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12-12-2015, 12:05 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: effingham illinois
Posts: 26
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quick tcase drop question
I'm half sure I know the answer but I wanna make sure. I have a 87 1/2 ton with 3/4 axles bla bla bla anyways I got it with a very poor lift on and and I'm slowly redoing everything. now it came with a transfer case drop on it. if I'm right that's for the rear driveshaft mostly and hurts the front. I'm doing 8 inch springs with a 1 inch zerorate just b/c I have it. I think to help the front driveshaft I need to take the tcase drop off the truck and raise it back up. am I right? thanks
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12-12-2015, 12:15 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Mobile, Al
Posts: 92
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Re: quick tcase drop question
You are correct.
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John '91 Blazer, full top, bbc, 4spd, Doubler, 1 tons, 40's |
12-12-2015, 12:16 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: effingham illinois
Posts: 26
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Re: quick tcase drop question
I was 95% sure I was just wanted to be 100% before I removed it. thank you
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12-16-2015, 05:56 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Los Angeles area :(
Posts: 499
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Re: quick tcase drop question
I don't see the T-case drop hurting the front shaft with an 8" lift. The reason the drop hurts the front shaft is because they tend to be fairly straight (the shaft), so the operating angles of the joints don't see a lot of movement. Dropping the case would bring the shaft closer to straight. A u-joint that doesn't see a lot of movement tends to seize up faster than one that does. My s10 rear shaft did just that cause they used a CV for something that has almost no angle. After it seized, I went to a single joint, effectively asking it to move more than the double joint I pulled out.
For something with 8" of lift, you'll have plenty of angle on the front joints. I would use that zero rate to push the axle forward 1.5", helping reduce the angle a tiny bit.
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'68 C10 SWB '85 K30 Blazer |
12-16-2015, 06:01 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: effingham illinois
Posts: 26
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Re: quick tcase drop question
Well the joint that was coming from the transfer case was almost pointed up then driveshaft went back down sharply tward the axle. But I took it off and looks much better now. But redoing the lift yet again. Adding 4 inchs more I think ended up with some tires I didn't plan on getting that's bigger then I wanted
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12-16-2015, 06:02 PM | #6 |
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Los Angeles area :(
Posts: 499
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Re: quick tcase drop question
If you are well underway with the 8", great, but if you aren't, consider a smaller lift spring with a block or body lift. It will ride better with less negative affects.
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'68 C10 SWB '85 K30 Blazer |
12-16-2015, 06:05 PM | #7 |
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: Los Angeles area :(
Posts: 499
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Re: quick tcase drop question
that makes sense
I always look at it getting straighter I skipped all that lol, I'm clocked flat and sucked into the floor with a big hole hahaha I have nothing below the frame
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'68 C10 SWB '85 K30 Blazer |
12-16-2015, 07:02 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: effingham illinois
Posts: 26
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Re: quick tcase drop question
Currently the truck has 8 inch front superlift springs and the rear is a shackle flip and (for now) a block. Thinking of adding front perch mount drop with extended shackles. If I do that I'm doing a 6 inch rear spring with a extended shackle. Not totally worried about ride as its going to spend 95% of its lift off-road just don't want it to beat me to death to bad.
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12-17-2015, 05:58 AM | #9 |
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Tell City, IN
Posts: 637
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Re: quick tcase drop question
I have your same setup, except I have 4" block, 4" hanger flip, and a 4" spring. Anyway, after trimming my little nubs on a lengthened shaft all was very well.
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Big Nate Carp. Local 224. Buy made in the USA! 03 F350 6.0 Daily Race Truck. 79 C70 366 Project Dump. |
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