Dually front rotor question... Please

[rwade]

I have an 88 one ton dually suspension and I'm Intrested in going to a single wheel front rotor to run 8 to 10 lug adapters for 22" Alcoa wheels. Can anyone tell me for certain (past experience) if it's as easy as changing the brake rotors? Are the spindles the same? Wheel bearings?

Thank you, Wade

[travlinman]

As I understand all u need is the 3/4 ton disks. Everything else stays the same.
Contact Todd at lowboy if u have any questions
http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/cha...in-dualie-22s/

[rwade]

I read the story in the link that deals with 92-2000 one ton duallys, question is does that same info apply to 73-91 one tons?

Thanks, Wade

[ruffrida2005]

Spindles are the same. from my understand and reading other post you have to swap all the 3/4 ton stuff: Hub, caliper, disc. There is a difference in the control arms for sure, the 3/4 are shorter, so if your bagged you have to lengthen the arms some if you wanna turn with ride height low. That's using 3/4 arms, 1ton arms are a lot longer and will have the rim/tire almost hitting the fender so you cant turn unless you raise it.

[rwade]

Paul, thank you for the response. I'm going to be static. And I'm building a mutt! It's the Chevy chassis with a 48 FORD F-5 on it (was my grandfathers farm truck bought new), so I need a narrowed trac for sure. I'm going to mock it all up but I didn't know the 3/4 ton arms were longer, I'm also considering keeping one ton arms and going 3/4 ton rotors and such then loosing the steering box in favor of a rack and pinion to the factory crossmember to get somemore turning room. It'll have a 5" drop all the way around. 😎

Thanks, Wade

[ruffrida2005]

You'll wanna run the 3/4 arms. They are shorter. Where in LA are ya. I work just outside of Ruston.

[SCOTI]

The 'arms' are the same length for 3/4 & 1-tons. I got a 2nd set of 3/4 ton arms when I was building cupped lowers for my dually.

The hub is where the difference in width occurs (SRW 1-ton & 3/4 ton vs DRW hub/rotor). When guys swap to the 3/4 ton rotors + adapters, it pulls the wheels in too far. They swap in longer afermarket arms or modify the existing ones to adjust the track width accordingly.

[rwade]

Do you know or maybe have an idea how much shorter? I'm in south Louisiana between lake Charles and Lafayette along I-10

Thanks, Wade

[rwade]

I responded before i saw your post Scoti. I'm gonna mock it up and see where it falls. I haven't seen any other duallys (and I'm sure they're out there) with a narrower body like the AD Chevys or in this case old ford, and I know the track width will need to be narrower than most other wider bodied trucks. That's why I was considering going to rack and pinion to lose the stick steering box and get some more turning radius and using the 3/4 or SRW rotors.

Wade

[SCOTI]

I know the arms are the same. Difference in hub/rotors I believe was 3+".

[rwade]

That may be just right if it's 3-4" the fenders are fat but not fat enough to cover the stock wider track. Thanks for the info

Wade

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by rwade

That may be just right if it's 3-4" the fenders are fat but not fat enough to cover the stock wider track. Thanks for the info

Wade

If you have the dually rotors/hubs already just measure the spacer dimension from the rotors friction surface to the wheel mounting flange. That's the hub spacer that allows running the dual wheels up front (& what makes 1-ton DRW rotor different from 1-ton/ 3/4 ton SRW rotors).

[rwade]

Mine don't have a "bolt on" spacer. One piece, 88 model, still square body type.
Like in the picture

Wade

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by rwade

Mine don't have a "bolt on" spacer. One piece, 88 model, still square body type.
Like in the picture

Wade

That's correct. The spacer is integral w/the rotor & not a bolt-on deal. Mine are 1pc as well (same as the 88).

Measure from the rotors surface to the wheel mounting surface & that's the track width difference between a dually & the single wheel 1-ton & 3/4-ton widths. That's how duallys run the dual style wheel up front.

When you're looking to go w/big truck 22's on a dually app, if it's a moderate drop (>6" up front), you'll want to narrow the track width (or you'll be into the fender lip w/the wheel). Mine are too close & I have 16's still but there's a difference when rubber buzzes the inner structure vs aluminum. So they switch to the 1-ton/3/4-ton single wheel rotors, add the 8-to-10 lug conversion adapters, & then utilize stretched a-arms to put the wheel right where they want it (or they opt to use shorter arms w/the dually front hub but are limited by how much they can narrow things up).