69TowRig]

Glad to see you decided to go that route. I replaced the ball joints on my knuckles when I did the disc brake swap, I think it cost me just over $100 for all four ball joints. I borrowed a friend's C-frame and swapped them pretty quickly.

[CJ5 Convert]

Big J if that isn't in Krue's FAAQ it should be thats good stuff. -Jason

[Mike C]

Harbor Freight has a ball joint C-press for $29 and you can add all the adapters you need for $49. At least in one of the last catalogs I got. Just R&R yours is MUCH easier IMO.

[Yukon Jack]

I'll look into that press. Might also just use the Auto Zone tool rental program as funds are kinda tight right now.

On a side note, I was digging through my papers on when I purchased the rims and tires in regards to the bent rim and bad tire that the tech advised me about. Looks like when I purchased these tires from 4 Wheel Parts they came with a road hazard warranty. Hopefully that will apply for the damaged tire but I'm not holding my breath as I know how bad of company 4 Wheel Parts is or has become. If I have to produce the receipt I might have trouble as I have no idea where it is, but I was able to find my notes from when I bought the tires/rims back in 2000.

[swissarmychainsaw]

This thread is old, but I would also encourage anyone to replace their ball joints themselves. It's really not that hard. I just did mine, as a first timer, and it all went really smoothly.

The bad news is that folks recommend, since you have it open, to replace:
* Ball Joints
* Front axle U-joints
* Front axle shaft seals!
* Be ready to replace your bearings too (mine were bad on one side!)

So I had to open the front differential (also a first) and that too went smoothly.

Special tools you'll need:
Ball Joint Nut Spanner

Amazon.com: OTC 7080 Ball Joint Spanner Wrench:...
Ball Joint Press (with 4x4 cups!)

Amazon.com: XtremepowerUS 4-in-1 Ball Joint...
Bearing Lock Nut Wrench

Amazon.com: Great Neck 25072 4Wd Brng Lock Nut...

All the parts are cheap, I'm sure I spent more on tools than parts!