58 Apache Outer Roof Skin Removal

[QBRacing]

He all, I just wanted to know if there is a write up anywhere for the roof replacement on the 58-59 chevy swb trucks. I have searched high and low but other than the 5 rivets on the back/rear there isn't much info.

To me there looks to be spot welds in the chanels but how/where does the skin join to the a pillar etc.

I just thought I would try to remove it myself then take it to the panel shop to have the new one installed.

Youtube video - At 1 minute in you can see my problem.

Any help / links / photos appreciated.

Q

[Dan in Pasadena]

Search Bam's (Kabwe) build thread and he did this job. Good luck. Make SURE to thoroughly document what you do so others will be able to use it as a guide if they ever need to do it. Best of luck.

[QBRacing]

Thanks Dan

I had a read through his thread and can only find a couple of mentions of the roof but not much of a write up. Got to about page 15 and he was starting to undercoat everything.

Ill keep hunting but failing that ill take to mine with paint stripper and drills and grinding discs and see how it goes, making sure I take some video and photos too.

I plan on mainly video blogging most of my build on my YouTube Channel with pics to show before during and after for this site.

Cheers
Q

[mdpaulson1]

I know in the last few months there was a thread on this subject also theres this
http://www.thehollisterroadcompany.c...forceroof.html

[QBRacing]

that link doesnt work for me sorry ?

[mdpaulson1]

heres a thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=724746
if this dosen't work then search 68blackbird roof replacement

[dwcsr]

https://www.hollisterroad.com/Weldbonding.php try this link

[QBRacing]

Thanks both of those help a heap.
Guess ill find out how hard it is when i start it

Quintin

[dwcsr]

Having done this a number of times here are some tips for removal.

Cut close to the spot welded seams to remove as much roof panel as you can, then trim down to the spot welded portions. Once you have all that metal out of the way its much easier to use a spot weld cutter on the million welds they put on.

On the A post cut about 4 inches above the lead joint. It all has to come out but it makes a mess and dangerous fumes if you try to cut at that seam. The old leaded seams do not mix with the new type lead and will make a bad situation worse if you try to leaded it all back up. I either replace the section below or cut above that joint and mate the roof to it the use all metal on it.

Getting it apart is the hard part. it goes back on fairly easy without much fitting. The only areas are at the door post.

[Dan in Pasadena]

dwcsr- I'm not doing this but I'm curious: Why wouldn't you just use the spot weld cutter directly on the spot welds once you expose them with a grinder or wire wheel? Then pry the metal apart with a small chisel or putty knife.

Seems like cutting the metal around or near each of the gazillion welds is just adding work. What am I not understanding?

[dsraven]

most of the time, when I cut spot welds anyway, the cutter doesn't end up dead centre on the spot weld, for whatever reason, so there is a bit of massaging to do with a chisel (a homemade cutter fashioned from a thick guage putty knife in my case) to get the 2 pieces apart. it is near impossible to get anything in the drip rail that will do that and not make the drip rail edge get damaged. without the lower section of the roof there is just a strip of metal remaing that has all the spot welds and there is room for some tooling in the space. be it a chisel, grinder, whatever. also, the cutter tip has a point to keep it centred and the cutters are not usually long, overall, so the cutting tool is fairly close to the drill chuck. if the drill chuck contacts the roof while drilling the tip of the cutter can get broken off. more money and time spent on getting another cutter or shapening the old one (if possible).
make sense? if you have done a roof removal you will understand. dealing with old sealer, welds that are not centred in the drip rail, welds that are doubled up on top of each other, brazing material or lead in the area etc etc. easier to zip disc the old roof off just above the drip rail and gain some woring room. the old roof is toast anyway.

[Scottish58chev]

Some great information, will be doing this at some point in my build so good to have a few references on how it's done.