55-59 CPU Rear axle Flip Kit

[NW Task Force]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

i'm not sure what you were expecting but lowering your truck usually lowers the truck

i also added air shocks to stiffen the ride, since the air shocks i rarely hit the stops

Yeah, I was expecting the truck to lower down, its the miss match of ride height that I was concerned about. My frontend is much higher than the rear now. I understand now that a 2 inch drop spindle kit might get me the stance I need to bring down the frontend. I am planning on removing the rear rubber bump stops and replacing them with something thinner.



I was wondering........what brand of air shocks are you running? I would be interested in a part number.

[Sambotic59]

this is my first time on this MB. love the info. This is my first post. I followed this setup as well and have the same issue with the bumpstops. how did you resolve this?

[_Ogre]

you have to c-notch the frame and move the bump stops outside the frame
otherwise you will be constantly on the frame or bump stops

[robnolimit]

Reasonably, 3+" from ride height is all you really need on the street. The shocks will be close to bottomed out anyway. opt.1 - use a sawzall and cut the bumpstop to appx 1/2" thick. opt.2 - buy some stud mount 1/2" thick bump stops and install. drill a new hole on the C.L. opt.3 - use the O.E. bumpstop, but make an angle iron mount to place it outboard on the chassis and higher.

[NW Task Force]

Originally Posted by Sambotic59

this is my first time on this MB. love the info. This is my first post. I followed this setup as well and have the same issue with the bumpstops. how did you resolve this?

I removed the stock bump stops and replaced them with thick rubber (mud flap) pieces. This works really well, especially since I am running air shocks to give myself several inches of space between the axle tube and bump stop area.

[TNBandit]

Just found this and it looks interesting. Buttt... When I went out and looked at my 56 there is a crossmember right where the rear shackles are riveted on. Are you guys who are doing this removing that crossmember ? I don't see one in the pics and it would also get in the way of the rear mounted gas tank. My truck is a 3200 series with a 123" wheelbase but I was planning to convert it to a short bed. Do I also need to move the rear crossmember rearward ? Post 1 the pic shows this crossmember removed. Post 55 (different truck) shows it still in place. Post 66, crossmember appears to have been moved to the rear. Clear as mud... What's the deal ? Removing it completely would severely weaken the frame and cause it to want to twist right where the rear hanger is attached. This is why GM put a crossmember in that location. Robnolimit what's the deal with that crossmember ? I realize that shortening the frame for the shortbed conversion happens directly behind the cab and is a completely different issue. My question pertains to the rearmost crossmember only. Thanks

[Sambotic59]

Thanks for the bump stop info guy... Think I am going to cut the factory bumstops off and mount them out board of the frame.

Another question.. does the No Limit kit have an offset ceter hole on the axle perch and leaf spring mounting plate? I basically fabbed up the same thing out of an old S10 leaf spring plate but the holes are centered. When i lowered the truck the wheel base measured 113 1/4". Factory is 114". Do I offset the hole and move it back or live with it?

I moved the rear cross member back... but only to make room for the fuel tank. (idea i got off another thread). I plan on boxing sections of the frame to strengthen where the leaf spring perch is mounted. I just plan to leave enough access to get to the bolts if needed.

This is my first automotive project though. Im a construction manager and am pretty good at working with wood and nails. This is my first time turning wrenches and metal fabricating... and so far i love it!! Thanks for all the info and help on here. Ill try to get some pics posted when it starts to look respectable.

[_Ogre]

the rear x-member is moved to fit a fuel tank behind the axle.

[papastrk]

When you consider flipping the rear shackle bracket upside down, understand that GM intended for the bracket to take the majority of the load and not the rivets. The rivets locate and attach the bracket to the frame rail, while the bracket, rails, and crossmember support the load. When you flip this bracket the majority of the load is placed on the bolts, not the bracket. The rear crossmember is placed between these brackets to prevent the frame from twisting and flexing from the load created by the outboard mounting of the leaf spring. You may never have a problem with this mounting, but know that when we modify things as we all do there may be problems. This is a cost effective mod, but it has it's drawbacks. 3 1/2" is a good axle tube to frame gap to shoot for. You may get by with less, but this is a safe spec. Notching frame/boxing can be a benefit here. Long wheelbase frames will need to be cut off at end when going short wheelbase, so remember when relocating crossmember on axle flip projects.

[1958Warrior]

TNBandit, I have a copy of the no limit tape, it shows (on a short bed) moving the cross brace back to another mounting hole on the frame, which I went and measured on mine and the hole is 3-3/4" back. your cross brace has some extra bracing on it ,more than likely due to being a long bed. I have some pics but site is doing some maintenance and can't load now. But they use the hole to locate it ,put a bolt in it to hold it and weld it in when done. They also show to box the frame from the shock mount crossmeber forward 16" to strengthen the frame.Was surprised they didn't install a C-notch , but now is the time to do it. It also , shows removing some springs and cutting the ones left to soften the ride. moving the hanger 3/4" forward rather than 5/8", anb to use FINE thread bolts and lock nuts , fine threads hold a lot better.
Forgot to mention with the frame leveled the pinion angle should be set at 2* down.

[1958Warrior]

I followed up with Ogre's suggestion and got all the U bolts plates and hardware and axle seats local at Southwest Wheel (local trailer supply here in Dallas) got everything for $25 picked up (would've been $40 shipped) Saved me A lot of $$$, and Speedway has the lowest price I could find on the spring liner material.

[_Ogre]

dang, i was ripped off
i often refer to it as my $29 flip kit

post up some pics as you flip it.

new u-bolts, spring pads and a plate is all that is needed.
this pic is when i was setting the pinion angle.
that is the stock 58 shock bracket.

[LDO]

Originally Posted by youngsta

Ask and you shall receive.

I know this is an old thread but anyone know the size of wheels and tires used on youngsta's truck?

[62 Barnfind]

I put a 2.5 on the front and a 4in drop on the rear of the 58 i'm working on. The rear is to high. What do you suggest to do to get it lower and level? Will the rear shackle flip do it or the full axle flip? Sorry about the pics. I only have two wheels so I had to do my best to balance it. As you can see in the one without the front fenders the rear is to high up.

[LDO]

did you flip the axle?

If so, you could try longer shackles to get the rear down more. Might give you about 2" (additional) if I recall....

Also I saw a flip kit that required no welding. The bracket has 'legs' that fit into the axle spring perch. Are these pretty good/safe/reiiable?

[_Ogre]

flipping the axle will give you approx a 7'' drop

[1958Warrior]

62 Barnfind : Your answer is in the thread ,as to how to/much to lower the rear

post#46

Originally Posted by robnolimit

Glad to see this being talked about. The numbers are the numbers. Flip the axle = 7" drop (on stock springs). If you flip the shackle assembly, it raises it 1 1/2" for a net of 5 1/2". The ride is better with the shackle flipped. It's only drill bits and bolts. DO IT !!!!

ps. by some teflon spring liner.

LDO : Yungsta hasn't posted in a few years might try to pm him
or search "what size tires are you running?" Or pics of , many threads with pics of wheels and tires

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by LDO

Also I saw a flip kit that required no welding. The bracket has 'legs' that fit into the axle spring perch. Are these pretty good/safe/reiiable?

that would only work with flipping the stock axle
imo... if you're going thru the trouble of flipping the axle go to a better gear and brakes

[LDO]

Sorry ogre, i should have been more specific I have a truck 12 bolt out of a 64 c10 under my 57 but it is mounted under the springs like the original.

[Fleet58]

Originally Posted by michaelnolimit

Here is No Limits axle flip kit. Very easy to install. On this truck we used a rear end housing out of a late 80's camaro. Heres how we did it.

#1 You must cut all camaro brackets off and clean housing so we can weld some new axle pads on the housing

#2 Unbolt old housing and the rear leaf spring hanger. Throw the stock housing away its no good unless your building a stock pickup.

#3 Remove the rivets holding the rear leaf spring hanger in place.

#4 Once the rivets are out Flip the shackel hanger so it now rests on top of the frame, Move it 5/8 of an inch forward, drill new holes and bolt it back in.

#5 Slide the new axle on the the leaf springs and reconnect the stock leaf springs to the now flipped shackle hanger.

#6 Now put your new axle pad under the axle and on top of the leaf, bolt the u bolts and the new u bolt plate with the shock mounts together and snugg. Dont tighten everything becuase you still need to center the housing and set the pinion angle. If its snugg you can still slide the axle side to side and adjust the pinion angle.

#7 after the housing is centered and the pinion has been set you can weld the axle pads to the housing and tighten up the ubolts.

#8 Bolt in the shocks and your done.

Posted via Mobile Device

[Fleet58]

Originally Posted by michaelnolimit

Here is No Limits axle flip kit. Very easy to install. On this truck we used a rear end housing out of a late 80's camaro. Heres how we did it.

#1 You must cut all camaro brackets off and clean housing so we can weld some new axle pads on the housing

#2 Unbolt old housing and the rear leaf spring hanger. Throw the stock housing away its no good unless your building a stock pickup.

#3 Remove the rivets holding the rear leaf spring hanger in place.

#4 Once the rivets are out Flip the shackel hanger so it now rests on top of the frame, Move it 5/8 of an inch forward, drill new holes and bolt it back in.

#5 Slide the new axle on the the leaf springs and reconnect the stock leaf springs to the now flipped shackle hanger.

#6 Now put your new axle pad under the axle and on top of the leaf, bolt the u bolts and the new u bolt plate with the shock mounts together and snugg. Dont tighten everything becuase you still need to center the housing and set the pinion angle. If its snugg you can still slide the axle side to side and adjust the pinion angle.

#7 after the housing is centered and the pinion has been set you can weld the axle pads to the housing and tighten up the ubolts.

#8 Bolt in the shocks and your done.

Michael, my question was, why do you move the hanger 5/8" forward?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Coupeguy2001]

Barn find,
i used 3" dropped springs from "The Truck Shop" in so. california, and made 1 1/2" longer shackles out of 7/16 plate steel.
Dropped the rear 4 1/2 inches. it is still just a tad high, but it is all I can do unless I install a 2" C notch.

[LDO]

FYI,
Nolimit no longer makes the rear axle flip kits. boooo!

[_Ogre]

all the other vendors make axle flip kits and charge $79 or more
put your own kit together for $29 (or $25 for 58warrior)

like all other ''kits that don't require any fabrication, you can save a bundle putting together your own kit
i can put together my own ss bed bolt ''kit'' for less than the steel bolts kits cost

fyi, michael hasn't been at nolimit for years, pm rob, the owner if you need info