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02-23-2004, 01:24 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Sugar Land, TX
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tools for spring/ball joint/tie rod replacement
In replacing the control arm bushings, ball joints, and tie rod (inner and outer) ends, what special tools do I need? Can I rent these from a local auto shop (oreilly/autozone/pepboys, etc)?
Thanks. |
02-23-2004, 01:30 AM | #2 |
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last time i replaced/took apart the front end of a 73-87 we didnt need any special tools. balls joints and tie rods will come out with a good wack from a BFH. thought they do sell/rent ball joint/tie rod seperator. you can also rent spring compressors, but i have always used a floor jack below the control arm and just lower it slowly..
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Jon 1982 Chevy Silverado 350/th350.... RETIRED 1993 Jeep XJ 2 door(Cherokee) 4wd 4.0ltr/AX-15 (5spd)/NP231 .... Oklahoma Roll Call |
02-24-2004, 01:56 AM | #3 |
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Location: San Antonio, TX
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I replaced the ball joints on my 77, and used a ball joint separator, and it was tight going out and in. I was sore fater that. Many auto parts stores loan those out, but you have to cough up a 80 or so deposit. I don't like hammering on things, sooner or later you'll screw u[p, and with my luck, I'll find out when I'm going about 80mph, and that's a bad time.
Do it right, do it once. |
02-24-2004, 10:09 PM | #4 |
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I have a seperator for ball joints and barely use it, Apply pressure to, well say tierod end by ujoint, take ball peen hammer and hit on the flat side of where the ball joint goes through it is usually easier than using the seperator, Lower ball joint, support truck on jack stand take wheel and lower ball joint nut off, support lower arm slightly turn wheel away to get a swing at it with a hammer and hit flat spot where ball joint goes through. once the lower is off you can let down jack to pull spring out.
I have not really seen a spring compressor that works with these type of springs very well. there isn't much room to get anything descent in there to work with. |
02-25-2004, 12:41 AM | #5 |
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I've got car jack stands (meaning they're short) and I always have the problem of where to put the jack stands on the front.
Where should I put them normally and where should I put them for this? Thanks for all the help!! |
02-25-2004, 10:36 AM | #6 |
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I usually put them back by the cab, where the trans and block line up. Here a little shot with my new IFS setup I am installing
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02-25-2004, 11:24 AM | #7 |
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Ahhh, thanks on the jack stands. Is that just a 2x4?
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02-25-2004, 12:39 PM | #8 |
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yes thats a 2x4, but i think thats supporting his trans. when i helped a buddy (Ocbaud) do his front end we just placed the jack stands on the front by the bumper.
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Jon 1982 Chevy Silverado 350/th350.... RETIRED 1993 Jeep XJ 2 door(Cherokee) 4wd 4.0ltr/AX-15 (5spd)/NP231 .... Oklahoma Roll Call |
02-25-2004, 02:34 PM | #9 |
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Actually the 2x4 is bolted to the frame. This is generally where I support the front end if I need to jack it up so I can get under it with out having to move hoses or other things, there far enough back to support front without getting in the way but where ever you feel more comfortable putting them and it's safe..
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02-25-2004, 03:47 PM | #10 |
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I replaced my ball joints and the tie rod ends last weekend.
See the big C clamp looking thing in the bottom of the picture? O'reilly's loans that out for around 200.00(deposit) for 48 hours. Ball Joint/U-joint removal/install tool. Easiest Ball joints I have ever done. I did use the BFH, but it was knocking the rivets out of the top after I ground off the heads. |
02-28-2004, 12:34 AM | #11 |
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you can't go wrong with BUYING tools if you see youself fooling with cars the rest of your life!!! just don't go to 2or3movies and you've got the price of the tools and you can always watch the movies next year on cable
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02-29-2004, 09:58 AM | #12 | |
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Quote:
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02-29-2004, 10:38 PM | #13 |
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
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I just replaced my drag link ends and too get them loose I loosened the nuts. Then I start the truck and rotate the wheel back n forth and they both popped loose. Only needed a 15/16 th socket/ratchet and big screw driver (loosen adj. sleeve).
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
03-01-2004, 12:02 AM | #14 |
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Location: Sugar Land, TX
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what are drag link ends??
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03-01-2004, 07:16 AM | #15 |
user # 2756
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
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On a 4wd the drag link connects the steering gear box to the steering knuckle. 2wds don't have them, but I thought the trick could help you w/ your tie rod ends. The drag link ends are just like tie rod ends.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
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