Need help from Guys with Stock Frame ADs with LS

[Root2812]

I'm about to drop my 5.3 into my 1950 truck, or should I say bare frame. I know that I don't want to recess the firewall and if I had a cab on my frame I'd install my engine based on the firewall but sadly I don't have a cab on it. My truck is still fully assembled and I drive it, I'm building a new chassis to do a body swap to next winter. I have a kid coming in just a few months and I really want to get the engine running in the frame before my daughter comes. I'm hoping you guys can help me out with 2 things.

So I have a stock frame, don't want to cut the firewall, and have a 5.3 LS with truck accessories. I've seen pics of them in there and its tight so I got the Dirty Dingo slider mounts (link below) for that adjustability after the body is on. Can any of you guys who have been successful give me some measurements so I can get close? I don't have a radiator but something like radiator support to waterpump pulley would be a great measurement. Anything you think may help me get in the ball park. There is a pic below of what I have right now. I do have the radiator support but its not on in the picture. Those mounts have 3 inches adjustability (I'll go in the middle so 1.5 each way) so I just need to be within an inch or so.

http://dirtydingo.com/store/index.ph...=1_206_305_321



So my second hold up is the fuel tank issue. I'd like to see what guys running the stock frame with LS engine are using. I have the TCI leaf kit so there will be lots of room after the spare tire cross member comes out. I know people use nearly every tank under the sun but I'd like to see the ones with the LS pumps to get ideas. Do I need a baffled tank?

Thanks a lot guys. This is my first build and I'm trying to read a ton to figure it all out but this is the time I think I need help most. I'll be glad to share lots of pics and a video when it runs.

[mr48chev]

Well, if you lived close to me you could just borrow the part of a cab i have sitting out back to fit things up with and then haul it back when you were done. That is probably the plan now. find enough of a cab to use to mock it up and fut the engine in and with measurements you can probably mock up a core support.radiator out a few scrap boards and a a piece of something to work as the back side of the radiator. Laying a yardstick or something else straight down the back side of the radiator to figure out where it lines up with the frame an making your dummy radiator so the back side is in the same spot should work. It's probably going to hit just about where the top of the area of the crossmember it sits on curves down in back.

[dwcsr]

Here are the numbers you need. you will also need a tape measure

Firewall to cab mount 13.18"
Axle C/L to FW 17.75"
Rad Support to cab Mount 44.85"
End rail to Axle C/L 20.6"

You should also get a assembly manual it has all the detailed measurement you need
engine angle is usually 3-5 degrees down

[opc patrick]

This is exactly what I am doing... except with a suburban and I was not looking forward to trying to put it on and take it off, back and forth.

[_Ogre]

didn't someone on here buy a firewall and floor piece just for fitting the motor in?
imo, it would be difficult to get the motor and trans in without a cab or part of one
especially a suburban

i left my cab on for the suspension work and removed/installed it one time for body and paint

[Root2812]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

Here are the numbers you need. you will also need a tape measure

Firewall to cab mount 13.18"
Axle C/L to FW 17.75"
Rad Support to cab Mount 44.85"
End rail to Axle C/L 20.6"

You should also get a assembly manual it has all the detailed measurement you need
engine angle is usually 3-5 degrees down

Thanks. this is exactly what I needed. With these numbers I can get in the ball park and fine tune the placement later.

So now I just need to figure out my fuel tank and fuel system stuff. I'd like to do somewhat cheaper if I can but it seems like one of those rectangular tanks made to fit this truck would fit well even though its expensive. I see brothers, LMC, and classic parts all sell them. Then I don't know if I need baffles or what depth tank to use with a stock fuel pump. I guess I could just go with the Aeromotive Phantom pump since its adjustable but also expensive.

Any tips, pics, or advice on a tank and pump set up for the stock AD frame?

[Iceburgh]

check out my build on the suburban in my signature.
You can make it work with out cutting the firewall but it is TIGHT.
One thing I will say is the Rad has to fit all the way in the rad support . GMC does this, chevy it is out the back slightly.
Get a smaller rad to fit in, cut the X brace and massage where needed without changing the fender bolt holes/ This will save you about 2"
Next I don't see how you will get around using a very thin electric fan.... I think a mechanical fan is out of the question. Might even want to use a puller.
The way I measured it with the motor as tight as possible to the cab I had almost 6".
I decided to cut the firewall and move the engine back almost 3 "

Remember you will need to be able to plumb some type of air intake and MAF .

[Root2812]

Originally Posted by Iceburgh

check out my build on the suburban in my signature.
You can make it work with out cutting the firewall but it is TIGHT.
One thing I will say is the Rad has to fit all the way in the rad support . GMC does this, chevy it is out the back slightly.
Get a smaller rad to fit in, cut the X brace and massage where needed without changing the fender bolt holes/ This will save you about 2"
Next I don't see how you will get around using a very thin electric fan.... I think a mechanical fan is out of the question. Might even want to use a puller.
The way I measured it with the motor as tight as possible to the cab I had almost 6".
I decided to cut the firewall and move the engine back almost 3 "

Remember you will need to be able to plumb some type of air intake and MAF .

You make many good points. I do anticipate having to modify my core support and possibly run a pusher fan. I have found some really low profile puller fans that may work. The 6 inches you had, was that to the tip of the water pump with a truck pump? or to the block? What kind of clearance did you have to the cab? I was thinking to try and get to 1/4 inch - 1/2 inch space.

As for the air intake, I'm thinking of running one of those S&P maf's that are in the air cleaner assembly that mounts right to the throttle body. Either that or maybe tuning out the maf and running a speed density tune. I want to try and avoid a big duct running across my engine bay.

[Iceburgh]

a little over 6" from tip of the pulley to the rad....but remember my rad is sunk completely in the support.
Chevy supports typically do not allow this.
Back of the motor was 1/4" from the firewall...... close enough that I am not sure I could get a hose end on the fuel rail

[Root2812]

Its done. I used the measurements that dwcsr provided, as well as my new floor pans and the radiator support to get everything in place. I used the Dirty dingo adjustable mounts so I have about 1 inch play front and back when the cab goes on. I plan to mod the radiator support some and use a pusher fan. I am also mulling the idea of doing a MAF delete and running a speed density tune. That's all details for now. I just wanted to thank you guys for the help. Here is what my weekends work looks like...

I haven't finished up the trans cross member yet but at least the engine is in.

I started by getting the tranny and engine mated together and up on the lift.


And I had put the Corvette LS6 exhaust manifolds (heat shields removed) on but I had to take them back off for clearance. Its really really tight!. I'll end up clearancing my frame boxing plates a little to make the exhaust clear.


So after a days work here is what is the current set up.



I have to pull everything apart for paint so this is just mocked up but man that engine looks huge on this tiny frame! Its going to be fun!

Since this old truck had such a small motor before I know front to back clearance will be tight but it will fit. I have everything within a half inch of where it needs to be and my slider mounts have 1 inch of adjustment left each way so I'll be good. It does look like a pusher fan is in my future.


Hey Iceburgh... Did you box your frame all the way back? I keep going back and forth about it. I don't plan to race and I'm thinking that as light as the back of this truck is that the wheels should spin easy and not cause a twisted frame if I do a burn out or two.

[Iceburgh]

Nope....just to the cab.
Cab and tranny cross member will give it enough support under th ecab and out back.

Decide what you are going to do about A/C before taking the engine out.
You can go low on the passengers side with a alan grove setup but you will need to notch the frame, or go high on the same side but will need to motify the inner fenders.

[torchlight]

Fantastic progress! Stay out of the rain!

[Root2812]

Iceburgh - I am going to go without AC. Its not too often that its too hot for two windows down here in MN. I may run an old school swamp cooler on the window someday for fun. I think just the stock heater rebuilt will be it.

torchlight - Dude, this rain is crazy. At least my grass will be green. How's Marvin coming along?

[apezold]

I have a1954 gmc I am going to install a 5.3 using the stock front suspension what motor mounts and tran. Mount will I need and what other advices u can give me

[Root2812]

Originally Posted by apezold

I have a1954 gmc I am going to install a 5.3 using the stock front suspension what motor mounts and tran. Mount will I need and what other advices u can give me

I used dirty dingo engine mounts. They will weld right to a flat boxed frame rail. You can see them in my build thread.