Scored a FREE Power Window Kit!

[blown240]

My buddy has this power window kit that he ended up not using in his Datsun B210 project, so he gave it to me!

Its a universal kit from speedway, and looks pretty straight forward. I did some looking and can't seem to find if anyone has used on of these on our trucks. Specifically a 61.

Is there anything I need to be aware of before I start installing them? Im doing all new window seals at the same time.....

[RANDY COX]

KOOL can't beat FREE..

[Clyde65]

I used one similar on my 65. Was a real B to get things right. I didnt like it and took it out and sold it.

[blown240]

Thats a bummer! Hopefully I can get these to work at least decently.

[chevy_mike]

Problem with these types is they are universal, which means they don't fit anything.

An old saying I have heard, "just because it is free, doesn't mean it's good". The type works great in early hot rods with flat doors and small windows. Good luck.

[slepysal]

I say give it a try, if it takes to much to install you can always sell them !

[Grandpa54]

I AM CURRENTLY PUTTING A SET OF THESE IN MY PANEL, THEY ARE TRULY BOLT IN http://www.nu-relics.com/Power-Windo...ucks-s/241.htm

[64shortbox]

I too installed a universal type power window kit in my 64 C-10. Yes it was a PITA to get it all lined up and working correctly. Make sure your window kit travels up and down far enough so your windows will fully open and close. I had more than enough track for my application. I removed the window then removed the factory window regulator assembly. I bolted a piece of 1 1/2" aluminum flat bar to the bottom of the window track bar installed it back in the truck & held the window up using a pair of cheap Harbor freight clamps http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-ra...der-62122.html and a couple pieces of wood to clear the door frame. I let the power window assembly "hang" from the window and made spacers out of nylon round stock to space the track from the door. It's quite a bit more involved than this but this is the basics how I did it. The supplied power window switches mounted in the holes for original window cranks but I had top enlarge the drivers side one for the double switches.

[Clyde65]

Btw, you will need new windows about 1" longer as well. I didnt like the fact that you had to drill holes in the door...

[blown240]

I don't mind drilling holes behind the door panel. I need to replace all the window seals anyway, so Ill see what I can get done...

[Clyde65]

Not just behind the door panel. You have to drill holes down low to attach and secure the motow and tail thingy. Also you may need to remove the window stops inside the door aswell...

[64shortbox]

As Clyde65 stated the window stops will need to be drilled out and yes you will need to drill holes in the door past the door panel. The Previous Owner of my truck had the door panels upholstered & had the door carpeted below the door panel so that covered my lower holes. Also as Clyde65 stated the windows need to be about 1" longer. This weekend I discovered I gave you some wrong info. I used 2" wide aluminum flat bar bolted that to the bottom window channel then bolted the power window track to the flat bar - I guess you could use the supplied pinch type clamp - but I wanted it bolted. The 2" aluminum flat bar acted as a spacer so it wasn't necessary to have new glass cut. Hope this helps some.

[blown240]

Thanks for the info 64shortbox! I was thinking of making an aluminum spacer
Like you used.

[Cape Codder]

Keep in mind the manual crank windows mechanisms if cleaned and lubed every 20 years are trouble free. The Chinese aftermarket plastic crap might work a year or two.