The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1947 - 1959 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-03-2015, 09:36 AM   #1
LDO
Registered User
 
LDO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Senatobia, MS
Posts: 1,297
Level Cab

So I replaced the cab to frame bushings with new ones on my 57. I assume that the cab should sit level on the frame from front to rear and left to right? If so, where would be a good point to put a level on it to ensure this?

After I replaced the bushings, my brake pedal rubs the firewall hole and my door to fender gaps have changed. Should I add shims until things are back to normal or break out my level or both?
LDO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2015, 09:57 AM   #2
2tractors
Registered User
 
2tractors's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Hawkinsville,Ga.
Posts: 65
Re: Level Cab

I don't have an answer but your thread has added another worry to my 57bbw build as soon the cab will come off. I'd try loosening and shifting to straighten out pedal problem. Let me know how you fixed it. Good luck
__________________
How to tell when your getting old--- Aunt B starts looking good!
2tractors is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2015, 12:27 PM   #3
dwcsr
Hollister Road Co.
 
dwcsr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Houston
Posts: 6,131
Re: Level Cab

The assembly manual tell you how to go about that and what measurement you should try to get
dwcsr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2015, 12:38 PM   #4
OrrieG
Registered User
 
OrrieG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Idaho
Posts: 8,800
Re: Level Cab

It sounds like this is a rolling truck or at least partially assembled? It is not uncommon for things to change after being altered over the years to accomodate the creeping bushing compression.

First get the frame level front to back and side to side. I have a bunch of cheap magnetic torpedo levels. Put one on the bottom of the frame under the cab on each side (or just behind the cab if the bed is off) and one across a front and rear crossmember. Then jack the corners until all are level. Then check level on the flat seam on the dash/cowl, and two raised cross sills in the cab, and cab floor between the cab to frame bolts. Check front to back at the top of the door step. All should be level with the frame.

The clutch/brake pedal interference can be fixed by loosening and moving the cab to center the holes. This will affect (and maybe improve) the fender to cab and hood to cab alignment, but you probably only have to move it 1/16" or so to get rid of the rubbing.

Once the cab is level you may need to adjust the radiator support to get the fender to door gaps right again. You could adjust cab, but then that may affect the cab alignment with the bed lines, best to start at the middle and adjust the ends! I went thru the same drill, all of my mounts were shot had to go thru the learning curve.
__________________
1959 Chevy Short Fleetside w/ 74 4WD drive train (current project) OrrieG Build Thread
1964 Chevelle Malibu w/ 355-350TH (daily driver)
Helpful AD and TF Manual Site Old Car Manual Project
OrrieG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2015, 01:05 PM   #5
LDO
Registered User
 
LDO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Senatobia, MS
Posts: 1,297
Re: Level Cab

Thanks Orrie.

Yes truck was assembled but now entire front clip is off and motor is out for IFS install.

I will get the frame level today so I can address the cab issues until the IFS kit is ordered and arrives.
LDO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2015, 02:31 PM   #6
MARTINSR
Registered User
 
MARTINSR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: Boise, Idaho
Posts: 6,003
Re: Level Cab

Quote:
Originally Posted by LDO View Post
So I replaced the cab to frame bushings with new ones on my 57. I assume that the cab should sit level on the frame from front to rear and left to right? If so, where would be a good point to put a level on it to ensure this?

After I replaced the bushings, my brake pedal rubs the firewall hole and my door to fender gaps have changed. Should I add shims until things are back to normal or break out my level or both?
Unless there is some serious difference for which you need to repair mounts or something there really is no reason to think too much about this. Put the bushings tighten the bolts up and there you have it. Any tiny difference is simply not going to make a big difference when you have all the other factors at play.

Brian
__________________
1948 Chevy pickup
Chopped, Sectioned, 1953 Corvette 235 powered. Once was even 401 Buick mid engined with the carburetor right between the seats!
Bought with paper route money in 1973 when I was 15.

"Fan of most anything that moves human beings"
MARTINSR is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2015, 02:53 PM   #7
mr48chev
Registered User
 
mr48chev's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Toppenish, WA
Posts: 15,709
Re: Level Cab

As Dave suggested there should be exact frame to bottom of cab measurements in the assembly manual or possibly the factory service manual.

I know that for us AD truck folks the factory assembly manual is a real headache saver along with the factory shop manual even if the truck is mostly custom.

Link to the factory assembly manual for a TF truck on Ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVROLET-TR...-/221365057465
__________________
Founding member of the too many projects, too little time and money club.

My ongoing truck projects:
48 Chev 3100 that will run a 292 Six.
71 GMC 2500 that is getting a Cad 500 transplant.
77 C 30 dualie, 454, 4 speed with a 10 foot flatbed and hoist. It does the heavy work and hauls the projects around.
mr48chev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-03-2015, 06:43 PM   #8
_Ogre
Registered User
 
_Ogre's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Motown
Posts: 7,680
Re: Level Cab

you can level everything and shim to fit and still have bad door/fender gaps
do you still have the stock trans x-member in place?
cutting it out can cause the front cab supports to sag

moving the cab up will require shimming the core support to get the fender/door gaps right
__________________
cool, an ogre smiley Ogre's 58 Truk build

how to put your truck year and build thread into your signature
shop air compressor timer
_Ogre is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:54 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com