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04-23-2017, 09:31 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: Bozeman
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65 with 73-87 control arm question (dumb )
Are the ball joints on these trucks off set top to bottom? If I ran aplumb bob from center top ball joint it would miss the lower by an inch or so. Does not look right but I dunno know much about em. The uppers just on old studs. Lowers located with holes on stud in stock u bolt mounts with newer style I bolts. So to be clear lower is further formats than upper.
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04-23-2017, 09:33 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: San Francisco
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Re: 65 with 73-87 control arm question (dumb )
You have to shim the top one. That is how they adjust Camber and caster. All you can do is get it close and let the aliment shop to the rest.
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04-23-2017, 09:44 PM | #3 |
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Re: 65 with 73-87 control arm question (dumb )
Ok , here's a picture of what I was trying to say
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04-23-2017, 10:57 PM | #4 |
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Location: Bend, Oregon
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Re: 65 with 73-87 control arm question (dumb )
Totally normal. This is the "built-in" factory caster which will get you about 3 degrees. In fact, it can use more than you even have there. I just did the "Caster Mod" and moved my lower control arm forward 3/4" and the caster went from 3 to 7 degrees. Drives like a totally different truck now for about 15 minutes of time drilling new alignment holes. Look it up and do it before you put the springs in.
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04-23-2017, 11:45 PM | #5 |
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Re: 65 with 73-87 control arm question (dumb )
Funny you post this as I was just trying to read through all the "make it handle better" thread. I saw that mentioned but got a bit lost . For some reason I thought the dropped spindles had caster built in to them? So , flip the Lca tubes and re drill the locating holes 3/4 rearward to push lower ball joint out toward the bumper right? Is it really worth it for a non performance truck? For some reason I had a he'll of a time getting those I bolts in and bolted up. In fact there is a little skin and blood on that front end now. Kinda cringe thinking about taking them back off. Was it just me or do the u bolts suck to get on? I'll search for a detailed post of the mod. Came this far I guess but is it really worth it? Thanks for the replies
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04-24-2017, 05:05 AM | #6 |
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Location: Ruskin Florida
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Re: 65 with 73-87 control arm question (dumb )
Nope. Not you. They suck. I put mine in a vise and bent them straight and fitted them before trying to get the shaft and control arms reattached. Made things a bit easier. Still haven't driven it yet but cannot wait. Never drove it before the mod anyway so this will be fun.
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04-24-2017, 12:17 PM | #7 |
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Re: 65 with 73-87 control arm question (dumb )
Ok so I guess iam more clueless than I remember! So I switched from 65 uppers to 73-87 uppers and now I'm wondering which set of hardware to use on the studs? The 6k5 studs have a half round washer with a matching washer that rides on it with the shape being concave? And the 73-87 had a longer stud and a washer that was flat on the outside and a bad a cu4ved shape inside. Feel like I opened a box of worms . I have a bad habit of over thinking thing (with little results)
So should I beat out old studs and replace with 73-87 studs and use it's hardware or Use the original 65 hardware and studs? Will be taking them off again to upgrade caster so no harm done I guess Also are brand spanking new u bolts easier to install because the old ones will be getting thrown in the woods after I cut them off and flip out. Thanks charlie |
04-24-2017, 04:24 PM | #8 |
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Bend, Oregon
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Re: 65 with 73-87 control arm question (dumb )
I put the new, later upgraded bigger 9/16"u-bolts in mine from summit. They were like $18 and they fell right in without even drilling the holes bigger. Good peace of mind versus the older 1/2" ones. The drop spindles don't have more caster, it's only when you upgrade to a tubular upper arm you get it.
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