NV3500 4x4 Help.

[74CustomK20]

Guys I'm in need of assistance, no surprise right... Anyway I'm going to do a NV3500 4x4 swap on my k30, which now has a 465-205 setup. The clutch and flywheel will swap, and it will all bolt in I have the right crossmember. But the questions in my grey area is the hydraulic swap. How does this attach to the pedal, or can I use my manual pedal? I've been looking up swaps on the search forum but couldn't find this area in any threads... anyone help?

[JIMs70GMC]

From my experience you would need a pedal assembly from a newer 85+ truck that had a hydraulic clutch. The clutch master cylinder rod goes through the firewall and connects to the pedal assembly about an inch from the pedal piviot point. When I did my swap the firewall was pre-stamped with the location of the clutch master cylinder. I don't think you will have the similar firewall markings. I have a build thread going in the 4x4 area and you can look at my pics. You might have to fab something up.

[74CustomK20]

That's my thoughts too, unfortunately. As much as I enjoy fabbing, it's just so much easier to bolt on and go... oh well! I think I have a pedal from a 96 from the donor manual truck have to look and see... either that or modify my pedal. Dang hydraulic assembly for square bodies are stupid expensive but we'll see. Ordered a pre-bled line and master cylinder for it so no worries bout bleeding it, I hope! When it gets here I'll post pics of what I do, or swap pedals, one of the 2!

[D13]

Surprised by using a 3500 in a K30. Isn't that a little light for that application? I thought the factory ones were 4500's.

Other option is get a Wildwood clutch master and fab your own linkage.

[74CustomK20]

Mine was factory a 465-205. But I'm loosing it for overdrive. With 4.10 and 35's that should be the sweet spot for my rpm in 4th on the highway and 5th on interstate. Plus the most I will ever haul is hay on my 16' trailer. Stock motor... actually the only 1 ton parts are the frame, cab, and rear end. A nv4500 from the gmt400 platform around here is stupid expensive like a Dana 60. Both around 1500 bucks a piece.

[bluex]

Originally Posted by 74CustomK20

That's my thoughts too, unfortunately. As much as I enjoy fabbing, it's just so much easier to bolt on and go... oh well! I think I have a pedal from a 96 from the donor manual truck have to look and see... either that or modify my pedal. Dang hydraulic assembly for square bodies are stupid expensive but we'll see. Ordered a pre-bled line and master cylinder for it so no worries bout bleeding it, I hope! When it gets here I'll post pics of what I do, or swap pedals, one of the 2!

The 96 pedal wont work, its shorter than the 73-87 stuff and the bend is wrong. It winds up being right beside the brake pedal, there is not really a gap between them. Plus the pivot where it goes in the bracket is to long and even if you cut it to fit the pedal are still to close. I tired it and went back to my z-bar pedals.

You've already ordered a master and all so you probably don't want to go the same route I did. You can add a plate to the z-bar pedal to make the factory hydraulic master work. I went with a wildwood master, I have it hooked to the pedal now but I haven't added fluid to the system yet.

[bluex]

This is what I did instead of spending $300+ on a used hydraulic pedal setup





Heres how to add the mounting for the stock master. This picture is all I've been able to find about it though.

[74CustomK20]

I will probably go the sane route. Since mine doesn't have the dimples or anything I plan on mounting it wherever I can use the stockish pedal. Like use a bolt or modify the pedal if need be ya know. Hydraulic stock parts are stupid expensive.

[bluex]

Originally Posted by 74CustomK20

I will probably go the sane route. Since mine doesn't have the dimples or anything I plan on mounting it wherever I can use the stockish pedal. Like use a bolt or modify the pedal if need be ya know. Hydraulic stock parts are stupid expensive.

Does your trans have the internal hydraulic throwout bearing or an external slave? I can put up my list of parts if your interested in what I used. I don't know yet how stiff the pedal might be since I haven't put fluid in it. It wound up mounted lower on the pedal than I'd like. I converted the hydraulic bearing over to a -3an line and added a remote bleeder as well.

Oh and where my master is mounted is the speedometer cable hole. I used the factory hole as the bottom left most part and enlarged it from there. You really cant go much higher than that due to the way the cab is on the inside.

[74CustomK20]

Internal, it's a 96 model from a z71. I plan on installing the trans and t-case later today actually so I'll grab pics. Hose n master cylinder should be here by next weekend so it'll wait til then, ain't got much choice lol. Once I get those on and other small aggrivating things I'm going to mount my cab on and see how it'll all look. It exits lower driver side so there's room for it... the TOB and the slave looks like this, 1 piece, except the yellow has little slots in 2 sides to fit a quick connect piece in... have to take a different pic.

[bluex]

You don't have to take a picture, mine is the same. I converted to braided stainless line and did away with the quick connect an all. I needed to do that because I didn't use a factory master and I wasn't going to pay $120 for a aftermarket line with that quick connect on it.

[74CustomK20]

I found the factory line for like 75 or so, and wana try and keep it stock for ease ya know.

[bluex]

I couldn't use a factory line due to my master cylinder, that is really what drove me to convert it over to AN stuff. The fittings, line and remote bleeder all together were still cheaper than a line that would work with the master I have and the quick connect.

[74CustomK20]

Dang. I never did think of doing that.

[bluex]

This is how I did my lines from the bearing

[74CustomK20]

Nice. That would of gave me more adjustability and everything... crap.