11 years since starting question: priming the oil pump.

[In The Ten Ring]

I asked a local mechanic today if I should prime my oil pump with a drill. He said "no."

My engine is a 250 I6 and it's been sitting since 2005 (11 years). What do you guys think? Prime with drill or not?

In a couple of weeks it will be time to restart the engine.

How badly will I mess up the timing if I turn the oil pump with a drill?

What are the steps to do this?

[kwmech]

Personally I would prime it after sitting that long

[swamp rat]

I would first change the oil if you havent, then prime, the bearing are bound to be dry sitting that long..

EDIT: Best way to do it ( I find) is to pull the #1 plug then turn the engine over (Proper direction of course ) with a wrench or starter button with the coil disconnected so it won't start on ya, put your finger over the hole and turn until you start to feel the compression, then look at the harmonic balancer and keep turning until the mark lines up with the TDC mark on your timing tab. Then pull the dist cap and make a note of where the rotor is pointing on the dist body mark it with a sharpie if necessary, also, make a mark on the outer body and the block so the body can be realigned upon reinstall, this will keep the timing real close. When you remove the distributor the rotor will turn a little when you lift the distributor up, make a mental note of the direction the rotor turns until the distributor will pull out, once out make a mental note of the position of the drive slot on the oil pump. Upon reinstall clock the oil pump back where it was then orient the distributor body and rotor to that mental note and drop the distributor back in, the rotor should turn and go back to the mark on the distributor and the mark on the block and distributor should line up also, if the rotor is off your one tooth out so pull the distributor back up and move the rotor one tooth position over and reinstall.

If the valve cover is off then you don't need to have your finger on the spark plug hole to feel for compression, just watch the rockers rock. Intake, Compression, Power, Exhaust. Intake rocker opens then it closes for compression and power then opens for exhaust. Once the intake closes align the timing marks at TDC then follow instructions above.

[In The Ten Ring]

Originally Posted by swamp rat

I would first change the oil if you havent, then prime, the bearing are bound to be dry sitting that long..

EDIT: Best way to do it ( I find) is to pull the #1 plug then turn the engine over (Proper direction of course ) with a wrench or starter button with the coil disconnected so it won't start on ya, put your finger over the hole and turn until you start to feel the compression, then look at the harmonic balancer and keep turning until the mark lines up with the TDC mark on your timing tab. Then pull the dist cap and make a note of where the rotor is pointing on the dist body mark it with a sharpie if necessary, also, make a mark on the outer body and the block so the body can be realigned upon reinstall, this will keep the timing real close. When you remove the distributor the rotor will turn a little when you lift the distributor up, make a mental note of the direction the rotor turns until the distributor will pull out, once out make a mental note of the position of the drive slot on the oil pump. Upon reinstall clock the oil pump back where it was then orient the distributor body and rotor to that mental note and drop the distributor back in, the rotor should turn and go back to the mark on the distributor and the mark on the block and distributor should line up also, if the rotor is off your one tooth out so pull the distributor back up and move the rotor one tooth position over and reinstall.

If the valve cover is off then you don't need to have your finger on the spark plug hole to feel for compression, just watch the rockers rock. Intake, Compression, Power, Exhaust. Intake rocker opens then it closes for compression and power then opens for exhaust. Once the intake closes align the timing marks at TDC then follow instructions above.

First: thank you both for the replies and especially you swamp rat for those details.

My eyes totally glazed over there.......remember I am completely new to all of this.....is this something the basic auto mechanic would know how to do?

Who among you are willing to come help me with this, me paying your meals and motel stay?

[Gromit]

Totally agree with other posters recommending priming.

Here is a cut and paste (below) of the GM Performance Instructions - probably you can also download a pdf of the instructions for a priming tool off of the Summit webpage for the tool if you want a third opinion..

If it were me I would also remove the valve cover and watch for oil to percolate up out of all the pushrod tubes / rocker arm holes.. I have seen those pushrod tubes clog and you want to make certain they are flowing because that is easier than rebuilding the top end a few hours later..

**************************************
The engine should be primed with oil prior to starting. Follow the instructions enclosed with the tool. To prime the engine, first
remove the distributor to allow access to the oil pump drive shaft. Note the position of the distributor before removal. Install
the oil priming tool. Using a 1/2" dill motor, rotate the engine oil priming tool clockwise for three minutes. While you are priming
the engine, have someone else rotate the crankshaft clockwise to supply oil throughout the engine and to all the bearing surfaces
before the engine is initially started. This is the sure way to get oil to the bearings before you start the engine for the first time.
Also, prime the engine if it sits for extended periods of time. Reinstall the distributor in the same orientation as it was removed.
After the engine has been installed in the vehicle, recheck the oil level and add oil as required. It is also good practice to
always recheck the ignition timing after removal and reinstallation of the distributor. See step 4 or engine specifications
for the proper timing information.

[TwoFiftyShifter]

No man... is there a YouTube video you can watch? I would try that. Not too hard of a thing but these are all precautionary measures - it's a six banger afterall. My first truck a 64 GMC 230 I-6, it was sitting for god knows how long as the right rear drum had to be torched off from being seized on... we just cleaned the points, made sure it had oil, fresh gas via a 5 gallon can, starting fluid in the carb and a fresh battery. Bam. Puff of smoke and it was ALIVE!

[old Chevy guy]

I wouldn't start it right up dry, but I don't think you have to go crazy. Drain out old oil, fill with fresh, remove coil wire crank till pressure comes up on gauge then try and start it. It's a 250 not a rocket engine. I've started dozens of engines that sat for a dozen or twenty years. If it cranks it will get oil pressure and be fine. My two cents but I'm not a rocket scientist, just an " old Chevy" guy.

[Boog]

At the very least pull the coil wire, spark plugs and spin it over for a couple of minutes using the starter to build some oil pressure before you attempt to crank it.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Boog

At the very least pull the coil wire, spark plugs and spin it over for a couple of minutes using the starter to build some oil pressure before you attempt to crank it.

Nope, that still spins the journals against the dry bearings, don't do it, been sitting too long., unless you plan on doing a rebuild anyway, but if your wanting to run it then prime it..

[mooseboy84]

Get a priming tool. Jegs/summit/amazon/ebay, they all have SBC priming tool. It will fit the i6 distributor slot. If I was you, i would buy cheap walmart 5q, start it up and let it come to temp/adjust timing. Then put in a engine flush, then dump it and put in new oil.