55.2 Rear Suspension Choices

[talmadgemoss]

I'm installing a IFS with 2'' drop spindles and need to get the rear suspension to match to get the stance right. I've been looking at the TCI lowering spring set up and a 4 link. I'm wondering if I should invest the money on a more adjustable 4 link or if the lowering spring would be all I need. There is a cost difference of course so wonder what everyone's thoughts where. My biggest concern is if I decide to bag it later I would need the 4 link.

[bowt1ed]

You will undoubtedly get several opinions on the subject. However, your overall goal of how you will use/eventually use the truck will likely have some bearing on it. Cruiser, daily driver, drag,........? I decided on a No Limit Fat Bar set up because I thought it would best suit my needs (read desires) to occasionally and adequately apply some ponies to the pavement when my right foot was feeling the effects of gravity.

Cheers, Jim

[talmadgemoss]

I understand it's going to be a cruiser for sure. I just didn't want to have to change it later if I wanted to upgrade to an air ride system. I'm installing a SBC with 330 advertised horse power so that shouldn't be an issue either way.

[mr48chev]

I think you answered you own question. In the long run what is the most cost effective?

I would hunt a kit that would go either way though. That way you don't have to make wholesale changes if you bag it. Still the cost of the coil overs VS the cost of bags might turn it into a now instead of later deal.

[talmadgemoss]

Thanks for the insight. I might need to do a bit more looking and research into the bag systems before I make a purchase.

[Speedbumpauto]

I did the Art Morrison fat bar parallel 4 link. The idea being I could replace the coil overs with ShockWave's IF I ever wanted to bag. Never have and those things are REALLY expensive, anyway. I, personally don't like the track locator bar on the kit you showed for the street. Morrison kit came with a panhard bar which, IMO, is better. The real advantage I see to the coil overs is ride ht. adjustability. If it doesn't look right to you when done, it's easy to fix. I'll also say a parallel 4 link isn't the greatest for serious traction, IMO. You don't have the ability to adjust instant center to load the tires. I can eat the Hoosiers on my truck through 2 gears on the street. I am going to try a "fun" run at the Tri 5 nats next week in Bowling Green and see if a prepped surface makes any difference.

[talmadgemoss]

Thanks I'll take a look at Art Morrison I didn't even think about them.

[G&R's57GMC]

I went with the NoLimit Fat Bar rear with air bags and Currie 9".
In any case you want the track bar level at ride height.
I also went with NoLimit WideRide front IFS with air bags , Power R&P and disc brakes

[talmadgemoss]

Nice I'm actually looking at their systems now. I went the same way on the IFS with power rack and disc, but purchased through Checkered Racing.

[talmadgemoss]

G&R's57GMC did you use nolimit for rear end as well? I see they offer one with the fat bar set up. I actually emailed them asking if they could provide it with 11'' drum brakes, gears ready to go. We'll see when they reply.

[G&R's57GMC]

Back in 2010 after I removed all the unnecessary brackets. I had my frame sand blasted then took it home and sprayed on 2 coats of Duplacolor self etching primer and 2 coats of Duplacolor semi gloss black .
Then I took a road trip down to San Bernardino to No Limit and had Rob install the Wide Ride IFS and the Fat Bar rear with the Currie 9" loaded with limited slip and drum brakes. It only took 2 days and a bunch of $$$ . I even got their fuel tank.

[talmadgemoss]

Nice! I'm hoping to get an email back Monday or I will call them to talk it over. Living in Louisiana I will be getting it installed locally. I received my fuel tank this last week too, so hopefully have the bed off soon for the rear end work.

[_Ogre]

i went the cheap route...
flipped axle on top of stock springs with a 3'' c-notch, matched the fatman ifs front drop
after 36000 miles, the only thing i'd change would be a 5'' c-notch

other than rebuilding the spring shackles, the drop kit was sorced from a trailer supply house for $29

[dsraven]

think about tire sizes and wheel backspacing when looking at the kits. some have stuff on the outside of the frame and some tuck it all inside.
inside is better for wheel backspacing but not so good for exhaust routing etc
a panhard bar may also give more room and possibly be stronger in a 4 link scenario. if going this way try to use a long bar as opposed to a short bar because that way there is less differential side movement as the axle goes up and down. a short bar moves in a shorter arc so the diff moves more side to side. this is most important if you are running less room between the tires and fenders etc. when at ride height the panhard bar should be parallel to the ground, so the arc is affected less and diff moves less side to side.
adjustable coilovers could possibly be your best bet because when setting it up with a new front spring set up in place the truck will sit at the rake angle you have set up. then, when the front springs "set" and sag a bit the rake angle will be affected. if using adjustable coil overs then you can simply adjust the coilovers in the rear to match the sag in the front.
leafs with different or adjustable shackle hangers can affect the pinion angle, just a heads up.
air ride could be nice but is spendy and has other components that also take room and time to set up etc. cool though.
make sense?

[talmadgemoss]

dsraven thanks that does make sense. I actually have thought about the wheel spacing and looking into having the coil overs inside the frame to allow more room for the wheel and tire set up. I have made the decision not to go with the leaf springs due do just what you stated about being able to set the ride height. I would love to bag it, but with the current spending I have been doing that will have to wait to a later date.

[talmadgemoss]

Well the suspension has been bought went with the TCI 4 link with Ride Tech coil overs and shocks. Also got the 9'' Currie rear end with 11'' drum brakes and 3.5 gears. Now just waiting for them to arrive.

[dsraven]

better get that frame prepped up.
do a corner to corner check for frame alignment (allowed about 1/8 by the factory manual)
do a front to rear check for frame bend and also sag (you can mark the center of each cross member then run a string down from front to rear and see if they all line up)
set the frame on stands and get it levelled up at your rake angle, mark your axle center line so you have a reference later
take pics
post pics
smile when done