Components for column signal selector

[BMSJaX]

The column selector components were completely removed from my truck for some push button switches. I want the original column style back. What parts do I need to buy?(truckstop is my vendor choice) and does anyone have a picture of how it goes in or a diagram?

[TheDark1]

I am in the process of changing my switch out as we speak. When the parts get here I'll let you know what they look like (quality or junk) and show you how they go back in. Jeff

[LILRED66]

Depending on the number of gears your automatic has and whether it is a factory 2-speed Powerglide or a 3-speed Turbo HydraMatic, will determine which indicator & housing you need from the Truck and Car Shop.

factory 2-speed Powerglide #62-068171 Shift Indicator Lense $6.00 + tax + shipping.
factory 2-speed Powerglide #62-068151 Shift Indicator Housing $8.00 + tax + shipping.

They do not sell the lense and housing for the factory 3-speed Turbo HydraMatic, however, they do offer:

#60-069023 Column Shift Indicator Kit for a 3-speed auto $69.00 + tax +shipping.
#60-069024 Column Shift Indicator Kit for a 4-speed auto $96.00 + tax + shipping.

[TheDark1]

My appologies, I am changing the turn signal selector out.

[mbgmike]

We sell these for chevy and GMC


left is chev
right is GMC
These are exact Guide reproductions. The same ones manufactured for and used by flaming river and Ididit. We buy them from the Mfg. Made in USA
Quality is unsurpassed

[BMSJaX]

Yes the turn selector is what I am looking for. The truck was converted to four on the floor so I do not need the gear selector. though it does bring up a question too, lets say I throw in a 700R4 or more likley a TH350 would I be able to install and use a stock four on the tree shift selector?

So TheDark1 let me know, with pictures if you have, what is all needed, thanks!

[TheDark1]

You got it big daddy. I'll be working on it in the next few days, I hope. jeff

[TheDark1]

Here you go. This is what I started with. A good plug from the truck. I pre-tested the switch before I installed it to make sure it worked.



There aren't many parts. I had the three original screws that hold it in place, a note pad and the switch kit.



The screw are an inch in length on the threads.



I made a diagram of which wires go where on the plugs. One plug has a notched side and the other doesn't.




Placing a small screw driver in behind the connector releases the "tang" that holds the wire in the plug

[TheDark1]

After you release the wires from the plug, tape them together loosly. You'll need to flatten them out and thread them into the column.




Loosly taped wires.




Through the first part of the column. You can see here where I tried to break the column cover apart at the seam. This one is tack welded together, that's why I took the wires out of the plug assmembly. If yours will come apart at the seam, the you can just slide the wires through there. My other column wasn't welded, if I remember correctly.




Through the second part of the column.




Install the screws that hold it to the column. The hole on the left was large enough to pass the screw in from the top. On the original switch, you would have to take the switch apart to get it in. It would go between the stationary part and the "rocker" part. Make sure the switch sits flat against the column where it mounts. If you use the screws to pull it in, you might break the screw boss off. That's why I'm changing mine!!

[TheDark1]

Put the wires back into the plugs like your diagram that you made shows. They just slide back in the plug.




Install the lever and test it out. Then replace your steering wheel.



AWESOME!! Have a cigar.

[LILRED66]

FYI, the factory plugs are curved like that, to allow them to be fished into the bonnet and mast jacket cover, so you don't need to pull the wires from the plugs, in order to replace the turn signal harness. The bonnet will turn and release from the column assembly and the mast jacket cover then slides off the mast jacket and the factory plugs will fish into the curved slots in the bonnet, through the mast jacket cover and to the wire keeper under the dash. The sub-assembly can then be reinstalled onto the column, without removing the column or the wires from the connectors.

[BMSJaX]

Ok looks easy enough, just a couple questions. Did the new assembly come with the bearing? and what about the cancelling cam? i dont have an original wheel so I dont think it'd work anyways... and i dont have the factory connector on my truck so I'm gonna have to figure another way with that any ways(has aftermarket wiring harness) and I think I will have a cigar when I'm done!

[TheDark1]

Yes it did come with the new bearing, like you see it in the photo is the way I got it. The cancelling cam was bought separately. If you have an adaptor like the one for my wheel in the second to last picture, the cancelling cam will bolt to it.

Yeah, Tony I've fished them through the column before, I just found that on a new plug it's quicker for me to dis-assemble the plug. It only took about 30 seconds to undo it. Thanks though. I still need a price on those slot mags from you too, jeff

[protrash64]

I did this same thing awhile back and its fairly straight-forward. I would also add to TheDark1's list lubing the cancelling cam with some type of grease. It helped my mechanism move much more smoothly. It only takes a dab.

Nice install guide, TheDark1, by the way.

[TheDark1]

The lube is a good idea. I went and put some on as soon as read this so I wouldn't forget. I put a little dielectric grease on the brass contact ring for the horn also.jeff

[BMSJaX]

Alright so first off i'm not too impressed with the Truck Shop. It took a week for the parts to get here(I live 20min away) everytime I called the store a female voice would give me the business hours then hang up on me(tried multiple times during the stated hours of business no one ever answered) then I emailed them asking if someone could get back to me as to whether or not the package had been sent and received no reply) (I have had problems getting packages so if they do not arrive within a day or two of a store in the area I have to get on it and find out what happened or they get lost for good)

Now I have an after market wiring harness so I was looking at my wiring diagram to see how to get it hooked up and I cant quite figure out which wires are for what.(I.E. power, ground, left/right lights, etc) anyone know for sure or can pull out their DMM and check wires for me?

[BMSJaX]

This is what I have so far:
BLK- Horn
BL/WH- Front LH lights and indicator
BLK/DBL- Front RH light and indicator
GRN/WH- ? Goes to fuse panel
PPL- ? Goes to fuse panel
BLK/WH- Rear LH light
BLK/YLW- Rear RH light

What are the two unknowns for? Are they both hot? And where is the signal relay in all this, it is not in my diagram but it wont work with out it...

[bosephus]

Nice instruction thread Dark1.I gotta get a sign for my garage like the one in reply#10!

[TheDark1]

Yeah, I didn't see that until after I had posted it and I couldn't delete it. I hope I don't offend anyone......errr, actually I don't care.

[idaho66stepside]

very helpful

[Palf70Step]

[LostMy65]

Saved for reference

[Tazimafied]

Originally Posted by BMSJaX

This is what I have so far:
BLK- Horn
BL/WH- Front LH lights and indicator
BLK/DBL- Front RH light and indicator
GRN/WH- ? Goes to fuse panel
PPL- ? Goes to fuse panel
BLK/WH- Rear LH light
BLK/YLW- Rear RH light

What are the two unknowns for? Are they both hot? And where is the signal relay in all this, it is not in my diagram but it wont work with out it...

Looking at my wiring diagram I got from LMC for my '64:

PPL(purple)-----Fuse Panel
B(black)---------Horn
DBL(dark blue)--Front Right Turn
LBL(light blue)--Front Left Turn
W(white)--------Stop Light Switch
DG(dark green)-Right Rear Turn
Y(yellow)--------Left Rear Turn

These are the factory colors and should be what comes with the new switch. You just have to figure out which wires to connect to on your aftermarket harness.

[Tazimafied]

Originally Posted by BMSJaX

though it does bring up a question too, lets say I throw in a 700R4 or more likley a TH350 would I be able to install and use a stock four on the tree shift selector?

I believe you can use the stock auto column for anything from a powerglide to a 4 speed. I know I saw it somewhere but can't find it at the moment. You would just have to buy the appropriate shift indicator.