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#1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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Re: Pulling engine
if you need the cub scout troop to help move an engine on a cherry picker you should not be messin with an engine change// imo
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71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
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#2 | |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Gods country East,Tn
Posts: 8,545
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Re: Pulling engine
Quote:
![]() Sometimes you have to remember there are young men in here who have never pulled an engine let alone work a "cherry picker" by themselves .Think safety not bravado and live longer . It only takes one small mistake to have it land in your lap .we did a lot of things "back in the day " that wouldn't even be considered today .
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![]() 1967 Factory short bed - Old school '71 - 350 / 4bolt / 487 heads / Edelbrock C3BX Muncie M-22 4 speed / Hurst Comp plus Factory 12 bolt posi 3.73 / 255-70-15 Smoothed firewall / Factory cowl induction Power disc brakes / power steering / 3.5-5" drop |
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#3 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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Re: Pulling engine
Quote:
__________________
71c-10 350/2004r/4:11 lowered3/4 longbed/dead by hurricane MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY |
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#4 | |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Gods country East,Tn
Posts: 8,545
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Re: Pulling engine
Quote:
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__________________
![]() 1967 Factory short bed - Old school '71 - 350 / 4bolt / 487 heads / Edelbrock C3BX Muncie M-22 4 speed / Hurst Comp plus Factory 12 bolt posi 3.73 / 255-70-15 Smoothed firewall / Factory cowl induction Power disc brakes / power steering / 3.5-5" drop |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Central Coast, CA
Posts: 501
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Re: Pulling engine
My two cents is to remove the grill and core support - and if you have an engine load leveler ($26 at Harbor Fright) remove and install the motor and trans as a unit.
I was glad I did it this way because once the core support was out I found the rustiest area on my whole truck under the part of the core support that was covered by the inner fender. This rust appeared to be caused by battery vapors but nothing that a little trip through the electrolysis tank and some undercoating couldn't take care of (for ten more years anyway). Also the core support rubber bushings are cheap and critical to the alignment of many of your front body panels so it is a good opportunity to replace those. After all the worst case is you lift that whole 700+ pound mass over the core rather than unbolting it - and then two months later unbolt the core to change out your bushings cause your fenders and hood and doors aren't lining up right. Also on the TH350 the aluminum case is much weaker than the cast iron motor so if the two are already bolted together as you are cranking them around into position to mate them up you won't be stressing those tabs on the transmission where it bolts to the motor (as much - and especially not individually)..as you try to maneuver the engine into position on the trans. I did my own motor/trans R&R by myself - one mistake I made was to fill the motor with oil and install the big long oil filter... well it turned out the filter was right in the way when I tried to tilt the thing into position... so next time I'll leave the filter and oil for last.. Also it is a heck of a lot easier to clean things without the core support installed.. Photos of rusty core support, electrolysis, newly undercoated core, and new and old core support bushing photos attached.. |
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