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04-05-2004, 10:37 PM | #1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Detroit Lakes, Minnesota
Posts: 885
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Is it a lot of work to put radiator and cab supports in?
im getting ready to buy some new cab support cusion things and radiator supports for my 67 k10... just wondering do i need to take out my radiator and all that. i also need to move both cab and front clip about a inch over to the pass side. does anything change or need to be done in order to do this thanks
matt
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1971 k5 blazer 80k mike survivor 1972 3/4 ton 4wd Cummins 12v 1967 swb 2wd 427bbc 1968 4wd shortbox 1971 Cheyenne swb k10 unrestored 1971 Cheyenne super 40k 402bb survivor 1967 Chevy k10 (first truck) 1968 L78 camaro survivor 18k miles 1969 z28 survivor 60k miles 1969 z28 survivor 39k miles 1969 z28 rs survivor 80k miles |
04-05-2004, 10:42 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: north of Phx AZ about 30 miles
Posts: 698
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Not really, it is a Saturday afternoon job. At least it was when I did it.
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Andy,Phx AZ '67 C-10 (Ahhh, done at last. Well there is that disk front end I want to put in and...) "23 C-Cab-sold '48 Ford 8N tractor(still working) '67 Scout(Now on the road) '70 MG B.-sold |
04-06-2004, 05:51 AM | #3 |
user # 2756
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
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Can do it in an afternoon. Depends on what needs to be done to remove the stock bolts. I had to cut 4 of mine. Will need to remove the radiator clamps to lift the radiator up and towards the fan to get the bolts out.
Are you installing a poly kit or stock rubber. If it's a poly kit then you'll need to take the gas tank loose also as the factory bolts will be replaced and will drop down from inside the cab vice go up from the bottom. I have some pics of my 70 mounts in the sig link. I'm also in process of doing the 70 on the 71 chassis.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
04-06-2004, 09:03 AM | #4 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Muskegon,MI,USA
Posts: 6,026
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Most of the front cab mount bolts are welded into the floor, so you may want to cut them or grind them out. Otherwise you will have to pick the cab up far enough to clear the bolts. New bolts are available but they are not a standard size since they are 9/16".
Jim |
04-06-2004, 08:28 PM | #5 |
user # 2756
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Posts: 4,612
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Like Jim said for both my trucks I bought new bolts from LMC. A carriage bolt up front with a rectangular washer and a 9/16 bolt w/ washer for the front cab. Both my poly kits came with the rear bolt.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
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