216 to 235 swap, but unsure of engine-numbers

[Moeller]

Hi All,

I have a 1953, 3100 which I have started restoring.

It currently have the (maybe original) 216 engine.

I mentioned to a freind of mine, that I maybe wanted to look for a 235 engine for a future swap - and a couple of days later he called me saying that a freind of a friend of a freind.... - ANYWAY, I have been offered the below pictured 235 which looks nice enough to use for a future swap, BUT I am unsure what to make of the engine numbers. The current owner is not of much help. He does not know what car the engine comes from, or anything else about it actually...

As far as I can see, it it a 1954, 235 engine, but the "J" at the end puzzles me. I am not able to find any reference on that anywhere on the web.

Can anyone shine a light on that?

Also I do not think that I will be able to use the clutch housing on the 235. It seems that it does not have the mounts on the side of the clutch housing as the 216 engine in my truck.
Does thissmean that it comes from a passenger car? I guess I can still use the 235 block itselves with the current 216 clutch housing?

[Second Series]

I found one list for a 1957 235 that shows the type J is for Updraft carburetor. This may suggest the engine was originally in a stepvan if this is the case. I don't know what the manifold looks like, so I can't tell from the picture, but it could also have been replaced at some point.

[dsraven]

before you spend time and money on the engine you may want to get a compression test done to make sure it is worth the effort installing. if you are doing a stock restoration then the newer style engine kinda throws that out the window so, if you want a good strong reliable inline 6,why not upgrade to the newer engine from the newer trucks. the ones that have a bellhousing that is interchangeable with other GM engines, and has the ability to have HEI ignition etc. parts are readily available and usually on the shelf at the corner parts store. they would require a set of engine mounts to be fabbed up because they mount on the side of the engine as opposed to the front. you would also need to swap the rear axle because the torque tube trans may not fit up to the newer style engine. maybe some one else can answer that question?
anyway, there would be some work to do but you would end up with an upgraded engine out of the deal. along with the ability to go with a newer style of trans with overdrive for those highway trips.
if you really want to upgrade but keep an inline 6 try the 4.2L. it is fuel injected though, so more wiring and an electric fuel pump to deal with. you could also go with the 4.3L V6, some of them are carbed.

[EchoBravoSierra]

Look up the block and head casting numbers here and see what you come up with:

http://1954advance-design.com/Stoveb...g-numbers.html

[mr48chev]

325 from what I see and what year doesn't matter too much. Car or truck origin doesn't really matter either. What does matter is how much work it needs for what he is asking for it. As it sits I see it as a rebuildable core that should go for core price or slightly above core price.

bell housing doesn't mean anything as you won't use it anyhow if you keep your original drive train.

As far as "restoring" it means different things to many of us. For myself and many others it means returning the truck to the way it rolled off the showroom floor originally while for others it means rebuilding it to fit their wants.

If you do buy the 235 and rebuild it and paint it up the original 53 truck engine color only those who are well versed in Vintage truck engines will know the difference and unless you are presenting it as all original it isn't a real issue.

[Moeller]

Thank you very much for all of your replies.

I picked up the engine the ohter day (for 500 $). Well, it turns, has oil in it, all valves moves but water pump is stuck.

Time will show if it is worth the money....

I will post some pics when I start the disassemply.

[vintovka]

Probably old news but everytime i see a 235 it reminds me of how much trouble it was. I ran a 235 for over 40 years in my 54. It was basically ok and driven over 45,000 miles until i gave up on it. My primary complaint was oil leakage despite new side and valve cover gaskets, front seals, etc it still would drop oil. The timing cover and balance r was particularly difficult to get right and would always eventually leak. I tried the balancer sleeve method then a new balancer then a new cover and all sorts of gaskets and sealers. All worked for a while and then leaked. MAybe just the way these were or i was cursed.