55.2-59 My 56 build

[dsraven]

haha, I'm still ridin.
just got a mental image of some cowboy riding the fenceline, sunset behind, old dog running next....
I gotta get more sleep, lol.

[Jason 56]

Thanks for the help n links guys. Upon further review and some research I came to the conclusion that my front cross member won’t work. I had the cross member level when I started welded it in, but it must of pulled due to heating. It ended up tilted forward high like the upper mounts. My research tells me this will negate much of my anti dive. Amazing how looking at something else you can find an error made previously. I also saw that my rack mounts were too low and would likely of had a bump steer problem. So I’m back to the beginning again. Now that the front end is off again, I’m resetting the front end for the new rake and rear end. Why not! I’m going to set the front lower cross member parallel to the frame instead of level. The couple of degrees raked like the frame should help anti dive. At least that’s what my research tells me

[dsraven]

when re-installing use the shafts for the lower control arms, slid into their sleeves in the crossmember, for the level. rather than using the top or bottom of the crossmembr. it will be more accurate. a digital level is also best rather than a bubble level. tack weld it in, then recheck. hen all good use short qelds and allow to cool between welding.

[Jason 56]

After looking through lots of other builds I realize that it’s thread should be in the build forum. Anyone know how to move it there?

[Jason 56]

Have the lower cross member back in place. Just tacked in for now. Thanks Dennis for the suggestions on the leveling. I also went out n bought a digital level. Got the rack n pinion back in today after cutting c-notches. Also began the bodywork with patches in the cowl and fixing the hole someone cut in the dash. I went under the dash, welded the cowl and firewall together so I could remove the lip on the firewall. I’ve decided to go with a LS now that I have the other engine cut out again. Anyone know if I’m going to have to make the firewall notch any larger

[dsraven]

you may have interference on the drivers side due to the injection rails. if the engine is moved forward you may decrease the dimension between the water pump snout and the rad to the point where a more spendy and less available electric fan will be required. do a little homework on that fan costing and availability. the other thing is the oil pan set up. I used one from a 2002 camaro because it is quite a bit shallower then the truck pan I had it came as a kit with the baffle, pump pick up tube,dipstick and tube and a gasket. I also used the camaro exhaust manifolds which should fit nicely between your frame rails with the boxing plates installed. that way if you want to use headers later it may be easier to find a set that fit. ensure you will have enough room for the steering column shaft to connect to the rack without hitting a manifold or being placed at some odd angle for the column u joints. for mounts, again, I used camaro mounts of the same vintage that bolt to the engine with urethane guts in them, got the engine sitting where I wanted it so there is room above the steering rack for the pulley and belts etc, levelled it side to side and got it at the correct down at the rear angle. then blocked it there and simply fabbed up some brackets to connect the mounts to the frame. mine was fabbed so the plates unbolted from the frame for ease of engine removal/install in the future. on the l/h side where the steering shaft goes I made the plates for the engine mounts in such a way that the steering column went below one plate and above the other plate. if you end up recessing the firewall for engine clearance don't be shy, make enough room the first time. just remember to make sure you have a comfortable angle and access for the accel pedal on the inside. the other stuff isn't as critical. I made mine 4" deep. you can go high just remember to factor in room for the wiper motor and linkages. I replaced the whole width with 16ga steel that I had a shop bend to the right angles. if you do this remember to make a template for the hood hinge mounts and also roughly where the holes are for the column and brake pedals (if using the under the floor master cylinder).
hope something in there will help
have fun, post pics

[Jason 56]

I already plan on redoing the whole firewall with 16 gauge. The previous owner got a little carried away with his drill n saws all! I’ve been following 55 chevy dave’s (Dave has some crazy good sheet metal skills) build n like the looks of the wheelbarrow trick. I’ll probably leave mine full width if I have room for the gas pedal. My metal fab neighbor also has a 2 foot brake I could use... so we’ll see which route I go. Was wondering what width to make it. I haven’t obtained my new power plant. May have a line on a 2011 6.2 L ... I’ll see if I can sell my current engine for funding

[Jason 56]

Sent my Christmas break working on the truck ( between family time of course). Pulled the frame back out n began tearing the back apart again. Took about 2 day of work, but not bad. Now that I have the rear frame redone, I built my shock mounts. Still need to do a little grinding to clean everything up! Think the shock angle should be ok. Any thoughts? Also had a question about a/c. I noticed a lot of guys smooth out the dash when they put a/c in... is there no room for the glove box if you do this?

[slammed57]

lookin really good

[my56chevytruck]

Very nice work, looking great

[idbeast]

Originally Posted by Jason 56

Also had a question about a/c. I noticed a lot of guys smooth out the dash when they put a/c in... is there no room for the glove box if you do this?

You might need to save theses photos then zoom in to see better. My Vintage Air is currently out of the truck right now (again).

As you can see the a/c unit fits up to the lower dash brace, so just a little room to store Registration and Insurance info along with a thin wallet (that's because all my money went into the truck).


Jim W

[Jason 56]

Thank for the photos. That’s what I figured. I was planning on doing the same dash setup as yours. Is that going to be a 9” touch screen radio?

[idbeast]

Originally Posted by Jason 56

Thank for the photos. That’s what I figured. I was planning on doing the same dash setup as yours. Is that going to be a 9” touch screen radio?

Yes it's a 9" Touch screen Navigation stereo, Alpine iLX-F309 single din body however the touch screen is manually moveable for install setup then screws hold it in a fixed position in whatever the finished location.

A double din stereo won't work if you are using a Vintage Air and electric wipers, no room. However the alpine fit really well!

I wasted 2K on an Alpine X008 8in double din that wouldn't fit and CarToy's wouldn't take back because I had it over 90 days!

[Jason 56]

Originally Posted by idbeast

Yes it's a 9" Touch screen Navigation stereo, Alpine iLX-F309 single din body however the touch screen is manually moveable for install setup then screws hold it in a fixed position in whatever the finished location.

A double din stereo won't work if you are using a Vintage Air and electric wipers, no room. However the alpine fit really well!

I wasted 2K on an Alpine X008 8in double din that wouldn't fit and CarToy's wouldn't take back because I had it over 90 days!

Wow 2k... that sucks. I also figured I had room for a double din. Thanks for the info! I was actually looking into that alpine iLX-F309 stereo. Again thanks for saving me the headache

[idbeast]

Originally Posted by Jason 56

Wow 2k... that sucks. I also figured I had room for a double din. Thanks for the info! I was actually looking into that alpine iLX-F309 stereo. Again thanks for saving me the headache

You're welcome!

Yes, major sucks! Here are a couple pics of the dash painted, in the 1st picture it shows the Vintage Air unit much better!

Also notice the shadows of the instrument cluster opening and the stereo opening, looks really close to being the same! (bragging!)


Jim W

[58 pache]

Wow, I like what you did with the dash and color.
Nice work on the rear end too. I have a ford 9" that's been sitting in the garage way too long. Might be time for me to get up off my arse and do some work!

[idbeast]

Originally Posted by 58 pache

Wow, I like what you did with the dash and color.
Nice work on the rear end too. I have a ford 9" that's been sitting in the garage way too long. Might be time for me to get up off my arse and do some work!

Thanks 58 pache, it's all a work of love, time and a lot of cussing!!!


Glad I inspired you! ROFLMAO


Jim W

[Jason 56]

Finished welding up the rest of the frame and added 45 degree angle supports in the center of the frame. Thinking this should prevent prevent Any unwanted frame flexing. I mounted them at a downward angle and put a notch in them so I can still run lines to the rear. Also finished the rack and pinion notches.

[Jason 56]

Bodywork day 1... it begins braced the interior of the cab and cut out the floor and firewall. I have a sheet of 14 gauge to start replacing the floor, firewall and all the small repair panels I plan on making. As you can see I have some repairs to do in the lower cowl area.

Idbeast, that dash look awesome. Hopefully mine looks as nice when I’m done

[Jason 56]

Started my sheet metal work by trying to figure out what to replace, build and buy. Two cups of coffee later I had a game plan I started on the left hand side with the lower outer cowl and inner kick panel. Also got the floor pan cut out. On to the right hand side tomorrow!

[Jason 56]

I restarted this thread in the build forum as it should be! The link in my signature ahold take you there!