Steering wheel shakes going over 35 mph. Why?

[padresag]

Originally Posted by Isaiah92260

I have new radial tires

jack your wheels off the ground and check for being loose. regarding radials i was referring to someone else's statement
ron

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by padresag

if it didn't do it before you changed the stud and does it after you changed the studs; where do you think the problem comes from. have you checked the wheel nuts to see whether or not that they are all tight. when you pulled the studs thru did you have the tapered side(wheel nut) towards the hub or away. did you use a spacer between the nut and hub incase the nut bottomed out on the stud. you did state that the new studs were longer. were they longer also in the spline or did you notice at all. in other words are you sure that the stud seated against the inside of the hub. if the spline is sticking thru the hub the nut could bottom out against that, but the wheel could still be loose
hammering out wheel stud while the hub is installed is not best for the wheel bearings either
ron

Thanks Ron. When I replaced the studs I didn't see any of the splines pull through the hub. Today after work I'll inspect the wheels and pull them off.

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by padresag

jack your wheels off the ground and check for being loose. regarding radials i was referring to someone else's statement
ron

Thanks buddy, I'm at work right now so I've been skimming through some of the comments sorry. Thank you for sharing your advice and knowledge, hopefully I have good luck after work today and I can still be on the road tomorrow

[Isaiah92260]

Originally Posted by patrickk1

If you are drum front truck, many drums have a three(I think??) little nubs on them. The wheel usually has indents so it can sit flush against the drum. If you dont have the wheel positioned so the drum nub is in the indent, it could cause the wheel to not be mounted flush against the drum and could be off slightly.

Other than that, as balesjb said: Idler arm, tie rod ends or ball joints. Just because it wasn't shaking before, doesn't mean it wasn't on it way out the door. IMO, If steering/suspension parts were close to being needed to be replaced, Jacking the front end up and down could have put the stress on them to make them worse.

I believe I do, I'm gonna make a thorough look all around and check my suspension components. Hopefully the ol' girl will play nice, she's been burning s hole in my pocket lately

[Isaiah92260]

Hopefully I can get off work a little early so I can have more time

[Isaiah92260]

Good news everyone, I was successful last night after work. It was a small issue but was easy to over look. I wasn't never aware how important it was to use the 85-90 ft pounds on the lug nuts. I took all of them off and carefully re positioned the wheels and slowly tourqed them down. Before that I checked the wobble using a straight 2x4 I had. I only got the rear drivers wheel with a slight wobble and all the other 3 wheels didn't wobble much, j couldn't believe something that small by just taking off the lug nuts and tourqing them back down back a difference. Thanks everyone? You're all great!

[padresag]

Originally Posted by Isaiah92260

Good news everyone, I was successful last night after work. It was a small issue but was easy to over look. I wasn't never aware how important it was to use the 85-90 ft pounds on the lug nuts. I took all of them off and carefully re positioned the wheels and slowly tourqed them down. Before that I checked the wobble using a straight 2x4 I had. I only got the rear drivers wheel with a slight wobble and all the other 3 wheels didn't wobble much, j couldn't believe something that small by just taking off the lug nuts and tourqing them back down back a difference. Thanks everyone? You're all great!

some of the replaced studs more than likely were not seated all of the way and the stress from driving more than likely seated them and the caused the looseness.
that is why it is better to either press them or hammer them in from the backside. that involves taking the hub or axle out though.
ron

[Godfather JAM]

Same thing here. Steering wheel has a shake that starts at about 40 mph. New studs, wheels, and tires and after a long sit. I torqued 70 lbs so hoping that is all in need to do to go up a little.

Originally Posted by Isaiah92260

Good news everyone, I was successful last night after work. It was a small issue but was easy to over look. I wasn't never aware how important it was to use the 85-90 ft pounds on the lug nuts. I took all of them off and carefully re positioned the wheels and slowly tourqed them down. Before that I checked the wobble using a straight 2x4 I had. I only got the rear drivers wheel with a slight wobble and all the other 3 wheels didn't wobble much, j couldn't believe something that small by just taking off the lug nuts and tourqing them back down back a difference. Thanks everyone? You're all great!

[studeclunker]

You know, there has been several mentions of bad wheel cylinders causing uneven braking. Another thing that do the same, especially in the front, is a bad flex line. All cars and trucks have them and some have four in lieu of the usual three. However in this vintage of truck, there are two in front and one in the rear. These also can cause problems by collapsing or failing entirely. It is always wise when resurrecting a classic vehicle to replace the flex hoses. It's a real ***** when they fail on the road, even with a dual MC.

[Godfather JAM]

So wobble was the standing up bumps from the hub and drum joining rivet (front drums) . New wheels want to be flush. Can I just remove the three rivets and make it a two piece? Thanks

[Godfather JAM]

Originally Posted by Godfather JAM

So wobble was the standing up bumps from the hub and drum joining rivet (front drums) . New wheels want to be flush. Can I just remove the three rivets and make it a two piece? Thanks

Think this answers. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=384059