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06-15-2016, 03:48 PM | #1 |
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Camber/toe problem 70 c10
I recently installed all new tie rods and have been attempting to get it straight as possible. I've got the passenger side decent, but I'm having trouble with the driver side. Looking at the front end straight on, it appears my wheel is kicked out, but also looks like it has positive camber as well.
I've tried fixing the toe issue by turning the tie rod sleeve, but I've turned it quite a bit, much more than the passenger side. Then I began thinking, well maybe my camber is off, and it is making it appear to my eyes that the toe is kicked outwards? I researched how to adjust the camber, but I cannot tell if there are shims in it already without disassembling some stuff, which I'd rather not do since I drive this truck to work daily. So I have a few questions. Should I keep turning my tie rod sleeve, or should I start to disassemble the suspension to investigate the a arm and see if it is shimmed. Is there a way to add negative camber aside from removing the shims? I did have an appointment with a local alignment shop, but to do my alignment they said they would have to replace all my ball joints and a arm bushings, which came up to about $600, so I opted to try and do some of it on my own. I've done everything on this truck myself so far in hopes of learning a bit about working on cars, so I would prefer to do most of the work myself and then have a basic alignment done. I am, however, a novice and would appreciate any help. |
06-15-2016, 03:54 PM | #2 |
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These are a few pics of my a arm, I can't tell if there are shims in there.
Posted via Mobile Device Last edited by Eakinsk2010; 06-15-2016 at 04:08 PM. |
06-15-2016, 04:41 PM | #3 |
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Re: Camber/toe problem 70 c10
Well don't give up, if the parts need replaced which they probably do then it is something you can do. We will help on here.
Yes you have shims, and several of them on all the photos you posted. If the top of your tire appears to be leaning out then of course removing some will help that. I get my parts for this from RockAuto they have good prices. it looks like somebody has been into them as you have a castle nut in one spot which is not correct, they are all locking nuts I believe. Good luck and get then swapped as soon as you can and aligned so you wont mess up your tires or worse... Dave.
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Dave 1968 Custom Chevy with turbo charged 5.3 gen III 4l80e swap 1967-71 GMC 3/4 ton long step 4x4 (not sure what year exactly?) "A good friend will bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "that was frekin awesome". "If it doesn't fit force it...If it breaks then it needed to be replaced anyway!" |
06-15-2016, 04:43 PM | #4 |
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Re: Camber/toe problem 70 c10
If the top ball joints have not been changed they are rivited in place and those will need to be removed, cut and ground and knocked out) the new ones will bolt in place. The lower are press in and you will need to borrow (from local parts store) a press to remove and replace them It is not that tough.
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Dave 1968 Custom Chevy with turbo charged 5.3 gen III 4l80e swap 1967-71 GMC 3/4 ton long step 4x4 (not sure what year exactly?) "A good friend will bail you out of jail...but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying "that was frekin awesome". "If it doesn't fit force it...If it breaks then it needed to be replaced anyway!" |
06-15-2016, 10:02 PM | #5 | |
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06-16-2016, 07:36 AM | #6 |
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Re: Camber/toe problem 70 c10
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06-16-2016, 10:58 AM | #7 | |
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Re: Camber/toe problem 70 c10
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. 1965 C10 Panel, Tiki Express http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=506580 SOLD 1968 Chevy C10, Long, Fleetside, Hot Rod Hauler http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=313233 SOLD 1965 Chevy C10, Long, Fleetside, Hot Rod C10 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=415702 SOLD We were given two ears and one mouth for a reason... listen twice as much and speak half as often... |
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06-16-2016, 12:34 PM | #8 | |
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