No fluid to rear brakes

[MiraclePieCo]

Still trying to get my brake bleeding issue solved - no fluid to the rear brakes.

I have isolated the lack of fluid to the rear brakes as the combination valve. When I disconnect the lines and pump the pedal there is good flow from the front port but barely a trickle from the rear. I have double checked with air: when I blow through the front brake ports (yum, brake fluid tastes good) there is plenty of flow, but through the rear port almost no air goes through. Please note that it IS NOT THE DIFFERENTIAL VALVE. I am using the little brake bleeding tool, and I have checked that the valve is centered and not triggered. Even disassembled it, manually centered it and marked it with felt pen to visually verify. So what's the problem - did they mistakenly send me a disc/disc valve? Or is this the way it's supposed to be? If so, how do I bleed the system when I can't even get fluid to go through the lines?

[Black_Sheep]

cpp must have a tech line, maybe they can talk you through it. It sounds like the valve isn't centered properly. The instruction sheet from Jeg's website explains how to check it and reset it if necessary.

https://www.jegs.com/installationins...302_631303.pdf

[1project2many]

It could be a faulty valve. I've seen similar problems with aged OEM equipment.

Is that orange piece part of the tool, or is it an adjustment for brake bias?

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

It could be a faulty valve. I've seen similar problems with aged OEM equipment. Is that orange piece part of the tool, or is it an adjustment for brake bias?

Yes, the orange thing is the valve centering tool. I'm suspecting the proportioning mechanism is faulty. I'll call the tech line and see what they say.

This has been frustrating. Thanks for the help guys.

[_Ogre]

i feel for you mr pie, i'm dealing with brake bleeding issues right now
simple freaking hydraulic system my butt!
no idea why a double mc is prefered over a single for safety
if you crack 1 bleeder screw lose the pedal goes to the floor, break a line... pedal to the floor

[MiraclePieCo]

This is the first time I've used the OEM-style GM prop valves - they are a pain. Latest word from the dealer (POL) is that they had a run of bad ones, and they're sending me a new one gratis. Unfortunately that means another delay on my build while I wait for it to arrive.

[mr48chev]

I'm not familiar with that one but have had a couple of the tangs on the switch that fits there break of and cause the piston to stick when someone was overly exuberant at pumping the brakes at one end of the rig.

Set up right a dual piston master cylinder will stop a car if one side develops a sudden leak. I've had it happen both ways and would rather limp home or to a safe spot to stop with the brakes on one end working rather than not stop at all. Drove my little 55 Metropolitan rag top home 25 miles with the park brake one afternoon after loosing the brakes. I blew a wheel cylinder on that one when I was 17 years old. Dang lucky it was a little car as I had to slip between the car in front of me and one at the curb and only left a little bit of green paint on one bumper bolt on the car sitting at the curb.

[hogfarm]

I had almost the same problem awhile back,I could not get my brakes to bleed.I was getting fluid to the front but nothing to the rear.My 58 truck uses the same valve you have.It seemed the I was not getting enough throw from the pedal to the master cylinder,made a bushing put in master cylinder,fixed it,I can't find the picture but it is in an old post of mine

[1project2many]

Originally Posted by hogfarm

I had almost the same problem awhile back,I could not get my brakes to bleed.I was getting fluid to the front but nothing to the rear.My 58 truck uses the same valve you have.It seemed the I was not getting enough throw from the pedal to the master cylinder,made a bushing put in master cylinder,fixed it,I can't find the picture but it is in an old post of mine

This can be checked easily enough. Press and hold pedal then crack brake line at master. Front flow should roughly match rear flow. The pedal will need to be pressed once for each line.

[iceman4]

Originally Posted by MiraclePieCo

This is the first time I've used the OEM-style GM prop valves - they are a pain. Latest word from the dealer (POL) is that they had a run of bad ones, and they're sending me a new one gratis. Unfortunately that means another delay on my build while I wait for it to arrive.

Had the same problem. Bad Prop valve. Installed the duel master cylinder power brake kit. Tried everything but Could not get the rear brakes to bleed, They sent me a new one,works fine so far.

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by iceman4

Had the same problem. Bad Prop valve. Installed the duel master cylinder power brake kit. Tried everything but Could not get the rear brakes to bleed, They sent me a new one,works fine so far.

That's the conclusion I finally came to, and when I contacted the manufacturer with the symptoms they agreed and are sending me a replacement at no charge. Sure had me going in circles however! Now I hope the new one works properly.

Welcome to the forum and thanks for your helpful reply.

[hogfarm]

waiting to hear what you found

[iceman4]

Originally Posted by MiraclePieCo

That's the conclusion I finally came to, and when I contacted the manufacturer with the symptoms they agreed and are sending me a replacement at no charge. Sure had me going in circles however! Now I hope the new one works properly.

Welcome to the forum and thanks for your helpful reply.

Thanks MiraclePieCo. Been following this forum for awhile, The knowledge of the members has been very helpful as I slowly upgrade different things. The difficult part with the CCP prop valve was trying to determine if it was centered. The centering hole is very small. The Tech suggested several things to try, nothing worked. Very frustrating! Hopefully they got all the bad valves off the market. Best of luck

[hogfarm]

Did ya ever get this figured out?

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by hogfarm

Did ya ever get this figured out?

Yes, just got it today.

I installed the replacement prop valve from POL and fluid is flowing out the rear lines now. They admitted that they had a run of bad valves and I was one of the unlucky recipients. But they were great and replaced it at no charge, free next day shipping.

I just did a gravity bleed today before running out of time. I didn't expect fluid to come out, so ended up with a rather large puddle on the garage floor, which was actually GOOD news! Pedal is now nice and firm - what a relief!

[1project2many]

I am glad to hear that you got this fixed. But as a commentary...

They admitted that they had a run of bad valves and I was one of the unlucky recipients.

This is one of the reasons I carry extra concern about aftermarket parts suppliers using unbranded parts.

OEM error = recall. OEM required to attempt to locate anyone who has faulty parts and repair / replace.

Aftermarket branded error = parts retailer / wholesaler notifications which are passed on to customers. Supplier liability for replacement if repair facility or customer comes in.

Aftermarket unbranded error = Vendor response: "Sorry. Glad you didn't kill anyone. Happy to send you a new valve." Who takes care of alerting other owners?

Some things are ok, but always remember "Buyer Beware" with unbranded parts.

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

Aftermarket unbranded error = Vendor response: "Sorry. Glad you didn't kill anyone. Happy to send you a new valve." Who takes care of alerting other owners?

It's a new era of internet information; more auto enthusiasts use these forums than ever before and information travels rapidly throughout the automotive community. Fortunately for us, posting to this and other forums by end users such as ourselves is a very effective method of communicating safety issues.