Wrong heads on motor?

[Dad's72]

I need help. I'm cleaning up the motor that I just bought from a buddy that he thought was a crate motor. At first glance I can tell that the head on the driver side of the motor is way shorter than the head on the passenger side of the motor. Has anyone ever seen anything like this? I'm going to try to take the valve covers off so I can see the casting numbers. I found a metal tag that shows its an AC Delco remanufactured motor for GM. But it was assembled in Mexico. I guess the build sheet wasn't in Spanish. This is my first build anf first time trying something like this. I'm pretty mechanically inclined but I can tell that this isn't the right head for this motor. Am I screwed? I may have to ask that money for my money back.

[Dad's72]

Not sure why those pictures rotated but you can definitely see it in the last picture that I have circled in red.
Man, this is a huge kick in the gut. If this is as bad as I think it is my get the truck driving plan is out the window. My only hope is that my 72 heads are okay and that they will fit on this 1980-1985 block.

[Marshy]

You need to take the valve covers off and compare the casting number. Post the casting numbers for us when you do. If they match each other then they are the same head. keep in mind, the heads are staggered, one is mounted more forward than the other because opposing cylinders share the same crank journal so there has to be an offset.

[hamjet]

They're the same length, the cylinders are staggered alittle for the rods to fit the crank. all is well...

[leddzepp]

The heads are staggered...take a look at the other end.

[Dad's72]

I feel dumb. They are staggered but why is there a big gap in the back of drivers side? Is this normal? About to power wash and degrease. Want to make sure water won't get in there. Feels like there is s bolt in there.

[Dad's72]

Here are the casting numbers. Drivers side two, then passengers side. And the front.

[Bigdav160]

Looks completely normal

[Dad's72]

They are clean inside. The motor is only suppose to have 30K miles on it. Was a crate motor replacement for a 1979 C10 my buddy is selling. He was going to do an LS swap but that feel through.

[Dad's72]

The numbers are different. Could that be because it is a rebuilt crate motor?

[Warrens69GMC]

Originally Posted by Dad's72

The numbers are different. Could that be because it is a rebuilt crate motor?

Yes. They use whatever they have.

[57larry]

looks OK to me. I'd take the dist. cap off so you don't break it

[kwmech]

rebuilt crate engines do not have allen screws on the timing cover. May have been a crate at one time, but has been messed with. Even a messican rebuilt is not going to have 2 different casting numbers on the heads.

[toolboxchev]

Originally Posted by Warrens69GMC

Yes. They use whatever they have.

X2, it was rebuilt again after it left Mexico.

My old 70 chev has a rebuilt motor in it, it had a 327 head and a 350 head, both were the same in respect to cc's in the chamber.

I fixed that crap.

[Warrens69GMC]

I used to work at an auto parts store and would see this from name brand rebuilders all of the time. As for the timing cover, most if not all basic long block rebuilds do not have the timing cover, so the "Spectre performance" timing cover or other variant was probably put on instead of the stock one.

[Dad's72]

Thanks for all the info guys. I panicked a little. I got the motor with full flowmaster exhaust for $400. I heard it running before I bought it and it started first time after sitting for a little over a month. After taking the valve covers off the rockers and springs look to be in good condition and clean.
I cannot afford new valve covers right now. Do y'all think I could sand these down and paint them black with VHT spray paint?
Also, what is the best gasket to use to try to limit leaks with only having 4 bolts holding these things down?
The longer number head seems to be off of a 68-76 and the shorter number head is off of a 79-85 according to the internet. If this is the case would my stock 72 camel humps bolt on to the 80-85 block?

[Dad's72]

Originally Posted by Warrens69GMC

I used to work at an auto parts store and would see this from name brand rebuilders all of the time. As for the timing cover, most if not all basic long block rebuilds do not have the timing cover, so the "Spectre performance" timing cover or other variant was probably put on instead of the stock one.

That makes sense. I hope it is the case here. Either way the motor was running smooth and strong. It will make my truck go until I build the stock motor a couple more years.

[Dad's72]

Can y'all help me with what this is and how to get it off? I am borrowing a puller to get the harmonic balancer off so I can replace the timing cover gasket. Can I use it to pull this off as well? It is the part where the fly wheel came off of.

[Bigdav160]

That is part of the crankshaft casting. It's not coming off without breaking the crankshaft in two.

[Dad's72]

Thanks. I feel like such a rookie. I will coninue cleaning off my new/used motor. Thanks for the help again.
Question: does the harmonic baLancer need to go back on the same as it came off? I mean if the top is now at the bottom, wI'll that throw anything off?

[Mike C]

It only goes on one way. The woodruff key lines it up in one and only spot.

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by Dad's72

Thanks. I feel like such a rookie. I will coninue cleaning off my new/used motor. Thanks for the help again.
Question: does the harmonic baLancer need to go back on the same as it came off? I mean if the top is now at the bottom, wI'll that throw anything off?

I think you need some reference/reading material!

https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...1029/overview/

[Dad's72]

Originally Posted by Mike C

It only goes on one way. The woodruff key lines it up in one and only spot.

You are correct sir. I figured that out last night. I guess I was tire and forgot and then asked again on a public forum so everyone knows I'm in over my head. Haha.

[Dad's72]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

I think you need some reference/reading material!

https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...1029/overview/

Thanks. The sad part is I bought one and have misplaced it. I am looking for it right now. I may have to order a new one. I'm really not this scattered. I have worked on all my own cars my whole life but I have never done an engine rebuild or, in this case, an engine swap.
I do plan on replacing the leaking gaskets, freeze plugs, and seals so this book will come in handy for all the torque specs and order to install.

[Marshy]

Which seals are leaking? If you have leaking seals you might want to replace the rear main seal while you're at it...

As long as you stay patient and ask questions and not answer them yourself you should be in good shape. There's always two ways of learning, from your own mistakes or through others mistakes. One cost less than the other.