Steering Wanders

[eskyblaze]

I'm new to the board but not to Blazers I have a 70 blazer 4x4 with a 4" lift and 35" BFG all terrains. I have to drive it from houston to atlanta and my problem is it seems to wander.
I have installed 2 new rancho steering stabalizers and a new AGR steering box to try to fix the problem but it still wanders is this normal and if not does anyone have any suggestions.

[Tonyp]

check the toe-in on the wheels

[eskyblaze]

I can probably take it to a wholesale parts wholesalers shop by my house to check it out. Is there anyway I can check. Thanks for the info is there anything else it could be?

[3wbdriver]

Are you getting any feedback thru the steering wheel when it wanders? I.E. bump steer? Or does the wheel move when you hit a dip or bump?

[eskyblaze]

Yeah the steering wheel moves with the wheelswhen I hit a bump but it also wanders when I am on a smooth road also.
keep the input comming thanks

[71RestoRod]

Sounds to me like you need to check/adjust your caster. I don't know the exact specs, but I would guess you would want something in the 3 to 5 degrees range. The positive caster angle forces the wheels to return to center. This assumes, of course, that the ball joints and other steering components are tight. If the caster is out, you'll need shims to make the adjustment.

[3wbdriver]

I just installed a Skyjacker 4" lift kit in mine last weekend. Part of the kit was a steering correction arm, that raised the arm on the steering knuckle 4" to correct the pittman/draglink angle. With the Rancho system I had before (really stiff front springs), I had no bump steer, even without the correction arm. After all the SJ kit was installed, I had a really wicked steering wheel kick on any dip in the rode (wheel twitched to the right as much as 3"). SJ advised me to remove the corrected arm, and restore some angle to the drag link. This would allow for the rearward movement of the axle , and thusly the steering arm under spring compression. You have to remember, the stock height springs on these things was flat to negative arched, so all up/down action on the axle was in a neutral position in ralation to the gearbox. With a lift, the positive arch of the spring makes the steering geometry want to follow the shackles backward under spring compression, and the steering system either has to follow or twitch the wheels to the left if the steering wheel is held steady.
An added condition of this was that It was next to impossible to hold a straight line at anything over 30 MPH. I put the old stock steering arm back in and the bump steer has to all intenets disappeared, and the swaying has gone back to manageable levels. I have ordered a swaybar kit, and will be trading the tall steering arm for an offset draglink, to restore the ball joints in the draglink back to 0 degrees.
Sorry this has been so long winded, but I have had a lot of time to study the problem in the last 5 days.

[skid]

1st thing is to check the condition of the ball joints, drag link ends, and tie rod ends. Also check the condition of your rag joint. Then have the alignment checked. If everything in the front is ok, check to see if how much rear axle float you have. On these old Blazers, sometimes the rear axle tips have worn against the pinion shaft in the diff causing excess end float. This will "steer" the rear end. To check, jack the rear wheel off the ground and try to slide the axle in and out. There should be only around 0.008"-0.012" travel. If it thunks back and forth, you've found the answer. Check both sides...

[eskyblaze]

Man you guys are good I'm on my way down to mexico and won't be home till thursday but it sounds like I have alot to check out as soon as I get home.
Thanks alot guys is there anything else I should check before I make my treck to Atlanta?

[J.Lance]

My dad remembers having brand new 72 Blazers as company vehicles back in the day. He said they wandered down the road when they were new. Combination of a short wheel base and not enough caster. Chevy went from 4 degrees of positive caster in 69-73 to 8 degrees in 74. I believe a little more caster would help if everything else checks out o.k. After installing my lift on my old blazer, it checked out with only 2 degrees! Of course, all else should be confirmed good, i.e. ball joints, tie rods, etc...

[3wbdriver]

Hey JLance, I think you're talking about caster. Lets not confuse the poor guy any more than he is!!!!!

[J.Lance]

You are correct. Kind of got stuck on that! Corrections have been made. Sorry!

[eskyblaze]

Hey guys, just got back in town thanks for all the advice I'll let you guys know how it goes when I take it to the alignment shop I hope thats it or its going to be a long drive.
Also how do I put a picture of my truck on this site? I know more about cars than computers I think.

Adios,Gene

[mister.freeze]

The Fox wanders when the axle slides back and forth on the spring because the u-bolts get loose. Also, when the gearbox loosens from it's mount to the frame. I got pulled over once because a cop thought I was drunk.

[eskyblaze]

Hey Guys, Thanks for the help I had my truck aligned and told them to bump up the caster to about 8 degrees and that seemed to help alot at highway speed so now I'm setting off on my trek across the country. You guys really helped out alot hopefully I'll be able to repay the favor.

[J.Lance]

Glad to hear that 8 degrees worked. I never actually tried it, just always theorized that it would do the trick. What was the reading prior to setting it to 8?

[skid]

I'm interested in how the alignment shop changed the caster. Did they roll the diff some how?

[eskyblaze]

Well, I made it to Atlanta without any problem besides an empty wallet due to gas. The steering worked great. I'm really not sure how they adjusted the caster becaused I did not see any type of shim under the springs so I really don't know how the did it but whatever they did it helped they did say they adjusted the toe in because it was at zero.
I also got under my truck just before I left and checked the U bolts and the rear were loose. that also made a big difference so I have since tightened all the bolts on the undercairage.
Now the Bump steer is more noticeable. Is there any way to take care of this without putting in crossover steering.

[J.Lance]

Having an alignment shop adjust the caster should be pricey. They make a ball joint sleave that is angled instead of straight so the knuckle will slide in at a slight angle changing the caster. Of course the other way is caster shims underneath the springs. If they didn't charge you a bunch of money and you don't see any shims, I'd be a little suspicious if they actually adjusted the caster.

[3wbdriver]

Look at the steering arm on your axle knuckle. If it arches in and up, it is a corrected arm. That's what was causing my bump steer. If it arches in and slightly down, it's a stock arm. I've been driving mine for 2 weeks since I put the stock arm back in. I have had virtually no bump steer issues since I changed back. The only noticeable bump steer I get is under braking, and that is a VERY slight left tug on the wheel. Absolutely acceptable to me over what I had before!!!!!!! I am putting an offset draglink in, so the ball joints on the draglink won't be under a load when the suspension is. Hope this helps, because that bump steer was scaring the beejesus out of me. Da Beast still wanders on me at highway speed, but it's a short wheelbase, wide footprint, 32 year old truck. It's gonna wanna wander some, especially if you start screwing around with the stock suspension geometry. It's one of the things I love about it. You can't just float away into cruise mode. Ya gotta drive it.......

[Mudder]

Test different air pressure levels in the front tires. I'm running Super Swampers but have found that too much air makes them wander some. Another thing is to make sure the gear box is tight and the frame isn't flexing when you turn the wheel.

[2wdBlazer]

Installing my Borgeson U-Joint on the steering shaft took out a lot of my wandering.