modest drop 2 or 3 inches. need input

[Greasey Harley]

I recently rebuilt the front end on my '68 C10 2wd. BJ's and tie rods. and a set of 1" drop springs.
I'm trying to decide weather to lower the rear of the truck 2" or 3".
I will be doing a static drip with just springs and shocks.

I Know that I would prefer the look of -3" springs but hesitate because I sometimes haul motorcycles in the back, either 1 Harley, or 2 dirt bikes
Has anyone tried to haul a large motorcycle with 3" drop springs? I would like some first hand information on this.
I realize I could do 2" springs then add a 1" block later, if I wanted it lower, but I'd rather just use springs and do it once


thanks, -R

[JMC1965]

Same concern about the drop and payload issue.

I did a search on the board and there are a few examples of "helper bags" to solve that problem.

Here's one of them...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=425850


I'll be doing helper bags

[JMC1965]

Same concern about the drop and payload issue.

I did a search on the board and there are a few examples of I'm adding "helper bags" to solve that problem.

Here's one of them...

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=425850

[ShortCST]

I just finished a 1.875" front, 3" rear drop.

1" in the front and 3" in the rear would make your truck level, almost lower at the rear. And you'll definitely need new rear shocks.

I elected to keep a just barely noticeable rake by only lowering the rear 1" lower than the front. Just barely.

If you use 2" springs in the rear, you probably won't need to change your shocks, and your truck will likely be level with a bike in the back.

Here's a photo of my pickup with a 2" front/rear drop. Ended up with 3" rear springs after this, for better handling. As I wrote above, kept the slightest rake.

[OARNGESI]

Use drop blocks instead of springs then your spring rate and all will be the same

[ShortCST]

FWIW, some suppliers (like CPP) advise against 2" drop blocks with 15" wheels, because it brings the u-bolts on your trailing arms so close to the road. I tried 2" blocks first, before I read the warnings, and saw that the trailing arms were too close to the pavement for my comfort. 3" blocks would be crazy.

[96blazr]

Originally Posted by Greasey Harley

I recently rebuilt the front end on my '68 C10 2wd. BJ's and tie rods. and a set of 1" drop springs.
I'm trying to decide weather to lower the rear of the truck 2" or 3".
I will be doing a static drip with just springs and shocks.

thanks, -R

I dropped mine 2-inches on all 4 corners using Early Classic Enterprises 2" Springs and Gas Shocks. Made a real difference too. Still looks like a truck (instead of a squashed bug) and handles a little better.
If you plan on going any lower, you'll need to get the wallet out.

[Greasey Harley]

Thanks for all the input. I decided to go with the 2" drop springs in the back. Ultimately, it needs to function as a truck and looks are secondary.

[ShortCST]

Good choice. Post a photo!

[panhead59]

Coil over rear shocks add about 500 lbs. to tongue wt. if hauling a trailer. Or so the specs say. So I'm guessing they would really help in your situation. Inexpensive also.

[Greasey Harley]

Originally Posted by ShortCST

Good choice. Post a photo!

RIGHT!

[54belair]

I'm just finishing up on a 68 short stepside (don't really have any side shots yet on level pavement), I dropped the front 1.5" with spindles and stock springs then the back is a 3" drop with springs. With same size tires all way round, I have just under a 1" rake on it. The 1.5 in the front is all I would want on a driver (just my opinion).

[ShortCST]

Originally Posted by Greasey Harley

RIGHT!

Perfect!