Bleeding new brake system.

[Mike_The_Grad]

Hey all, I'm prepping to fill up and bleed the brake system on my dads 1964 c10. I installed brand new single pot master cylinder(bench bled til no more bubbles, flat,tilted,inverted,etc.) Brand new brake hard lines,brand new brake rubber lines, and all 4 brand new wheel cylinders. System is drums all around. I have everything in place. The last connection is the line to the master cylinder. How do I go about filling and bleeding? Do I make the last connection and crack the left rear bleeder and have someone pump SLOWLY until I get fluid? Obviously making sure that the reservoir doesnt go dry. Then proceed to bleed in the normal process(RR,RF,LF)? All the while chasing leaks and tightening up the connections with flare wrenches? If this sounds like a good approach or am I missing a step I'm all ears. Thanks in advance.

[The Rocknrod]

Sounds good.
I did a gravity bleed first, but either way will work.

[Steeveedee]

On a single reservoir system, I usually just open a bleeder or both in the back and let the fluid run down to them. Just leave the cap loose so that there isn't a "suction". No pumping needed, unless you are in a hurry. Just add fluid as needed. I even do that on my '70 truck, but with a dual reservoir. Once you get fluid to the rears, do the same in the front. Then you can have someone step on the pedal and you can chase any leaks. With all new lines, it should gravity bleed just fine. You might have to tap the wheel cylinders with a rubber mallet to get all the bubbles out.

[Mike_The_Grad]

Well I started out just how i described in my first post. I got alot of air bubbles and eventually fluid out of the left rear wheel cylinder, so I switched to the right rear. Again, I got a lot of air bubbles then a steady stream. All the while maintaining MC level. But when i went to the front bleeders I ran into trouble. It seems I dont have a wrench to fit into the tight area that the front bleeders are located. The front bleeders are right up next to the spindle. A flare wrench wont fit. I even ground down the 10 MM open end wrench I was using on the rears but that didnt make a difference. In fact it seems I need a 9MM open end wrench for the front bleeders. A 8MM is to small, 10MM to big, 3/8" is a struggle to make it fit and when I do, I have no leverage on the wrench because of the brake backing plate, brake hose, upper control arm, and tire. I'm contemplating doing a "rough job" of bleeding the brakes and coasting/down shifting (sm420 w/granny low gear) to my mechanic which is literally .9 miles from my house. Straight road, no stop signs,no signal lights, and slightly downhill. If I have my dad in the truck driving/coasting in 1st, me behind him in my truck with hazards on at say 10-11 p.m. at night(practically no one on the road) I think we can manage to make it and have the mechanic pressure bleed the system. He pressure bled the system on my 72 c10 with disc/drum brakes for $35. The brake warning light tripped right after I established a good pedal and pulled into the alley behind my house which immediately tripped the brake warning light in the dash and I had almost no pedal. I made the same trip I speak of around 10 a.m. with my step mom following behind in her car and I managed to make it. My dad says towing it is out of question.(why? I dont know. I have AAA.) Anybody know of any tips or tricks for getting access to the front drum bleed screws on 1964 c10? Heres a couple of pictures.

[Captainfab]

Can you get a thin walled socket on them to get them broke loose and then use an open end wrench during the bleeding process?

[BabyBlue64]

I had the same problem a few years ago when I did my breaks. Then I saw that my old brake cylinders had longer bleeders. So I put the old bleeders in my new cylinders and had more space to use an open wrench (just enough).

[rpmerf]

I have a harbor freight wrench that has been bent and grinded for this purpose.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by BabyBlue64

I had the same problem a few years ago when I did my breaks. Then I saw that my old brake cylinders had longer bleeders. So I put the old bleeders in my new cylinders and had more space to use an open wrench (just enough).

^ Here's your answer, Mike! You should be able to buy tall bleeders. Have the mechanic put them in when he bleeds the fronts, if you still can't get them out.

[jayoldschool]

Use the old bleeders. Crack them loose with a 3/8 deep 1/4" socket. Use a small 3/8 open end wrench on a bit of an angle when bleeding.

With all the new hardware... why didn't you convert to a dual master?

[Mike_The_Grad]

Thanks to all you guys for your input. I'm just now revisiting this thread. And you guys are awesome because I was just researching brake bleeder screws in an attempt to find longer style bleeders. I highly doubt I have my old wheel cylinders. (Another great argument on why you shouldn't throw away your old parts immediately after replacing them. Which is a hard sell to my dad. "Get this trash outta here...") I will search around for them, I might get lucky.
A thin walled socket "might" squeeze in there. And I was contemplating cracking them loose with my ratchet and switching to the open end wrench. But I didnt want to end up in a position of being unable to fully shut the bleeder valve in time and have air manage to find a way back into the system. The factory service manual shows a tool that resembles a thin walled socket that's open all the way through with a long handle attached to it. And it even says in the manual to heat and bend the tools handle to a 45° angle in order to access the front bleeders. If I only had a mig welder I wouldn't even have created this thread. I could just drill out a socket and weld a piece of all thread rod to the side. Boom. Done. Oh well, I made it this long without a welder and I'm finding it more and more frustrating as time goes on without one. Lol. I'm thinking I might be able to get out my oxy/acetylene torch and heat and bend an open end wrench. Thanks for the different suggestions. I'm sure i will get it. The post about me taking it to the mechanic was because i was tired and frustrated. And just wanna be done with the project. It's almost there. I cant give up now.

[geezer#99]

You just need a set of nutrunners Mike. Some call them nut drivers. They are thin wall.
I have several sets. Some with a 1/4 inch drive fitting in the top of the handle so you can use a 1/4 inch ratchet or t-handle if you need more leverage.
Some like these.

https://www.amazon.ca/Craftsman-8388...56139173&psc=1

[Mike_The_Grad]

I was able to use a socket and ratchet to break the front bleeders loose at first then switch to a box end wrench for the bleeding. Without the socket first to break them free, I doubt I would have been able to with just the box end wrench, they were pretty tight from the factory. I got my oxy/acetylene torch setup this morning to heat up the box end wrench and bend it at about a 45° angle. Worked out great except that the box end wrench was just slightly too big for the bleeder. I had to be careful not to round off the bleeder. All things considered, I was able to bleed the remaining 2 front bleeders and got steady clear streams of fluid out of each. Now we just need to get the drums adjusted a little better. Pedal has some travel before it gets pressurized. So we are still going to take it to the mechanic and have him pressure bleed the system adjust the shoes and the parking brake assembly. Be done with it. Thanks for all the tips and suggestions. Much appreciated.