55.2-59 camaro clip crooked?

[56 3100]

hi raven dont take this wrong by any means. can you elaborate about why you think the frame drawing would be tough? i used pointer from body mount rivet points in drawing and very little to no variation even when cross measuring

[dsraven]

Hey, no prob.
What I meant was the cross dimension check on the stock frame section could be tougher than normal because the front was lopped off so you gotta find/lock some different spots to first establish the stock part is straight and square, then pick some symmetrical points on the welded on clip and do more cross dimensional checks to make sure the clip is parallel to the old frame. It's all just arithmetic but if working off the drawing to figure out where the cab face is, rad support, bumper mounts etc then you have to find the right dimension points in the drawing and combine those because there isn't a direct number in the drawing for some dimensions that you need. Drawing is good, just not terribly straight forward.

[dsraven]

I assumed your next step after the crisis checking would be to find your other points for body mounts, their dimension from the cab face. The bumper mounts or end of frame dimension plus width, the axle centerline, the horizontal drop from the main frame to the rad support and bumper mounts. Stuff like that. The trammel works great to set a dimension but first you gotta do some figuring. I usually make a sheet of figures to work from so I can quick reference.

[56 3100]

yes lots more measuring today.

[dsraven]

looking at the pics you have posted I would say once you get the frame checks done you may want to think about a stout trans cross member to keep the frame rails from springing between the cab mounts. the old original cross member was pretty stout and also held the weight of the engine and trans since the engine was mounted at the front and then the bellhousing sat on the cross member leaving the trans hanging behind that. the original bellhousing, even for a v8 truck, was cast iron. possibly extend some frame boxing behind the welded on clip for strength and also to keep the frame from stress cracking at the welds where the clip goes from a fully boxed section to a channel section on the original frame. kinda hard to tell from the pics but it looks like that has been done on the pass side? keep in mind the issues this may make if you plan on a frame mounted brake booster. it seems like that frame transition area would be the weak link if there were to be one. frame flex will be the enemy here. a short boxed area would also lend itself to bolt on mounts for the trans cross member. just a thought.
nice job on the firewall from what is visible in the pics. I don't see a firewall brake booster hole but the pics may not go up far enough to see that.

[56 3100]

hi raven yes boxing frame as you mentioned. no limit way shows using a piece of left over frame to box it behind graft. i went one step further and had nicer fitting channel sections made that were longer. my older brother is a certifed welder with pipe fitters union local 56 he will do all structural welding on frame work when i am satisfied things are correct. thanks on comments on firewall. i learned to mig weld on my own been a great asset. i am using frame mount hydroboost as i wanted clean firewall look. it clears with channel sections in place they arent welded in yet .

[56 3100]

talked to rob at no limit and he verifed what others also mentioned i wont have even gap side to side between engine and firewall. for my own sanity i cut enough tack welds on frame so i could check anti dive angle again and tons of re measuring and everything looks back on track.

[Trucker79]

I have a 56 chevy and used a camaro clip. I had to redo mine due to the fact the PO welded it in wrong and the wheelbase was wrong. Thus the engine hit the firewall. So in redoing mine I did mine the sandwich way and laid the truck frame over the camaro frame. When I measured mine I was 3/16 out of square. I read in a frame thread that OEM frames were nominal to 3/16 out. I know a lot of guys are fussy and are looking for perfect, and that's okay they should be. I looked at mine for a whole month and tried to get it dead on. I tacked it. measured. an was within the OEM spec. SO...I figure an alignment guy worth his salt can get it straight.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by Trucker79

I have a 56 chevy and used a camaro clip. I had to redo mine due to the fact the PO welded it in wrong and the wheelbase was wrong. Thus the engine hit the firewall. So in redoing mine I did mine the sandwich way and laid the truck frame over the camaro frame. When I measured mine I was 3/16 out of square. I read in a frame thread that OEM frames were nominal to 3/16 out. I know a lot of guys are fussy and are looking for perfect, and that's okay they should be. I looked at mine for a whole month and tried to get it dead on. I tacked it. measured. an was within the OEM spec. SO...I figure an alignment guy worth his salt can get it straight.

One thing you want to be sure is make those measurements by a number of different points to be SURE it's just that 3/16" out and no more. Always measure by a few different points to guarantee you are seeing the numbers you need to see.

Brian

[Trucker79]

Measured it diagonally from the front cab mount brackets to the upper control arm uprights. It is 3/16 out to the right. It stayed that way all the way thru final welding and I even checked it from control arm uprights all the way to the rear corners of the frame. It translates. I'm good with it!

[56 3100]

Hey MARTINSR i made tram gage as you have in you post worked out nice for all critical measurements . put my mind at ease!