Temp Sender on 283 V8

[bogape]

1958 with 283 V8
I can't get the temperature gauge to work. If I short the wire from sender it goes all the way up so wiring and gauge seem to be ok.. I replaced the sender but still it doesn't move.
I just bought a normal small block sender, maybe this doesn't have the correct range?
Any quick advice before I start messing around with a multimeter and boiling water pan on the hob!

thanks
Nick

[nvrdone]

if you used thread sealer / tape that will cause the sender not to ground, therefore no signal. Just an idea

[bogape]

ah.. really good idea! that must be it
didn't use anything but the hole might be corroded/painted/something else..
will try grounding the body of the sensor...


(hopefully) thanks!

[_Ogre]

I just bought a normal small block sender

it should look like this one, used for most gm applications 56 thru 78
http://www.classicparts.com/1956-72-.../#.Vp0YQPkrJpg

[bogape]

Thanks for suggestions...

The ground was ok...
you'd have thought the range would be the same or similar, i.e open circuit for totally cold and shorted for v hot...
will take out the sender and have a look at what I bought..

[OrrieG]

Like you said multimeter and boiling water test, a relatively large number of chinese electrical components are sold bad, or fail quickly. Standard, Belden, etc. still make quality stuff available from NAPA or commercial jobbers.

[oilslicktg]

Originally Posted by bogape

1958 with 283 V8
I can't get the temperature gauge to work. If I short the wire from sender it goes all the way up so wiring and gauge seem to be ok.. I replaced the sender but still it doesn't move.
I just bought a normal small block sender, maybe this doesn't have the correct range?
Any quick advice before I start messing around with a multimeter and boiling water pan on the hob!

thanks
Nick

You said - you short the wire and the sender goes all the way up , wiring and gauge seem to be ok. A short is none or a very small amount of resistance. A high resistance would be cold and no resistance when hot, as the resistance decreases current can flow. You would think it is the opposite. Is there a resistor on the back of the gauge? Good Luck.

[_Ogre]

sounds like you have a temp sensor for an idiot light

[dsraven]

I think ogre got it right. ask for a sender for a gage type dash instead of an idiot light dash. the gage is basically a mechanism between two electro magnets. one magnet is fixed strength and the other magnet changes with how much ground the sender makes available. if you ground the sender wire the gage goes off the end of the scale and if you disconnect the wire from the sender and don't connect it the gage should bury itself in the opposite end of the scale. it depends on which magnet is stronger to pull the needle mechanism over.

[mr48chev]

Ogre hit it I believe.

There is a pretty good temp sender tutorial here. The AC Delco G1852 is the same one your truck calls for for the gauge.
http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...eCF-Thread.pdf

[midnight rambler]

Following keep us updated

[bogape]

I think the sensor is a TS6 which I believe is for a gauge.

I did the pan and multimeter test..
The signal goes from open circuit to about 200 ohms as it warms up, then gradually drops fairly linearly, to 82 ohms when it doesn't go any further. I guess if it was under pressure the temp would go further and ohms would drop more.

Then connected it back on truck to the gauge and with an earth, and the gauge didn't move in hot water or even with a bit of blow torch heat!

I am now thinking the gauge is faulty..it didn't work with the original sender.
It does go right across with a short but still i think it isn't working correctly.