Swap mount bolt on and go!

[Vandals909]

I'm sorry if this post irritates anyone but felt it needed to be cleared up.

I have searched other post and see that some mounts such as CCP sheet metal engine stands for a 1967-1972 when used with there sliders LS mounts have to be either modified by grinding a hump down and appears they need to be used in the v6 engine location hole on the frame which will require drilling for the second attachment point. Also have heard there are some alignment issues with them.


What is the best combination to use? 67-72 CPP engine stands with dirty dingo sliders?


I want to be able to buy all of the parts right the first time and bolt it in and go on from there.

Engine would be probably an ly6 with 6l80e


Please let me know from EXPERIENCE what works best without modification. I have no issues with relocating the a/c with the Holley brackets

[lutronjim]

I have a 'connect and cruise' lc9/65e installed. I purchased front mounts and rear member from MR muscle rods in Cumming, Ga. Bolted up with correct pinon angle.

http://www.brphotrods.com/mm5/mercha...gory_Code=CNV9

[MalibuSSwagon]

I just used Car Shop 1" set plates, part number CSP2370. Set the engine in perfectly, using the stock rubber mounts on frame and the stock clamshells on the engine side. Transmission and driveshaft fit right back in, re-using the stock 4 speed. Firewall clearance is good.

[Vandals909]

Thank you for the link! Those are pretty expensive. However those are some options I have not saw before.



Thanks

[Vandals909]

Anyone else have experience with a motor swap parts that work flawlessly without modification?

Again i plan to run a larger 4l80 or 6l80 transmission.

Thanks

[Vandals909]

Anyone else have a recommendation?

[crazy longhorn]

Originally Posted by Vandals909

Anyone else have a recommendation?

Set the engine /trans in, do your own measure....use the plates that will fit, or build your set? Put that eng /trans where you want it Longhorn

[chuckmc8]

I use 73-87 engine mount stands and dirty dingo slider adapters.

[Vandals909]

Chuck where do you buy your 73 engine stands? Do you have to do any drilling in the 67-72 frame to get the stand to work? what oil pan works with that setup without hanging low below the cross member?

Maybe a link to the dirty dingo sliders you use and a link to where you get the stands?

Appreciate all of the help.

[H20cooled]

I did the same as Chuck with 73+ stands. I bought a set from eBay for cheap, sand blasted them and painted and put in new Poly mounts.

I did have to drill 2 holes in the frame to get them to work but it was easy.

For oil pan I used a Cadilac CTSV pan that I bought from eBay as well with a new pickup tube and gasket. This pan worked great and its above the crossmember.

For the Dirty Dingo sliders go to their website and get the ones for the 73+ truck that slide. Thats it.

[chuckmc8]

Originally Posted by H20cooled

I did the same as Chuck with 73+ stands. I bought a set from eBay for cheap, sand blasted them and painted and put in new Poly mounts.

I did have to drill 2 holes in the frame to get them to work but it was easy.

For oil pan I used a Cadilac CTSV pan that I bought from eBay as well with a new pickup tube and gasket. This pan worked great and its above the crossmember.

For the Dirty Dingo sliders go to their website and get the ones for the 73+ truck that slide. Thats it.

Thanks H20 cooled. Saved me some typing! Ill add that I use TBSS exhaust manifolds and this is the basic recipe for my LS builds. If using the 67-72 engine stands the the exhaust manifolds won't clearance the top of the engine stands. The 73-87 are 'low slung' and work fine and are cheap. With the DD slider mounts, having ability to slide the engine back and forth on the mounts really helps getting it just right with various issues on the install.

Ive done the ac both ways-I have a 1970 with 6.0 w/ Denso factory compressor and a 71 C10 with 6.0 with the Holley Bracket and Sanden Compressor.
I wasn't thrilled with the Holley 'rabbit hole' that goes with it. First, the bracket is like $150- but then you have to buy another bracket kit from Holley that contains 2 adapters - one you use and unless you are running their left side brackets also- it goes into the $50 scrap pile. Then- you need a Holley or Corvette Idler, and a new serpentine belt- and a Sanden Compressor. that adds up real quick- in the $500 range. Then you have to figure out the bely size. What a pain! I called Holley and they were 'unconcerned' that their install kit was 50% throw away for folks who just buy the ac relocation bracket and was no help on the belt size. Really? Its a 6.0 standard truck motor with all stock accessories except their bracket.
I left the Denso in the stock location on my current 53 five window build. It does take a little more work to run the Denso in the 67-72 but it can be done, works fine, and IMO looks better. It surely makes the engine intake system easier! The Sanden compressor with the Holley Bracket is in the way of most intake configurations. Just my opinion from real experience not 'bench experience'

[Vandals909]

So just to be clear I need to 1973 mounts for my 1971 ls conversion and use the 1973 engine stands?

I need these right? Part # DD-2500C for my 2wd 1971 c10

http://dirtydingo.com/store/index.php?cPath=1_354_318

What part numbers do I need for my 71 off this page, to work with the dirty dingo 73 slider mounts?
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cc/full.aspx?Page=140

[H20cooled]

Originally Posted by Vandals909

So just to be clear I need to 1973 mounts for my 1971 ls conversion and use the 1973 engine stands?

I need these right? Part # DD-2500C for my 2wd 1971 c10

http://dirtydingo.com/store/index.php?cPath=1_354_318

What part numbers do I need for my 71 off this page, to work with the dirty dingo 73 slider mounts?
http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cc/full.aspx?Page=140

Those DD are the right ones but the ones on the LMC are not the right frame stands, they look like this one

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...1&d=1180569405

[H20cooled]

After looking closer at the page on LMC, those are the frame mount inserts that go in between the mounts so yes you would want those. I used the Poly ones. But you still need to get the frame mounts like you see in the link I posted.

[Vandals909]

Is this a good deal?

These are perfect for what I need right, 2wd for a V8. Does it matter if the truck was a 1500, 2500, or 3500? Again I plan to run a 4l80 or 6l80 transmission with a lq4 or ly6 style engine.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Motor...item41981931c5

I could not find anything else on LMC, Brothers or Thetruckshop.
Do any aftermarket companies sell them?

[H20cooled]

Originally Posted by Vandals909

Is this a good deal?

These are perfect for what I need right, 2wd for a V8. Does it matter if the truck was a 1500, 2500, or 3500? Again I plan to run a 4l80 or 6l80 transmission with a lq4 or ly6 style engine.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Motor...item41981931c5

I could not find anything else on LMC, Brothers or Thetruckshop.
Do any aftermarket companies sell them?

Looks just like the ones I got, I could not find them aftermarket anywhere. Might look in the classified on here too. But I think that is about what I paid.

This mount setup will work with an LS motor, and a 4l60/4l80 setup.

[lowlyfec10]

i have cpp sheetmetal stands with their poly mounts and slider plates. with lsa manifolds, the passenger side is close but doesnt touch, with ls3 camaro manifolds there is ample space. just make sure to not use the lil spacer plates with the mounts lol

[Vandals909]

Sorry to post again just want to make sure I have this right before spending the money.

These are the parts I need to put an LS into my 1971 C10 correct?

1973 dirty dingo ls swap mounts (different year then my truck) http://www.dirtydingo.com/shop/produ...oducts_id=1308

Best setup is to use 73-80's engine stand right? 2WD and does it matter which engine the 73-87 came with?

Where is a good source for the engine, frame mount/stand?

[Vandals909]

I PM'd a well known member here and he advised that for the 73+ engine stand It would be best to use a C20 or C30 engine stand. Here is his quote.

"If you want to use the better '73+ engine mounts, you will want the frame brackets from a '73-'86 C20,30 or a '87-'91 R2500/3500. Those brackets fit the '72 and earlier frames best. The C10 brackets are too tall and require a spacer on top of the frame."

Anyone use the c20 or c30 engine stand on a 67-72 with the dirty dingo sliders for a 73+?

thanks

[vannatta20]

The 73+ mounts take some force to work along with drilling some holes. Im too curious if the C20 or C30 would be better.

[Vandals909]

I did not know that the 73+ c10 engine stands needed work. It was my understanding that the ECE (early classic enterprise) LS swap kit were 73+ motor stands and didn't need any massaging

[Vandals909]

I'm wonder if getting the ECE kit minus the actual motor mount for the LS? Then using the dirty dingo slider would be the best route? Do anyone know of this combo will work together? ECE told me they didn't know as they have never tried it

[Vandals909]

H2Ocooled do you have a picture of your oil pan clearance? Looking at a CTSV Pan.

Does it matter what year the pan is from, for example a 2006 which had the Ls6 or a 2012 which has the 6.2l

Thanks

[H20cooled]

Originally Posted by Vandals909

H2Ocooled do you have a picture of your oil pan clearance? Looking at a CTSV Pan.

Does it matter what year the pan is from, for example a 2006 which had the Ls6 or a 2012 which has the 6.2l

Thanks

I don't have any pictures but I can tell you that it sits higher than the cross-member. As for the year I have not heard of any differences, I just went to eBay and bought one. This might help you out with them- http://ls1tech.com/forums/conversion...-oil-pans.html