cab mount bolts

[Nukes16]

Can someone help me out quickly, are there nuts on the other end of the cab mount bolts, and if so, how can you get at them. I'm guessing that there are just welded on nuts on the inside, but mine seem to be really on there and are not turning that well. So I stopped spinning them to check.
Thanks in advance.

[HumbleChevyBuddy]

There are only removable nuts on the core support body mounts. The cab mounts have weld-in nuts, since the only hardware to remove when changing the bushing is the bolt that goes in from the ground up towards the cab. I hope this helps.

[Stitch]

there are welded nuts up inside the body...if the bolts are spinning and not coming loose, then the nuts have come loose...you'll need to cut holes in the cab floor about the bolt inside and get something in there to hold the nut.

[swamp rat]

Not trying to hyjack the thread but i could use some advice on this subject..

Are the welded nuts accessable for a little PB Blaster spray without having to pull the seat and carpet? In other words i'm assuming the bolts don't protrude into the cab correct? sounds like it from your posts. I have the mounts and wanna start my swap soon but want to saturate the bolts for a day or two first.

Also, is it recomended to lift the cab and front fenders as 1 unit? I don't want to damage any body parts. do i need to loosen the steering joint? all i have to work with is a large and a smaller floor jack and a couple other bottle jacks.

Thanks!

[Stitch]

You can't see or access the nuts or bolts from the inside without drilling holes in the cab floor. I don't think it's possible to get any PB Blaster on the joint between the nut and bolt.

Also I think it would be alot better to take the front end off the truck first.
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[canadian trucker]

You have to cut holes in the cab floor and the sill behind the seat.
Wish there was an easier way

[swamp rat]

Forgot to ask, my cab mounts didn't come with bolts, i'm assuming Grade 5 would be ok?? Or should i get Grade 8?

[swamp rat]

I thought about it, didn't want to gut the interior, was looking at the rear support and noted that there are some 3/8 holes, so i figured what could a couple little 1/8 holes angled upward hurt? so i drilled them and sprayed a bunch of Deep Creep inside, i was able to follow the bolt up to the nut with the red plactic spray tip, i figure i could allways weld the hole shut later.

Still need to know if i need to replace the mount bolts if i need grade 8 or grade 5, Thanks!

[rodstored-72]

Originally Posted by canadian trucker

You have to cut holes in the cab floor and the sill behind the seat.
Wish there was an easier way

well I am bringing this thread back up from the dead. I am in the process of replacing my cab bushings and ran into a stripped bolt on my pass. side rear cab mount - it feels as if the nut is spinning inside . I am guessing that the way to "fix" & replace the bushing is to cut a opening above the bolt location inside the cab (as indicated above) & then after repair and bushing replacement weld up the repair opening?

thoughts??

[Mattchu60]

Yes, that's the only solution. I had a rear nut break loose on my C10 cab. had to use a large hole saw to cut a hole inside the cab above the nut and then find something to hold the nut with.

[rodstored-72]

mattchu60, yea..I was thinking that would be the solution in my build thread a member mentioned that the hole saw plug could be re-welded or a plastic/rubber plug to fit the hole as well....

thanks!!

[Pontiac1976]

Forgot to ask, my cab mounts didn't come with bolts, i'm assuming Grade 5 would be ok?? Or should i get Grade 8?

8 Grade body to frame bolts because that holding you to the frame

[rodstored-72]

Originally Posted by Pontiac1976

8 Grade body to frame bolts because that holding you to the frame

Agree I would replace... I will for this repair... with grade 8 bolts & etc. it is a cheap safety measure!..

[85square]

I had to cut all 4 holes in my cab, two in the front, two in the back. I bought a cab and the previous owner cut the mounting bolts leaving just studs about 2" in length out of the mounts. It was a pain in the butt but not terrible. I replaced the hardware with good grade 8 stuff. I haven't gotten around to patching the holes back up but i think I'm going to just plug them with something rather than weld them back up in case i ever have to get to them again.

[franken]

I suppose it's a little late now but I tighten the bolts a bit, then back them off a little, tighten, loosen, repeat until they come out. It doesn't always work, but it's better to take some time rather than just spinning the nuts.
Wood bed strip bolts? Tighten until they shear off...

[rodstored-72]

Originally Posted by franken

I suppose it's a little late now but I tighten the bolts a bit, then back them off a little, tighten, loosen, repeat until they come out. It doesn't always work, but it's better to take some time rather than just spinning the nuts.
Wood bed strip bolts? Tighten until they shear off...

I tried this as I did it, but it was to nooo avail! lol.... it can work like said... sometimes...