47-55.1 52 build ls3 6 speed

[Mizzou52]

need help with steps on final mock up before paint. Cab, doors rad mount, hood etc.. Any tips or sites pics would be appreciated. Thanx

[dsraven]

Are you talking about setting body gaps etc or how to get it smooth, steps for what to use and in what order?

[b-mac]

If you're talking about assembly, I'm pretty sure someone has a step by step posted on here somewhere.

[e015475]

Try this

https://talk.classicparts.com/thread...le-an-ad.9530/

[dsraven]

nice

[Mizzou52]

thanx for the pics and replies. I have some aftermarket body parts and trying to get everything to fit before send to paint. I was thinking of squaring cab on frame. doors, rad mount, hood then fenders is this correct or any other suggestions.

[Mizzou52]

thanx for the detailed pics on the link. Beautiful truck, will definitely need those for final assembly. If I am not to old.

[e015475]

Just a couple more tips-

-Assemble the front fenders and inner-fenders together before you install them on the truck.

-Use body bolts with the integral washer and the pointy lead-in end. They are much easier to start than a regular bolt. Run a tap through all the captive nuts before assembly. (I just put the tap in the drill motor and run it in and out once) I buy them black phosphate coated. A good assortment of drifts, spuds and pry bars are handy to bring everything into alignment.

-Make sure you have fresh bushings and pads on the cab mounts. New wood bed blocks and rubber pads are good too.

-Have the latch assembly and hinges completely off the truck and set the hood on. If the gaps look good then any misalignment from that point on is NOT from improper core support shims, fender to cab mounting, or brace rod adjustment. If the gaps are wrong then it IS from one of the above. It cuts the possible causes in half. (from 'coilover' over on classictrucks.com. I followed his advice)

-Decide if you are going to run fender welt. Fender welt will hide some imperfections at the bolt-up flange, but if you are going without external welt you'll need to crispen up the edges of the fender where it meets the body or bedside. One of my front fenders had a little gap to the body so I made of clamping plates out of .25" plate to draw the joint together.

-I shimmed the radiator support with paint sticks to get the hood fitting right then machined a spacer for it.

-The hood springs tend to push the sided of the hood out. I took them out and use a prop rod for the hood,

-The front clip and the doors were all trial fitted before paint, but I didn't bother with the bed, rear fenders, and running boards until after paint. Worked out ok

- Don't forget to check the little curved apron that goes from the running board to the bed, especially if it is a repop part. The gap to the cab was very uneven on mine and I had to reform the edge to get a good gap.