Re-installing the turn signal cancelling cam & where is high beam indicator?

[wesmigletz]

Been working on the '76 after failing a safety inspection. It was failed for the high beam indicator not working and the in-dash left blinker light not working.

I replaced the turn signal switch, headlight switch and IG lock/switch while I had the dash apart. We had to purchase another tach cluster assembly, because the one I had was cracked at a couple bulb locations and I couldn't get them to light. I also installed a new circuit board.

All the lights and gauges work, except I can't get the high beam indicator light to turn on. I think it is supposed to be in the center, above the speedo, but it doesn't light up.My high beams turn on and off OK.

1. Any thoughts on the high beam indicator?
2. Is there any trick to re-installing the green, plastic turn signal cancelling cam? I put the spring in first, then the cancelling cam. Should the cam spin freely? How should it be oriented when installed?




Your advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Wes

[Dead Parrot]

Bright light bulb is normally behind the spedo above the needle. Bulb or contacts are probably burned out. Swap with known good bulb and holder. They are all the same.

The green thing is normally held in place by a plate(forget the name) that installs on top of the green thing. Installing the plate properly indexed for the tire position can be a PITA. You are fighting with the plate, the gear splines, a compressed spring and the retaining ring. The small green tube also has to line up with the matching hole in the steering wheel when the wheel and tires are both straight. If you are off, another fight with the plate to get things lined up properly. Some wheels have a slot to allow some adjustment. Others, like mine off a blazer, have a hole.

[wesmigletz]

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

Bright light bulb is normally behind the spedo above the needle. Bulb or contacts are probably burned out. Swap with known good bulb and holder. They are all the same.

The green thing is normally held in place by a plate(forget the name) that installs on top of the green thing. Installing the plate properly indexed for the tire position can be a PITA. You are fighting with the plate, the gear splines, a compressed spring and the retaining ring. The small green tube also has to line up with the matching hole in the steering wheel when the wheel and tires are both straight. If you are off, another fight with the plate to get things lined up properly. Some wheels have a slot to allow some adjustment. Others, like mine off a blazer, have a hole.

Thank you, Dead Parrot. I'll try swapping out the bulb and socket.

The green cam will spin 360* without the slined metal lock down plate. Should it be held in place by something or be able to spin.

The metal plate can onlt go on one way unless you flip it over. Mine is off by about 1/4 turn from where i removed the steering wheel.,,
Posted via Mobile Device

[kwmech]

As you know the metal plate only goes on one way. There is a hole in the metal plate which puts the pin on the horn contact at about the 10:30/11:00 o'clock position. With everything correct the steering wheel will fit accordingly

[wesmigletz]

Thanks for the advice kwmech.

Got everything working tonight. Oil pressure gets a little low, but it comes up to 35@ 3000 RPM. I do have a quart of ATF in it to help clean out some sludge. Time to change the radio and speaker, then get the dash back together.




BTW, how does the gear indicator clip attach to the steering column? How is it orientated?

[truckin 79]

Wow I thought CO was bad with having to take emissions every year but I will take that over making every little thing in a 30 year old truck work. I do like the tachometer looks good.

[wesmigletz]

Originally Posted by truckin 79

Wow I thought CO was bad with having to take emissions every year but I will take that over making every little thing in a 30 year old truck work. I do like the tachometer looks good.

I personally feel safety inspections are a dirty racket. They punish people with older vehicles and reward repair shops and new car dealers. They're a hassle and a waste of time and $$$. But hey, there are fees to collect and it makes nanny state lovin Texans happy.

TX has annual inspection requirements for both smog and safety. I miss CA's less oppressive registration requirements. The smog checks were biannual and didnt affect older cars.
Posted via Mobile Device

[Dead Parrot]

Glad to see it is working now.

The indicator clip is held to the column by a screw on the right side of the column. There is a slot that allows for some adjustment on needle position.

OK got rid of inspections years ago. Big debate but the state was not willing to raise the price enough to allow the inspection stations to actually cover the labor price of the inspection. The old fee was $5. Even stations that were issuing stickers to rolling wrecks were loosing money since they only got to keep $1 of the five.

[wesmigletz]

Thanks Dead Parrot, I got the indicator cable installed. When the shift lever is placed in Drive, then returned to Park, the indicator (repro needle w/ OE metal plate) sticks in position, rather than returning with the gear lever, so I going to try another metal plate.

[Oberon67]

Quick question: When I take on this job, what size socket will I need for the steering wheel nut?

[wesmigletz]

Originally Posted by Oberon67

Quick question: When I take on this job, what size socket will I need for the steering wheel nut?

I don't remember off the top of my head. I think it was 3/4 or 13/16. It was a common size socket...