Anyone here swapped or reversed the centers on steel wheels themselves?

[Slowguy]

I know “green Gus” did it but I assume he’s no longer an active member since he sold his truck a while ago. I grinned down the welds but it just won’t seem to let go? Do I need to grind/cut through to the inside of the wheel? I hate doing that because it seems like I could cause an issue with the integrity of the wheel.

[randy500]

I used to do it all the time on 8” ralleys you just gave to make sure you get all the weld, if you miss a spot it wont let loose. I used a thin cutoff wheel on an angle grinder just inside of where it was welded. I tuned the centers thinner when finished to move the center inward as much as possible making them look like 10” wide wheels.
Use a large hammer and a brass drift to knock the center loose.

[Slowguy]

Ok. I’ll just work at it a bit more. Seems to take forever. That’s what I figured-the weld is still holding on, but geez; keep thinking it’s all gone and then pound a bit more and nothing. I fret about taking too much off. Afraid I’ll go all the way through or otherwise damage the wheel.

[Ziegelsteinfaust]

I did it once to rear rims out of desperation.

Besides carefully grinding.

Build a really flat table, and I used a wood block cut to my back spacing desires. Then I tacked it in on all 4 sections. Then measured many times to verify depth.

[randy500]

I usually did get some grooves in the rim, just welded them up and ground flat again.
I think i might have put them in my press too trying to bust them loose.

[RustyPile]

Originally Posted by Slowguy

Ok. I’ll just work at it a bit more. Seems to take forever. That’s what I figured-the weld is still holding on, but geez; keep thinking it’s all gone and then pound a bit more and nothing. I fret about taking too much off. Afraid I’ll go all the way through or otherwise damage the wheel.

Make a welding jig from a spindle and hub.. Clamp the spindle to a welding table and bolt the rim to the hub.. Tack weld the rim in 1 spot.. Using a dial indicator, rotate the rim checking for run-out (wobble).. Using a small hammer, do your best to remove all the wobble and run-out.. Tack weld another spot and tap out the run-out.. Wash, rinse, tumble, repeat..... Get the rim perfectly aligned, leaving no run-out or you'll have tire/rim out of balance issues that can't be fixed...

[Slowguy]

Very nice idea. I have all that, so I will set it up to check the run out. I mean, if I can ever get it to break free in the first place!

[special-K]

Even with all the welds cleaned up the center to wheel fit is really snug. Takes a bit of elbow grease to move the center

[Slowguy]

I’m just about to call it quits and order some 20” Detroit steel instead. What would be nice is if the wheel actually fit in my shop press. Maybe I can rig something up.

[randy500]

Post some pictures...
Are you sure there arent nay spot welds. Some wheels have them but i tink no bead welds when welded that way.

I dont know if it was the first set i did or not but i almost gave up once too, it can be frustrating. And the center is a press fit even before welding.

[randy500]

And there is little chance of bending the center with a 5-10 pound sledge, they are very springy.

[randy500]

Do you have an air hammer you could use to get it moving?

[Slowguy]

Yeah. That was a concern also-hitting with enough force to damage or bend the center section. I’ll see if I can get a few pics tomorrow

[Slowguy]

I went in to a local machine shop because I just got tired of beating and pounding hoping it would break free. I thought about putting it on my 20 ton mechanical press but just a bit too wide to fit.

Decided to bring it in to a local machine shop. Just two guys there, and if you catch them in the right mood they'll work with you and let you observe. He was in a good mood tonight. He put it on his 80 ton electro-hydraulic press. First weld gave up pretty easy. The other three didn't want to let go and he was afraid it might bend the wheel. I told him I read on here that randy said they are fairly springy and could take a bit of press. He told me, "ok, this is on you. this press can completely flatten that wheel to look like a pancake".

So he work on each one giving little nudges each time (by little we are talking tons of force), and with a BANG each little remaining weld gave out. Even after it started moving, once he got it the center to pop out of the rim, that made the loudest bang because of the press fit.

I'll know how true it is when i get it on a spindle. Fingers crossed. If it is still true and round, I can get to cleaning it up ready to set the center (reversed) and truing it up with the dial indicator. Thanks for the suggestion guys! your input really helped me out.

[randy500]

Good you got them out and i hope they didn't get bent.
I trued mine up on a wheel balancer but you could also spin them on the vehicle front axle with a dial indicator.

Next time you cut a set out, cut it placing the cut off wheel just past the weld, what happened is in some areas the weld had more penetration so you need to cut away from that so your sure its cut all the way. You will nick the wheel a bit and that can be sanded out or welded and sanded out.

[Slowguy]

Wow. Very very tight going back in. Not centered yet, but can I stop the center basically flush with the edge of the rim? Thus providing most backspacing possible?