Pitman arm hitting sway bar

[66_c10_tpi]

I have finally got around to installing my CPP 1 1/4" sway bar while rebuilding the from suspension. I temporarily assembled the front suspension without the springs so I could check full travel. The truck is equipped with power steering. When the suspension is fully compressed the pitman arm and idler arm hits the sway bar before reaching the stops. Even without the spacer the arm still hits. Moving the bar forward and with a bracket to attach the bar still hits. I don't like how the sway bar end links would mount without any kind of spacers. The only option I see is to find a different bump stop. Any ideas?

[jayoldschool]

Perhaps the right choice would be the 70s style truck bar that doesn't use the end links like that one.

[The Rocknrod]

Try removing the lower bushing on the end of the sway bar in the second pic.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Try removing the lower bushing on the end of the sway bar in the second pic.

I agree. Lower the bar below the pitman arm.
This isn't mine, but it shows the bar most of us use.

[forestb]

can you flip the L bracket over? Or adjust the angle of the steering box?

[jayoldschool]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

I agree. Lower the bar below the pitman arm.
This isn't mine, but it shows the bar most of us use.

That was the point of my post. It is a different bar (and mounting system).

[66_c10_tpi]

Originally Posted by jayoldschool

That was the point of my post. It is a different bar (and mounting system).

I would love to use this type of sway bar. But finding one is going to be hard in my area. I have checked the pull your parts in my area and no one has one. Most of the trucks here are 4 wheel drive. Plus my control arms are off a 64 truck. They were not drilled for the sway bar so installing later would be difficult.

[66_c10_tpi]

Originally Posted by forestb

can you flip the L bracket over? Or adjust the angle of the steering box?

I don't think adjusting the steering box would be a good option plus the idler arm is also hitting. Flipping the L bracket over would put all of the load on the bolts. The way it is placed now the lower edge puts the downward force on the lip of the control arm plus the bolts. But thanks for the ideas.

[66_c10_tpi]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Try removing the lower bushing on the end of the sway bar in the second pic.

I will see tomorrow if this will clear the pitman and idler arms.

[The Rocknrod]

What do the brackets look like that are mounted to the frame in front? Are they the tall or short ones?
I can't tell if it's mounted close to the frame or not, may make a difference?

[lolife99]

Do you have and pics from the front of the truck?
Some times the center link gets installed backwards.

[66_c10_tpi]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

What do the brackets look like that are mounted to the frame in front? Are they the tall or short ones?
I can't tell if it's mounted close to the frame or not, may make a difference?

They are the tall ones.

[66_c10_tpi]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Try removing the lower bushing on the end of the sway bar in the second pic.

This what it looks like after removing the lower bushing. It would clear by about a 1/4".

[The Rocknrod]

You know what 1/4" is?

[forestb]

I do.

You might want to add some of those mettle cups back in so that those bushings don't get torn up. It might add some unwanted width but you will get more clearance once you tighten down the bolts.

[The Rocknrod]

Ya at least on the top one. Looks like your hitting the bump stop and still have 1/4".

[66_c10_tpi]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

Ya at least on the top one. Looks like your hitting the bump stop and still have 1/4".

I would put one on the top and on the bottom. I knew that one on the top would have no effect on the clearance. My only concern on doing it this way is that through the motion of the control arm up and down. The bushings would have no room to flex.