Cross flow rad in a 65?

[bigmoe]

Has anyone ever found a cross flow rad that fit our trucks with a little cobbling? I'm doing an LS swap in my 65. I'm planning ahead for the rad and air intake. I have this idea that I would like the intake and outlet to both be on the pass. side and the air intake to go toward the drivers side. Much neater than that long upper hose going across. I'm told that a standard type rad should have the hoses on opposite sides. Cross flow would work though.

[LH Lead-Foot]

You can give Griffin Radiator a try. They offer double pass and cross-flow in an "LS" configuration with top inlet and bottom, both on passengers side. 800-722-3723 or
www.griffin rad.com
Eastwood is selling cross-flow as well. I guess, If you want it, someone sells it.
Good hunting and best on your project.

Side note, guy bragging: I was a service manger at a marine dealer with many lines, but the premier fiberglass line was Sea Ray up to 32ft. On my way to the front office, I noticed an older guy looking over a 32ft w/twin 7.4L, generator, everything. It's not my job but asked if I can help. He asked some good questions.
Then after 30 minutes, I excused myself.
He said; "I've made good money and found one truth in life...We (Us Guys) want everything bigger, our car, our house, our boat, my wallet, the garage, hell...even my wife's bra. The one truth is we want everything bigger except the wife's ass"

[bigmoe]

[QUOTE=LH Lead-Foot;8487139]You can give Griffin Radiator a try. They offer double pass and cross-flow in an "LS" configuration with top inlet and bottom, both on passengers side. 800-722-3723 or
www.griffin rad.com
Eastwood is selling cross-flow as well. I guess, If you want it, someone sells it.
Good hunting and best on your project.

Thanks LH. The Griffin one looks interesting. The Eastwood ones are lower priced but they don't have one with inlet and outlet both on the right.

[bigmoe]

I'll probably be going with the Griffin 1-28222TLS. It will have correct hose sizes both on the passenger side and a steam fitting. It's 1/2" wider than stock but 4" shorter. Not a bolt in so it will take some fabbing to install. $437 is not the cheapest option but I just don't really like that wonky upper hose that goes over to the driver's side.

[LH Lead-Foot]

Hope it works out all right for you "Bigmoe". I have read where many come up bone yard twin fans out of Mercury's or Ford Crown Vic's. You can probable do a search for LS electric Fan's, just make sure to hit the 67-72chevytrucks.com button.
Having the actual measurements will help, so getting the radiator out of the box like Christmas day, then walking quickly to the garage and holding like a baby to drop it in, will tell you a lot.

I do drawings and put measurements on it, then hit the bone yard. If you are going that route. I like the spiral blade types as they seen to be quite that tradition blade designs.

Using relays on separate circuits is be best practice route to go and talk to your programmer. They can tell you with terminal / pin on the PCM that can be adapted to run fan #1 on at 180 degrees, then fan #2 at 190 degrees. Or what they suggest as best. The OEM temp sensor & PCM will provide the most reliable control as they supply ground to the relay.

Many sneak a fan switch under the dash somewhere that will supply ground to run both fans if your in a parade on a hot day. Just saying. Let us know how it goes on you 65 built.

I will mention that my first vehicle was a Red 65 short be C10 from a construction company. It was born with 2 on the tree with a massive 283 V8 and I think I paid $200 for it. Lasted for almost 4 years until I was late to my first class in high school my senior year that started at 9AM, I am working in a field with a 4X4 John Deere from 3AM til class, driving out of the field I crossed a rock bottom creek to get to the gravel road and bottomed out. Lost oil from fresh oil pan hole and found out 3 miles later when the oil light came on, right after the engine locked up. I never knew what happen to that truck.
They used it to carry diesel fuel and waste oil from the large equipment in the field. The wood flooring was soaked with both and would never rot.

I saw it be accident one day parked in one of hundreds of abandoned gas stations in the early 70's because of the Arab oil embargo. One of the first shops I work in, I helped the guy built the floor. He purchased the single post hoist from a gas station being torn down and spent $100 for it.

[Pontitruck]

http://www.entropyrad.com/1963-1966-...-radiator.html

[LH Lead-Foot]

I have seen the $1,000 radiators out there made in the U.S.A. That's fine if you can afford it. This one offer, is top to bottom flow without any indication of reduction of flow, but good option. I have never figured out how they measure the radiator to HP.

For decades now, one item not often spoke of is electrolysis. With any brand of coolant passing thru different metals, from aluminum, iron, brass or copper in some cases, just to avoid issue of erosion due to electrical charges created, supply a grounding strap to the heater core. This will reduce or eliminate holes in the metal of different metals.

If you have ever seen the stern drive or outboard on a boat, they use sacrificial anodes that are cast with magnesium, zinc of both. The extra electrons in the outer shell attract stray electrical activity and are consumed, protecting the aluminum casting. In an automotive system, grounding the coolant system at the heater core is normal with the older copper types. This is often overlooked.

[bigmoe]

I always run a ground strap from the rad support to the frame. Probably overkill but I put on a lot of ground straps. In all my searching recently one of the manufacturers told how to test your coolant to see if there was any current. Also somewhere I saw a sacrificial anode that you can screw in place of your draincock.


I had mentioned probably going with the Griffin cross flow but it's a toss up between that and an RND Fabrication rad. More of a bolt in replacement. Sparky is a forum sponsor and he says he's done lots of downflows with the inlet and outlet on the passenger side. He also adds a steam port fitting at no extra cost.

[LH Lead-Foot]

Well, I agree with using grounds. I worked on imports at a few small shops where they had a techs for the big three. They use grounds every where.

Congratulations, as you post information shows you have doing research every where you can get eyeballs on it. This is call "Best Practices" and will not let you down. I can say with your attention to product, asking good questions, will result in a proper build.

Anything that drop in place as designed take a lot of the headaches out of a build. They industry is driven by fuel economy and reducing weight with plastic and aluminum. Although a brass radiator will last much longer that an all aluminum one, they still have a valid place in the hot rod market.

Keep up informed. As far as down flow radiators, they worked for manufactures for years, but we all know that higher compression and type of use, produces heat. While crossflow radiators are the normal for years, the 2 or 3 pass is exactly what OEM's are using in the A/C condenser since 2000 for GM. Plus extruded tubing to expel latent heat with the use of R143a. So, using this idea in a radiator would be the aftermarket catching up, then applying it in a high performance radiator. It's just the price is crazy...

My wallet refuses to open at the site of such a price, but I am no longer bringing home 2K after taxes per week anymore.

Below, is GM's R143a condenser evolution to current. I cut one open for tech seminar. You can't flush that one, but you can't beat it's heat transfer either.

Best of luck.

[verdell]

I would seriously think twice about the Griffin. I bought a "heavy duty" super cooling unit from them that lasted 2-3 years tops before it started coming apart and leaking. I paid pretty good for it too because I wanted a really good radiator. I've read good things about Be Cool's "Boneyard Series" LS swap radiator. They offer the inlet and outlet in the configuration you're looking for also. I hope to have one in a little while myself.

[bigmoe]

Originally Posted by verdell

I've read good things about Be Cool's "Boneyard Series" LS swap radiator. They offer the inlet and outlet in the configuration you're looking for also. I hope to have one in a little while myself.

Verdell the Be Cool Bone Yard series look very interesting but it looks like they don't have transmission coolers.