Hinge and roller pin and bushing replacement

[LEEVON]

Eventually they all get the saggy door. If you catch it quick enough, all you will have to do is replace the bushings and hinge pins. The roller pin, which the detent rides on is also commonly in poor condition. I wanted to do a write-up, although this isn't too difficult and there are other write-ups floating around I like to be prepared and maybe somebody could use this for the same reason.

1) Support the door. I chose to use my cherry picker. I have done this in a body shop before with access to a door jack. I have also seen it done with just two guys, any of these methods works fine.

2) Disconnect the door wiring. Remove the kick panel cover. There were three connectors in my door, I was able to remove one from the inside of the cab, the other two I had to pull out toward the door and then disconnect.

3) Remove the detent spring. You can use a pry bar to knock it out or the cheap GM door spring tool. It's easy to do, so for safety sake I recommend the tool.

4) Drive the hinge pins out. Use a pair of side cutters to snip and remove the retainer on the end of the pins. The top pin is driven from the bottom and the bottom pin from the top. They are pretty easy to drive out with a whack of the hammer, but you may need to employ your vice grips, punch or other method. Your door is now free. Remove and set aside from your work area.

5) Remove the roller pin. The head is mushroomed from the factory, and it's pretty easy to knock it off with a cold chisel which is the method I used. I then filed any remnants flat and drove it out with one of the hinge pins and a hammer. You could also use a small cut-off wheel or dremel tool to remove the head.

6) Prep and clean. Finish removing the bushings. They disintegrate, so you will have to be patient. Once they are out, clean the holes well. You may also wish to clean the hinges of old grease and scrub the jamb really well which I did.

7) Install the roller pin. Here is where this gets tricky. The knurling portion on the Dorman roller pin is over-sized by .022-.025. You have to expand the hole in order to drive this pin home. I used a dremel attachments on a 90 degree air drill, and it took awhile because I didn't have any carbide tools. I also couldn't find a drill bit that was a close fit. After checking the fit several times with my digital calipers I threw the roller pin in the freezer for about 30 minutes while I took a break. After that it drove right home. Install the e-clip and you're done with this part.

8) Install the hinge pins. Be aware there are two size bushings, this is obvious if you look at the pins, the head side is larger but it's possible to overlook. Once again, the top pin drives in from the bottom and the bottom from the top. Drive them home and install the retainers.

9) Button-up. Hook up the connectors, install the kick panel. I like white lithium grease in a spray can to lube all of the moving parts. Your door should shut like butter now, but there is also a possibility that it need some adjustment. Be patient, if you are still sagging use a jack and a block of wood to adjust the hinges upward slowly while checking several time. You may also notice the striker is extra worn because of the sag, replace if necessary.

10) Grab a beer and enjoy the sound of your door shutting like the day it was born!

[LEEVON]

Reserved for pics.

[LEEVON]

Please delete #2 post.

Parts from Rockauto.com for one door totaled $24 with shipping.

DORMAN 38416 Door Hinge Pin & Bushing Kit $ 5.16 (2 per door)
DORMAN 38433 Door Hinge Pin $ 11.25 (1 per door)

[LEEVON]

Last pics.

[Cape Codder]

Nice write up and sure it will help many. I used to work for a body shop that serviced the the local public works trucks so I have done at least 20 of these door rebuilds. I find pressing the bushings in the best way as opposed to hammering on them as they are brittle. I use a socket and a bolt to press them in.