Rag joint replacement with ujoint shaft, who’s done it?

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I just finished swapping in a Jeep/Cherokee XJ u-joint shaft in place of my 2wd duallys rag-joint shaft. I purchased a new part for the swap from Summit Racing (Crown Automotive Steering Shafts; p/n 4713943) for $112 out the door.

Any mods required? Thanks for the tip!

Also, is the anti-vibration piece a rag joint? Any close up pictures? All of them on the Internet look like a silhouette and don't show much detail.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Any mods required? Thanks for the tip!

Also, is the anti-vibration piece a rag joint? Any close up pictures? All of them on the Internet look like a silhouette and don't show much detail.

I added my experience to this thread. I came in around the 2nd page (post #26).....
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=505196

The 'anti-vibration' part (of the column end of the joint) basically looks like the shaft is inserted into a rubber sleeve that goes between it & the u-joint:

[MikeB]

Scoti -- Nice write-up on the other thread! Sounds like a lot of mods to do it right.

After reading another post on that same thread (I think), I just ordered a $16 Borgeson rag joint kit. And if I don't like that, then I'll get their 000935 shaft with dual u-joints.

Can't say my rag joint is toast, but it doesn't take much for it to hit the travel limiter pins. The truck wanders just a bit with around 1 degree caster, which is all the alignment guy could get while keeping camber in specs. So I will start with the rag joint and move on as necessary.

Sure would like to have my box modified by AGR. Installed one a few years ago on a friend's 66 truck (with adapter bracket and Ididit coulumn). It made a huge difference -- quicker, but stiff on-center due to larger torsion bar. Almost like driving a new sports sedan!

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Scoti -- Nice write-up on the other thread! Sounds like a lot of mods to do it right.

After reading another post on that same thread (I think), I just ordered a $16 Borgeson rag joint kit. And if I don't like that, then I'll get their 000935 shaft with dual u-joints.

Can't say my rag joint is toast, but it doesn't take much for it to hit the travel limiter pins. The truck wanders just a bit with around 1 degree caster, which is all the alignment guy could get while keeping camber in specs. So I will start with the rag joint and move on as necessary.

Sure would like to have my box modified by AGR. Installed one a few years ago on a friend's 66 truck (with adapter bracket and Ididit coulumn). It made a huge difference -- quicker, but stiff on-center due to larger torsion bar. Almost like driving a new sports sedan!

It really wasn't that much effort.

Locating the donor was the first issue. After doing the used parts thing before, I skipped to the new/aftermarket search to compare costs first vs. a used unit. No brainer there once I found the Crown Automotive stuff. I provided the p/n so that should help the next guy & speed that up.

You have to heat the binding agent out to get the shaft assembly to the correct length. 3-4 mins w/a hand bottle Mapp torch & it was out. Reassembly can be done immediately but I don't like black oxide fasteners because they rust & I was having issues w/the SS replacements I sourced. It was the multiple trips to my local fastener spot (Elliot's Hardware) that slowed things as well as my unknown on whether the two halves even "needed" the binding-agent.

Time will tell in the long run but it's easily serviced now so I don't anticipate any problems if I feel the need to make any adjustment.

[Greenlee]

I just did mine yesterday. I bought a used Jeep XJ shaft off eBay. Wish I had known I could get a new one for only $112, but the used one seems fine! I didn’t take the shaft all the way apart. I just heated it up enough to get it to the length it needed to be. I collapsed it until it was about a half inch short and bolted in the top side to the column. Then I heated it again and pulled it out enough to attach to the steering box. I test drove it on the freeway and the steering definitely feels tighter.

My steering was pretty tight to begin with until a few weeks ago when my power steering pump went out. I think wrestling with trying to steer it without power steering must have killed the rag joint.

[Greenlee]

After I got it all back together I noticed another problem. The lower bearing or bushing on the steering column just above where the steering shaft bolts up is wore out. You can wiggle the shaft back and forth. You can see what I’m talking about in this pic.

[Greenlee]

I just ordered the kit to repair the column. I had trouble finding it at first, but then found this one at Summit. It says it’s for a Jeep, but in the comments it says it fits a square body. Hopefully, I’ll have it in a few days and can get it put in over the weekend.

[drmatera]

Originally Posted by Greenlee

I just ordered the kit to repair the column. I had trouble finding it at first, but then found this one at Summit. It says it’s for a Jeep, but in the comments it says it fits a square body. Hopefully, I’ll have it in a few days and can get it put in over the weekend.

Thanks, filed for future reference

[rgunlock]

I will be interested to know whether that column kit works for you Greenlee. I also had a lot of trouble finding the parts. As I recall, I ended up getting the bearing from a place that specialized in Cadillac parts and the rubber boot was supposed to be for a Jeep I believe. The bearing worked but the boot I got doesn't really fit right.

[Greenlee]

That part fit fine. Getting the old one off was a *****! I had to cut it in several places with a die grinder and peel it off.

[SCOTI]

Greenlee,

Did you have a lot of play or just notice it while in there working w/the shaft swap?

[Greenlee]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Greenlee,

Did you have a lot of play or just notice it while in there working w/the shaft swap?

No. I just noticed it when I was doing the shaft swap. Getting rid of the rag joint got rid of most of the slop in the steering.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Greenlee

No. I just noticed it when I was doing the shaft swap. Getting rid of the rag joint got rid of most of the play in the steering.

Gotcha. Guess I'll double check & verify mine looks ok based on your situation.

[1774btcrew]

I have used crown lower bearings quite a few times on columns that I have rebuilt. I have found that the bearing and plastic bushing fit great but most times I end up using the stock metal pieces off the GM columns as they seem to fit better.