05-09-2004, 12:52 AM | #1 |
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Location: Sudbury, Ontario, Canada
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Cut coils?
I know this has been asked before and I was having issues with the search so I will ask it here.
When you cut your front coils I already know that you cut one complete coil off. Do you cut one coil form the bottom of it or from the top. The top of the coil gets smaller but the bottom stays the same size.
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Mike Email: Click here to email me -- 2019 Silvedrado 4x4 1970 Chevy 3/4 ton, 396BB, on air bags |
05-09-2004, 12:55 AM | #2 |
67-72 parts collector,…
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BOTTOM. 1/2 coil should equal 1 inch of drop. (1 full coil =2 inch drop, 1 1/2 coil= 3 inch drop, etc.)
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05-09-2004, 01:03 AM | #3 |
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Thanks I will probably cut 1 full coil to level it out till I buy real drop coils. It is not going on the road anytime soon , it was just for looks while it sits waiting to get worked on.
Here is the post with the pics http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...762#post829762
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Mike Email: Click here to email me -- 2019 Silvedrado 4x4 1970 Chevy 3/4 ton, 396BB, on air bags |
05-10-2004, 05:04 PM | #4 |
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just be sure not to cut them with a torch. I have heard that the ehat will bugger up the integrity of the coil. I plan on cutting mine as well to drop the front end 2 " and then install 2" lowering blocks on the rear
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05-10-2004, 05:58 PM | #5 |
Fabricate till you "puke"
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1 ring off the coils will get you 2 1/2 - 3"....from what I have seen, & you should go a full ring to get them to "seat" properly in the top & bottom. As far as torching the spring, yes you can! Here is how.....toss the spring upside down in a 5 gallon bucket of water,so that the last ring is all that is exposed & torch off the exposed end there wont be enough heat transfer into the spring to hurt anything. A word of warning ,cut coil springs do cause a little bump steer.....the longhorn doesnt handle bad, but does get a little "spooky" over some of the potholes. bump steer is due to the tierod angles "jacking" the toe when they move up/down, & that is a problem with over about 2" drop (on a spring only) on these old trucks. Best of luck,crazyL
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05-10-2004, 06:04 PM | #6 |
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crazy longhorn is correct in how to use a torch without ruining the spring. I have done it with success a couple of times. Another option is a high speed cut off wheel but if you don't have the tool or a compressor, there another poor boy way that works. Take a regular old circular saw, and put a tile blade in it. A tile blade is nothing more than a thin abrasive wheel that fits your circular saw. It will cut through the spring with no problem. Just make sure the spring is stable, so the saw doesn't kick back. This could cause the saw to walk up your leg and try to give you a crude vasectomy. Not that I have ever done anything stupid like that....
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05-11-2004, 12:04 AM | #7 |
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Well I cut them both down this weekend. Coils form another suspension I had. I ended up using my grinder with a cutoff wheel on it. Took about a minute per spring, it was quick. I went with one full coil. This is only temporary till I get real drop coils. If I went with real 2" drop coils compared to cut coils would I still get that bump steer??
Now to get time to install them. The rear ones went quick, the front will be a bit more work.
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Mike Email: Click here to email me -- 2019 Silvedrado 4x4 1970 Chevy 3/4 ton, 396BB, on air bags |
05-11-2004, 01:10 AM | #8 |
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I cut a coil and a half off of mine we used a chop saw it came out really nice lowered it 3 inches but Like stated sucks in potholes.
I honestly think drop coils will give the same ride as cut ones unless there just some really nice drop coils all the ones ive seen so far rfide same as stock cut springs Im going to cut a set of heavy duty front coils and see how they react Im not sure but i think i have the lighter ones Just make sure you get the bottom of the spring at the 6 o clock position when lookin at the spring cup On mine 1 1/2 coil if i jack the truck up by the cross memeber the a arms drop too far and i have to jack them up while alinging the spring So be carefull and watch for that I had jacked my truck up to work on it once and when i let it back down it was taller turned out the spring wasnt lined up at the top and was sitting on the round Alingment Peg instead of sitting in around it . |
05-11-2004, 09:25 AM | #9 |
Fabricate till you "puke"
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Cutting the springs changes the rate. it makes them effectively stiffer. I am not sure about the ride differences, but ride is not the issue on my longhorn. It rides good, but the shorter coils mess with the front end geometry.....anything over about a 2" drop (on a spring only)on these old trucks will cause some problems. I plan some upgrades, but havent decided whether it will be a dropped spindle, or tubular a arms(3" drop on the arms , or 2 1/2" on the spindle). either way, with a 1 1/2" spring, or bags the height & ride/handle should be the way it should. Good luck,crazyL
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69 longhorn,4" chop,3/5 drop, 1/2 ton suspension/disc brakes,1 1/2" body drop,steel tilt clip, 5.3/Edelbrock rpm intake/600 carb, Hooker streetrod shorties,2 1/2" exhaust/ H pipe/50's Flows , 6 spd Richmond trans,12 bolt/ 3.40 gears.... |
05-11-2004, 04:59 PM | #10 |
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My 4" drop springs rode a lot better than my cut springs. If you get progressive rate springs it will be even better. They get stiffer as the spring compresses as opposed to the linear (graphed) rating on the stock springs.
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05-20-2004, 10:54 AM | #11 |
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i have the W.C. 1 1/2" drop coils up front and would like another inch. Could I remove 1/2 a coil and get it?
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