Finally starting my engine swap project: 5.3/4L60e into '84 short bed 2wd

[jrblanke]

I started assembly a couple weeks ago and discovered there was a lot more cleaning than I anticipated. Also, It has been challenging/frustrating doing the engine build outside with all of the pollen and tree crap falling, but I finally got the short block assembled.

I also learned that it is worth the extra money to get a quality piston ring compressor. I borrowed a friends cheap universal compressor and ended up messing up 1 piston ring, so I had to order another set of piston rings. Trying to save 40 bucks ended up costing me $130

Now that the bottom end is together, next step is to degree the cam. Probably another days work and I'll have the oil pan and cylinder heads on. Then I'll clean the injectors and put on the intake.

[tinydb84]

Short block is looking good. All your work will pay off!

[jrblanke]

Thanks David! It feels good to make progress. There for a while it seemed like the deeper I dug, the more I screwed up.


Progress for this week included figuring out that I still need to figure out how to degree the camshaft, putting on the front and rear timing covers, bolting on the oil pump, and the torquing down the cylinder heads.










Here is the engine with the heads bolted down. Before putting them on I measured how much the piston comes out of the bore (0.002"), and then subtracted that from the thickness of the headgasket (0.051) and it was 0.049". I think that is a little thicker than optimal, but I think I'm just going to run it.






One thing I wanted to mention is that my trailblazer LH6 block had a plug in the side that I was able to knock out for the oil dip stick. I read that some have to be drilled and some have plugs. I lucked out and had a plug. I also found that I will have to get the truck power steering/alternator bracket and power steering pump in order to clear the steering box. The trailblazer pump sticks out too far.






Next step will be to degree the cam (I really want to skip this, but its something that probably needs to be done). After that, I will go ahead and put the valley cover, oil pan, and harmonic balancer.

[jrblanke]

I got the cam degreed. I thought I was way off at first, but it ends up I was turning the engine the wrong way. D'oh!

[jrblanke]

Hey guys,
Quick update.
I finished building the engine last month. Oil pan, harmonic balancer, and timing covers are installed. My only concern is that my torque wrench only went up to 150, so I was unable to torque the balancer to 240 ft lbs. I believe I am going to try to get it a little tighter with a breaker bar. I definitely don’t want to strip out the crank.

Next step for the engine is to clean the intake, injectors, and fuel rail. Then that should be ready to bolt to the transmission.

Speaking of the transmission… This past weekend I converted the transmission to a 2wd. I work for a company that manufactures Aisin/Toyota transmissions, so I am familiar with all of the parts, but I didn’t have any experience with GM units. I spent some time reading about the weak points of the 4l60 and tried to address some of those during the 4wd to 2wd conversion. I used youtube videos to guide me through the rebuild.

In addition to new seals, o-rings, and clutch discs, I upgraded following parts: 3-4 clutch pack with borg warner high energy discs , 2-4 band with a high energy band, sunshell to sonnax smart shell, and sonnax line pressure boost valve kit. I also confirmed that the previous owner installed a trans-go HD2 shift kit, aluminum 1-2 accumulator piston, and corvette servo.

The biggest challenge was keeping foreign matter out of the trans while doing all of this in my driveway. The number 1 cause of failure that I see at my work is foreign material making its way into the valve body. This results in stuck valves, burned discs, etc. I have seen valves stick from material as small as 0.5 mm (20 thousandths).


At work right now, I'll post pictures later.

[jrblanke]

Here are the pictures...


Completed engine



4wd 4l60e before disassembly




Work area....



More work area..after output shaft removal



trans is broken down to the point where the snap ring can be removed on the output shaft.



2wd output shaft is the longer one



Reassembled except for the pump, extension housing, bell housing, and servo. Need a completed unit picture.

[jrblanke]

Update:

Got the trans back together. I realized after putting it together the first time that I had left out the plastic thrust washer that goes between the reverse drum and the pump. upon removal of the pump, I descovered that my reverse drum bushings were scratched from a burr that was on the pump. So I had to get some new bushings and have them put in. That put me behind a few weeks (you know lack of motivation). Anyways, here it is:


I got the passenger side motor mount and adaptor plate modified to clear the compressor. This weekend, I will put it in the truck and see if I can reposition the passenger side engine stand.







Got the old tanks pulled, and the new ones assembled with the pumps and pickups. The passenger side tank brackets were in pretty rusty but the drivers sides were in good shape. I have been going back and forth to whether or not I put that tank destroyers back on it or not.










This weekend, I hope to get the engine and transmission mated together and stuck into the truck. We will see how it goes.

[jrblanke]

I set the motor in the truck and it looks like everything is going to fit, but I did find some problems.

1. The trailblazer 5.3 AC compressor bolts to the trailblazer oil pan. Since I changed oil pans, the bottom 2 compressor bolts do not have anything to bolt to. So I can either make some sort of bracket to try to adapt the trailblazer AC bracket/compressor to the block, or buy a truck compressor and bracket, or buy a Sanden compressor and relocation system. If I go with the relocation system, then there is no reason to relocate the frame mounts. I can’t believe I didn’t notice that the TB bracket bolted to the oil pan.
2. Broke the little stud off of the starter. Now I have to replace the solenoid or the starter. Gah.
3. I forgot to install the dowel pins between the bell housing and the block when I mated up the transmission to the engine. I don’t think it will be an issue, but it’s still frustrating.
4. I have to figure out the temperature sensor and oil pressure sensor situation. I have read a few threads on this, but will need to take a closer look. the adapter I purchased is not threading into the head.

That's all for now.

[Mr.Chevy4x4]

Looks like you're making good progress. I'm thinking hard about doing the 5.3/4l60e conversion to my '86 short bed. I'll be following along with your build. I'm over on the Raleigh side of Wilson. I have a truck AC bracket from another build if you need it. (free).

Mike

[jrblanke]

Thanks Mike,
I am just now checking back on my thread. I had considered getting a truck bracket and compressor, but ended up getting the TB one to work. Id be happy to give all the tips I can with your swap. My first advice would be to NOT get one from a trailblazer. Second advice would be to do this in a garage so you don't have to pick up all your crap every night, or wait for nice weather, haha.



Here is the latest update. Pics to follow.
I finished the fabrication of the compressor adaptor plate. The trailblazer uses a different style compressor from the trucks.This compressor bolts to an aluminum cradle which then bolts to the engine block and oil pan. Since I went with the "hot rod" oil pan, there were no lower mounts for the compressor. I used 3/8" thick aluminum plate to make the adaptor. I had to grind quite a bit on the aluminum cradle, but iit fits. The top had to be spaced out between 3/8 to 1/2" to acomidate for the plate. Test fitting the engine revealed that it will fit fine. My only worry is rubbing between the compressor wire harness and the brake line.

I have ordered the coolant temprature sensor for the factory gauge and adaptor. Still trying to decide what to do with the oil pressure sending unit. I would like to make one like "First C10" did. I don't know if the E40 ECM for the LH6 will require it or not. Most threads I read say their LS does not require that sensor.

I have had the engine in and out of the truck twice. Hopefully this weekend will be the final time. I have posted a separate thread about engine alignment. That is the only thing that is concerning me right now.

Coolant temprature adapter - Autometer 2277
Coolant temprature sensor - Autometer 2259
Oil pressure sending unit adaptor - Autometer 2268 (may not use if I can get fittings to make a T)

[jrblanke]

Pictures of plate/bracket.






Grinding the cradle to allow flat fitment of the plate/bracket.




Had to space out the top of the bracket to account for the plate. Also had to get some new bolts to make sure there was enough bolt to thread contact.


Bracket on.


Here is the compressor bolted up.


Next step is to weld a piece of metal to the frame so the engine stand can be bolted to it. Didn't get much done this past weekend.

[terrylgreenjr]

I used the Holley LS A/C compressor bracket so I could use the factory compressor and lines from my 91 Suburban. It works great I've been running it for over 2 years. I have some pics if you would like to see it let me know

[jrblanke]

That would be great Terry. Post away!

[terrylgreenjr]

Hope this works

[77K10Silverado]

Nice work!

[NewType72]

Holy moly did you make the right call on thoroughly cleaning that block, great prep work and very tidy. Love he build keep it up

[jrblanke]

Yikes, I can’t believe its been 2.5 years since I have worked on this truck. About 1 month after my last post, we found out we were going to be having our first kid. She is now 1.5, and I need to get the truck out of the way by July in order for her to have a swing set and sand box. It’s amazing how priorities change, haha.

So with that being said, the need has returned to get the truck finished. It has been outside under a tarp for the past 3 years. At least I had enough foresight to put duct tape over all the openings in the engine, so hopefully it will still be ok to start after sitting for 3 years. I guess I’ll cross that bridge when I get there. I haven’t planned that far ahead yet.

The engine is in the truck, but nothing is hooked up. It is basically sitting on the engine/trans mounts with the bolts threaded through the holes.

I put together a “to do”/ Priority list, which seems kind of overwhelming to look at. My intent was to try to look ahead enough to order my parts at the same time so I don’t incur unnecessary extra shipping costs. As some people say, you eat an elephant 1 bite at a time.

I am making this post to motivate myself to get out there and work on the truck, as well as to document when I started back at this whole process. It might be a couple weeks before my next progress report. But one thing at a time.

I’ll try to attach the spreadsheet of what is left to do.
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[jrblanke]

Deleted double post.