have to slam door - Page 2 - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Keith Seymore · 05-27-2017, 07:10 PM

That's the plunger switch that turns the dome light off and on.

K

chris1htx · 05-27-2017, 09:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keith Seymore

That's the plunger switch that turns the dome light off and on.

K

Could it be pushed in so it doesn't stick out as much?
Posted via Mobile Device

**TKCR** · 05-27-2017, 09:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by chris1htx

Could it be pushed in so it doesn't stick out as much?
Posted via Mobile Device

You should have one on both sides. You might just want to replace those too. They are supposed to be out when your door is open. And then when you close the door, the door pushes it in. Like Keith said, these are the switches that turn your dome & courtesy lights on, when you open your door.

tucsonjwt · 06-03-2017, 03:37 PM

Just a tip, get a door jamb light switch from a later model (88 and up). Those newer switches have a much better plunger which does not hang up like the old square body ones. I got mine from a junkyard but they are cheap online (Rock Auto, etc.)

Nuckingfuts · 06-04-2017, 03:08 PM

Great suggestion on the Pex!! I just grab some from the hardware store this morning and what a difference!! The door closes completely by its own weight now.

Pontiac1976 · 06-12-2017, 06:07 PM

You can check the vents to see if you have the baffles (valves flaps) up grade on the back of the vent @ the bottom of the door. They help with noise and dust, slow the air release making the door harder to close when you have new seals all on the cab.
A small trick you can do is slightly open up the steel slats(vents) with a med to large flat blade buy twisting the blade at the top middle bottom of each slat just a little open them and take off the baffle on the in side of the door in till the seals compress with heat and age and if your doors have the baffles on the end of the doors, latch side you can do the same thing. You should make sure to lube your hinges well and latch. Oh well your checking this it maybe a good time to lube the window tracks & pivot points as most people all most never do this until it broken or wore out. The rubber on the baffles get hard some time do not work fast enough

E.D.75GMC · 06-16-2017, 03:47 AM

You can also use some grease on the striker and whatnot to help with smooth engagement.

WyattTX · 06-17-2017, 08:39 AM

I used some Ford tailgate striker bushings I found in the HELP! section of the parts house, and they worked great, after a little modification.

05-27-2017, 07:10 PM	#26
Keith Seymore Registered User Join Date: May 2009 Location: Motor City Posts: 9,237	Re: have to slam door That's the plunger switch that turns the dome light off and on. K __________________ Chevrolet Flint Assembly 1979-1986 GM Full Size Truck Engineering 1986 - 2019 Intro from an Old Assembly Guy: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=342926 My Pontiac story: http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/...d.php?t=560524 Chevelle intro: http://www.superchevy.com/features/s...hevy-chevelle/

06-03-2017, 03:37 PM	#29
tucsonjwt Registered User Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Tucson, AZ Posts: 3,191	Re: have to slam door Just a tip, get a door jamb light switch from a later model (88 and up). Those newer switches have a much better plunger which does not hang up like the old square body ones. I got mine from a junkyard but they are cheap online (Rock Auto, etc.)

06-04-2017, 03:08 PM	#30
Nuckingfuts Registered User Join Date: Apr 2017 Location: CA, USA Posts: 117	Re: have to slam door Great suggestion on the Pex!! I just grab some from the hardware store this morning and what a difference!! The door closes completely by its own weight now.

06-12-2017, 06:07 PM	#31
Pontiac1976 Registered User Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada Posts: 769	Re: have to slam door You can check the vents to see if you have the baffles (valves flaps) up grade on the back of the vent @ the bottom of the door. They help with noise and dust, slow the air release making the door harder to close when you have new seals all on the cab. A small trick you can do is slightly open up the steel slats(vents) with a med to large flat blade buy twisting the blade at the top middle bottom of each slat just a little open them and take off the baffle on the in side of the door in till the seals compress with heat and age and if your doors have the baffles on the end of the doors, latch side you can do the same thing. You should make sure to lube your hinges well and latch. Oh well your checking this it maybe a good time to lube the window tracks & pivot points as most people all most never do this until it broken or wore out. The rubber on the baffles get hard some time do not work fast enough __________________ 1977 REG cab Long Bed with a 1984 Front Clip, 82 305 .60 over 9.0.1 flat top pistons, 4bbl, TH350, w/84 SS-intake & cam , w/ 1977 big block rad, 1975 gear box, 1984 master w/ metric fittings top & SAE fitting @ portion block, 1975 3.42 gear open diff. Duel 77-87 Factory air cleaner, duel inlet from rad support . Down sized 9' to new 8' Steel flat bed Was a 77 454 w/308 gear. Taken out 550 lbs. up front with motor clip change.

06-16-2017, 03:47 AM	#32
E.D.75GMC Registered User Join Date: Aug 2013 Location: Calgary Alberta Posts: 273	Re: have to slam door You can also use some grease on the striker and whatnot to help with smooth engagement. __________________ Eric 1975 GMC High Sierra C25 105,000 original miles 1989 Camaro IROC-Z 180,000 Kilometers 1996 Chevrolet Cheyenne K1500 323,000 Kilometers and still going strong

06-17-2017, 08:39 AM	#33
WyattTX Registered User Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Down south Posts: 518	Re: have to slam door I used some Ford tailgate striker bushings I found in the HELP! section of the parts house, and they worked great, after a little modification.



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