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03-22-2019, 10:49 AM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Killen, Alabama USA
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Rust in rear differential
I just got this 72 4X4 frame for a build. It has been sitting outside for a while. I pulled the inspection plate to make sure it had a posi in it that was listed on the SPID. When I pried the cover off, about a cup of water came out, then oil! Looks like the bottom side of the carrier and ring gear sat in water for some time. Gear doesn't look pitted too bad. Does this look to far gone to run like it is? What's the best way to clean all this out without a complete tear down. Pictured is the worst side, other side looks OK. Thanks for any help.
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72 Cheyenne Super swb. Factory 402/400,tach,posi,AM/FM, A/C. Adding cruise, 8-track 72 Cheyenne Super swb. 350/350 A/C, bucket seats 72 Cheyenne swb. Factory 402/400, tilt, posi, A/C 72 Cheyenne Super K-10. 350/4 spd., posi. 72 Suburban 350/350 tilt, tach, AM/FM, A/C, luggage rack 72 GMC Sierra lwb. 350/350, A/C. medium green/olive interior |
03-22-2019, 10:56 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Trenton,Ontario & South Carolina
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Re: Rust in rear differential
When I tore mine apart it looked like that, I did not run it, if you do,it will not last long,looks like a total rebuild is in order,cleaning and putting oil in it will NOT help it, ring gear is pitted,bearing are gonna be trashed,check out a reputible rebuilder,and get a price,might be cheaper to find another rear end,sorry.Just my 3 cents
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03-22-2019, 03:29 PM | #3 |
All about them K’s
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: Land of Entrapment
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Re: Rust in rear differential
What do the bearings look like? I’ve run worse looking gears than that for sure.
Edit: I guess I should be more clear and say that I cleaned up the rust before running it, not just throw oil in it and let it eat. I was talking about the pitting in the mesh surfaces being worse.
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Tyler '57 3100 http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=813888 '72 K20 Cheyenne: 5” lift, 35’s, front dana 60 blah blah blah… http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=662879 ‘69 K10 SWB: 4” lift 33”s… in a million pieces http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=805206 '98 Silverado LT K2500HD ECLB Vortec 454/4l80E: 6" lift 35x12.5x20’s Last edited by 57taskforce; 03-24-2019 at 03:10 PM. |
03-22-2019, 04:27 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Ark City, Kansas
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Re: Rust in rear differential
Anything is possible, but post 2 is best advice...
If you have at least an inkling of trying to run it, you really need to pull the carrier from the housing. Make sure you keep the caps and shims seperated to put back in same sides... The bearings (post 3) are what you need to be most concerned about....and the pinion bearings,and of course axle bearings... If you had a way of setting just the rusted part of the gear in some CLR, or toilet bowl cleaner to get that rusty crud off, THEN you would know how good your gear really is...or not... Then there's the question...is the inside of the axle housing in same condition??? |
03-23-2019, 07:18 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mt Airy, MD
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Re: Rust in rear differential
The No-Spin may be fine. Disassemble and inspect. If it's not usable they are still good for parts. I need one good for a few parts myself.
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"BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~ Last edited by special-K; 03-24-2019 at 02:21 PM. |
03-23-2019, 07:48 AM | #6 |
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Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: Killen, Alabama USA
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Re: Rust in rear differential
Thanks for the input so far. I’m thinking the bearings should be OK since the water was in the very bottom of the chunk. It’s like the ring gear and part of the carrier was dipped down into the water, but the water level was not high enough to get in the bearings.
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72 Cheyenne Super swb. Factory 402/400,tach,posi,AM/FM, A/C. Adding cruise, 8-track 72 Cheyenne Super swb. 350/350 A/C, bucket seats 72 Cheyenne swb. Factory 402/400, tilt, posi, A/C 72 Cheyenne Super K-10. 350/4 spd., posi. 72 Suburban 350/350 tilt, tach, AM/FM, A/C, luggage rack 72 GMC Sierra lwb. 350/350, A/C. medium green/olive interior |
03-23-2019, 08:19 AM | #7 |
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Gods country East,Tn
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Re: Rust in rear differential
That looks like it's seen it's share of mudding and left to sit ? It needs a total rebuild . Anything short of that and it will fail .That's some pretty heavy rust scale so theres no quick cheap fix on that one .
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1967 Factory short bed - Old school '71 - 350 / 4bolt / 487 heads / Edelbrock C3BX Muncie M-22 4 speed / Hurst Comp plus Factory 12 bolt posi 3.73 / 255-70-15 Smoothed firewall / Factory cowl induction Power disc brakes / power steering / 3.5-5" drop |
03-23-2019, 08:23 AM | #8 |
Six in a row makes it go...
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Vacationland: Maine
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Re: Rust in rear differential
You might - might - get away with a lot of flushing if you want to avoid any teardown. I would:
- use a scotch brite pad and smooth the rust on the gear contact surfaces as much as possible; - spray it down liberally with carb clean or wd-40 or something. Several cans; - clean all the crud out of the bottom of the housing; - rotate the pinion down, fill with 10-weight oil (ATF, MMO, air tool oil) and rotate by hand; - drain and remove crud; - put cover and gasket on, fill with 10-weight and spin as fast as you can for a while; - drain and remove crud; - fill with gear lube, run lightly in truck for 100 miles; - drain and remove crud; - repeat with increased miles each time. Lotsa work and it will depend on how much crud went through the bearings and what it did. Background: I messed with a lot of helicopter gearboxes for a lot of years and saw some gear distress get better and some continue. This is a crap shoot...
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03-23-2019, 02:20 PM | #9 |
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Re: Rust in rear differential
PYou have two options clean it up as best as possible without disassembly or full tear down and repair. Once you start tearing it apart there is no good way to reassemble with it half cleaned up. Wipe it down and flush it out replace the cover and run it 50 or so miles and repeat as necessary until the oil looks good when you drain it.
Be aware that it is on borrowed time. I wouldn't take off cross country with it unless I had a spare axle in the bed and the tools needed to swap it. I would never do this with a Ford 9" as there is no C-clip to keep the axle in the housing when the wheel bearing fails.
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03-24-2019, 09:40 AM | #10 |
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Re: Rust in rear differential
Agreed. If you think about it, the minute you start running that axle, it's going to start dropping small rust particles in the oil. Once that happens those rust particles are going to chew up your bearings pretty quick. Bite the bullet and either get it rebuilt, or source a different axle for the truck.
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