Our most annoying enemy... Rust.

[Roadkillerv8]

Hey all, ive posted my truck on here a few times and know how imgoing to take car of my rust, i just dont have the time or money to do it at the moment. Itll get taken care of in the summer once class is out. However im getting tired of it just sitting under a tarp for days on end waiting for the rain to stop. Is there anything i can lather on this to keep it from rusting worse thatll just be sanded or cut out later? I want to drive it, but i dont want the rust running down the a pillar if its not already gotten that bad.

[Roadkillerv8]

Another. Sorry if its sideways too. And yes the truck has been 3 colors and not sanded down once, wasnt my decision.

[Grumpy old man]

if the top of your windshield is already rusting you can pretty much bet the bottom is worse , as a temp fix clean the area as best as you can and spray some rattle can PAINT not primer over the area and any type 100 % silicone sealer , the dollar store for all this temp fix stuff cheap less than $10.00 , this is only a temp fix / repair until you can have the time to do it right .

[swamp rat]

You need to kill the rust with a treatment like Ospho or Rust Mort ect.

[Roadkillerv8]

Ive heard of rust mort before, how does one use it? The instructions on the bottle are vague.

[special-K]

Actually, there are many ways to temporarily stabilize the rust.

Originally Posted by swamp rat

You need to kill the rust with a treatment like Ospho or Rust Mort ect.

There ya go. Just spray or brush a rust treatment to stabilize it. Permatex works well and is found about anywhere. There are many brands and variations. It doesn't leave the crusty white crud. No matter, because once you go to fixing it that will be the first thing to grand/blast off when you go to repair it. This stuff is good for months, turns it black and is like a shellac over it to seal from moisture. I spray that stuff on the old signs and iron artifacts I have mounted outside a few times a year, as well as doing what you need to do. Later on, if for some reason (probably not in this case) an area goes unstripped it's ok to prime and paint. No issues that come with silicone residue

[57taskforce]

I would not use silicone on the area. If you've ever tried to paint anything that's been anywhere near silicone you already know why, it will fish eye bad. Like said above a rust converter is a much better bet.

[Grumpy old man]

The op posted he had no time and no money ,Wanted to drive his truck . it has a long way to go before being painted so there's no reason to worry about silicone contamination when the water is running in . it's a cheap /fast get it on the road fix .

[special-K]

I'm not sure he's even driving it. Are you talking silicone lube or caulk? All silicone is a no-no when paint is concerned and it doesn't matter how old it is. It doesn't dissolve or break down. If you are talking caulk there are better alternatives. I use a tri-polymer urethane caulk that does anything silicone claims better, it is paintable, and cost about the same . Google Geocel 2300.

But the OP didn't say anything about sealing it up, he wants to stabilize the rust. All silicone lube does is repel water for a little while, not chemically change iron oxide. I'm not trying to be contrary, just give good advise. But I do beg to differ on your "the only way" remark. Heck, mix linseed oil and mineral spirits and brush it on to seal it up.

[In The Ten Ring]

I have used NAPA Rust Treatment (Permatex) as a form of primer before spray painting my truck parts.

That does look bad there! I'd plan on getting a new cab (what I am hoping to do) but someone on here can tell you better I am sure, I am new to this sort of thing.

I do know the NAPA version isn't supposed to go onto rubber. The can says so.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

One of the beauties of a garage in a dry climate and not washing the body in two decades (pending restoration) is so far not an ounce of rust. Will know for certain when the cowl and windows are removed, but I'll be surprised to find any.

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by special-K

I'm not sure he's even driving it. Are you talking silicone lube or caulk? All silicone is a no-no when paint is concerned and it doesn't matter how old it is. It doesn't dissolve or break down. If you are talking caulk there are better alternatives. I use a tri-polymer urethane caulk that does anything silicone claims better, it is paintable, and cost about the same . Google Geocel 2300.

But the OP didn't say anything about sealing it up, he wants to stabilize the rust. All silicone lube does is repel water for a little while, not chemically change iron oxide. I'm not trying to be contrary, just give good advise. But I do beg to differ on your "the only way" remark. Heck, mix linseed oil and mineral spirits and brush it on to seal it up.

"However im getting tired of it just sitting under a tarp for days on end waiting for the rain to stop. Is there anything i can lather on this to keep it from rusting worse thatll just be sanded or cut out later? I want to drive it."

Looks like all he wants to do is drive it ?


"this is only a temp fix / repair until you can have the time to do it right" .

[Thanos]

Evapo rust is fantastic, to use it on a body just soak towels in it and lay them on it (as long as its cool out side) it will eat all the rust away. You can use magnets as well.

The stuff is kinda pricey though and not sold in a lot of stores.Research feed grade molasses it will surprise you!

[Grumpy old man]

It seems the Vette boys are playing with Molasses for rust removal ,It's not just for breakfast anymore !

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/...t-removal.html

[toolboxchev]

The best thing you could do is park it in the garage. 2nd best coat it with undercoating to prevent further damage.

[GRX]

Another vote for the Permatex rust treatment. In my experience the liquid works much better than spray. Clean the area of all oils & contaminants, apply VERY thick with a brush, then wait for the color changes to eventually black.

[special-K]

Yeah, I use both. I like the spray for pre-paint treatment because you can go right over it, and for a convenient occasional shot on weathering painted steel, like my wall ornament hubcaps. I use the brush on for heavier coating, longer lasting, and basically when I use it I go around with what's left over and use it up on the stuff I spray. When I had projects in waiting I'd do the brush on for longer results and the best protection. It's also messier, tends to run down and stain where the spray is like paint and you can mist it on

[swamp rat]

There is nothing good enough out there to stop water getting in your truck or to stop the rust besides a tear down and total rust repair or a new cab. Now the doors, fenders and bed are probably a different story, treat everything that has rust with the products mentioned above.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=692332
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